I suggest bring it back to the dealer, I have the same year same model, my dealer did the flush and update at the first visit, nothing on second visit, and at the third visit, they replaced the TC, but to be honest, I don't feel any improvement after TC replaced, my issue was rough shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, and rough downshift when decelerating, I will go visit other dealership when I have a chance.

 

How many miles do you have now? Do you still have issue of rpm jump/jerky downshift? My used 2014 has 100k and it is doing same jerky downshift. Also, pickup at start is very very poor. Any suggestions?
I feel like ATF flush is total BS to cover underlying actual problem with mechanism of electronic function of acceleration/deceleration along with the speed of the car.

 

When you say flush did they do a 3 qt or 3x3

 

Yes, they drain and fill 3 times.

 

Btw, do you have any bump feeling when the car is down shifting? For me each time the car downshift from 4 to 3, 3 to 2, the car will lurch forward, but if I put it in N, bumpy feel is gone.

 

Well in N, it aint shifting.

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Bulletin 16-063 indicates the judder can return after the software update and if it does, flush ATF again. Still covered by 8/80k warranty.

I’d have it flushed to see if that solves it.

For mine, the judder came back about two years after the initial flush and software update. Another flush under warranty cured it. Looks like I’ll have the fluid changed every two years here on out.

 

When taking leg off the gas paddle (right @ 40 mpg), car simply feels like lowering gear ahead of time and kinda feel applying brake by itself. I called jerky in downshift. Meaning changing gear itself too quick compared to speed of the car and reduce the speed drastically. As if you put the car in 2nd gear from 5th gear at 30/40 miles speed. When turning 90 degree on street, it will slows down crazy like someone is applying slow brake instead of smooth slow down when not accelerating nor touching brake.

BTW - Do you think you had this issue from beginning and now noticing it? or do have this issue recently/lately?

 

I tried to take off my foot at 40 mph, didn't notice a downshift, just RPM dropped, but I felt the same thing when downshifting. Also, for turning, I don't feel that, only rough downshifting.

 

What exactly does this update do?

 

How many miles did you put on it since the flush / software update? The fluid needs to be changed more often I think than recommended to ensure the shudder doesn't return. I remember reading in a TSB that Acura deemed the shudder due to degraded fluid (or fluid degrading faster than expected).

 

Based on my experience with my MDX, after multiple trips to the dealer, fixes applied and analyzing its behavior, I am suspecting the issue is something to do with faulty temp control/sensor. I reason I suspect that is my car went through all the standard fixes to resolve the shudder/vibration issue, the problem still exists. Acura says it is due to VCM, I think it is something to do with torque control locking up at wrong time. For a smooth TC engagement, the vehicle should have sufficient power and speed else the shudder will occur.

The reason I suspect the temp control/sensor is based on what I observed on the other day... Most of the time my MDX goes out on short trips... I had to drive 40 miles to a school in the morning at around 6 am with temps around 70F. The MDX drove perfectly fine with no shudder/vibration issues. But on the way back with temps reading 85+F the shudder/vibration occurred at certain speeds on highway with moderate stop and go traffic.

So when the car heats up, the shudder occurs? also, I am noticing when I park my MDX in the garage even after a 5 mile trip, the garage feels too hot. My 4-cyl car(with 2 less cyl) don't seem to make the garage too hot.

All the above observations make me think that is the radiator fan not turning on causing the engine to get too hot and possibly triggering misbehavior? I don't feel the fan kicking on, typically my other car radiator fan kicks in with in a minute of standing still at a stop light.

I know all my above writeup may not make sense, I am soo confused with my MDX shudder/vibration even with/without VCM muzzler

 

All the above observations make me think that is the radiator fan not turning on causing the engine to get too hot and possibly triggering misbehavior? I don't feel the fan kicking on, typically my other car radiator fan kicks in with in a minute of standing still at a stop light.

I know all my above writeup may not make sense, I am soo confused with my MDX shudder/vibration even with/without VCM muzzler

You can easily tell of the fan is working, as it's about the loudest fan I've heard (at least in my MDX). Just pull into a drive thru after the car is really warmed up and you can hear the fan kick off and on. You could also just park and let it idle, pop the hood, and see if it's running. If the fan weren't running I'm guessing an error would get displayed from that circuit....