Hey, just wondering if anyone has replaced their ADS shocks for regular shocks due to $$$? In my case, my '07 Elite(sport) with 131,000 km's rear shocks are leaking & making a rattling sound at low speeds over bumps, but comparing the costs, cheapest being US$557 vs US$89., was curious if anyone has done it & if there's any issues?
ADS shocks to regular?
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crazy1eye
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Some people that did the conversion complained that they had a problem light come on a couple of minutes only after they turned on the sport shock mode. That implied that there is some kind of feedback going on where the MDX detects something is wrong with the shocks.
There are some instances that the MDX will automatically turn on the sport mode, which was my concern.
AC
There are some instances that the MDX will automatically turn on the sport mode, which was my concern.
AC
First sorry for my poor English. I have the same problem with my 2008 MDX Sport@Ent pack. ADS system use magnetic coils in shocks to control fluid parameters. Any type of coils can't be measured with Ohm-meter. Coils have a complex resistance with active+reactive (inductive in our case) components. Correct way to hack that circuit is using impedance (R-L) meter and emulate it with same impedance coil. In next few days I'll check the impedance of front and rear shock coils and share it here.
How did you place the 1 ohm resistor on each connector? Is it simply a case of soldering the resistor between the two 'pins' at the strut end of the wire??
I have a driver side front strut failure on my 07 Sport, am going the non-sport route on just the fronts for now as 1k per corner for ADS (with labor) is a bit steep and I doubt I'll ever notice the difference the way I drive.
I will have a perfectly working ADS passenger side strut for sale if anyone out there is interested?
I have a driver side front strut failure on my 07 Sport, am going the non-sport route on just the fronts for now as 1k per corner for ADS (with labor) is a bit steep and I doubt I'll ever notice the difference the way I drive.
I will have a perfectly working ADS passenger side strut for sale if anyone out there is interested?
Hey derek1504, I have a used driver side ADS strut assembly (not just the strut - the whole strut assembly, easy install) from my 2007 sport that was working when I did my conversion. If you want to PM me an offer you can retain your ADS system. Just a thought?
So, just to give a quick update, I had the two front ADS struts replaced this morning to non-sport versions, the car now feels MUCH better, and as a side note the slight vibration some others have also reported under heavy acceleration is gone, as is the low speed clunk. Way smoother drive.
I will live with the "Check ADS system" light for a few weeks until I get the rear shocks replaced, and then tackle the resistor fix to get rid of the warning.
I will live with the "Check ADS system" light for a few weeks until I get the rear shocks replaced, and then tackle the resistor fix to get rid of the warning.
What brand struts did you install?
I have that vibration whenever the car is going up a hill. I never put 2+2 together but it's probably the struts. 95,000 miles. Suspension feels fine under normal conditions but makes clunky sounds when I hit a pothole.
Debating whether to keep ADS or go with classic shocks.
I have that vibration whenever the car is going up a hill. I never put 2+2 together but it's probably the struts. 95,000 miles. Suspension feels fine under normal conditions but makes clunky sounds when I hit a pothole.
Debating whether to keep ADS or go with classic shocks.
Msteffe and DPE. You have both replaced front ADS struts with normal struts. Msteffe, it appears you changed out the entire front strut assembly, including springs and mounts, probably came as a unit. Is this correct?
DPE, it is unclear, but did you only swap out the struts, or did you do the same as msteffe? If only the struts, did you have to change the upper mounts or "bearings" to the normal system as well?
I have already changed my rear ADS to normal, it was a simple bolt in, no mechanical changes necessary. I am now looking to replace the front struts, thus the questions.
DPE, it is unclear, but did you only swap out the struts, or did you do the same as msteffe? If only the struts, did you have to change the upper mounts or "bearings" to the normal system as well?
I have already changed my rear ADS to normal, it was a simple bolt in, no mechanical changes necessary. I am now looking to replace the front struts, thus the questions.
Monroe struts. I had the same clunk with potholes, and when driving at low (parking speeds) the whole front of the car felt 'loose'.
Live in a flat area with no real hills, but from 0-55 under heavy acceleration there was a vibration.
My opinion on ADS - if you drive in a way that having stiffer suspension is a noticable benefit, its worth it to stick with it. If you are doing mostly highway miles, probably not.
I drive an 07, and plan on keeping it for a long while, it has 78k on it now, and I only drive about 6K a year (mostly highway).
Need to do the rear shocks soon, the rear feels spongy. Wondering if that is a DIY option???
Jim R, I did indeed replace the entire front strut assemblies. I wasn't positive that the topside parts (spring, bearing, etc.) were interchangeable with the ADS and standard struts so I did not want to take the risk. Having them lay side by side, they look pretty darn similar - same spring for sure. Getting it as an assembly made for very short work and no need for spring compressors etc. The price difference wasn't too much different between bare strut and whole assembly so once I factored in time and not having to move the springs I figured why not. Having new strut bearings gives me peace of mind too as I plan to drive for another 100K.
Rear shocks can definitely be done DIY if you do any work on cars at all. There is nothing to it - maybe an hour tops for both shocks with lots of time outs for sipping on your favorite beverage. Floor jack is handy to get bolts holes aligned otherwise you can compress the shock a bit with your hands to get the top/bottom bolts to line up.
Msteffe & JimR
Hi all, curious to know how the resistors are holding up? I'm planning on doing this conversion this weekend. Any tips you two could pass along?
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What a great thread! Just also wondering if the resistors have held up for you guys.
I am also in the same boat and was just about to drop the $$$$$ for the ADS front struts, but since I am going to have the car for another 100K (it's at 90K with a very bad front left strut), never having it in sport mode anyhow, I don't care about having normal struts on her.
I am also in the same boat and was just about to drop the $$$$$ for the ADS front struts, but since I am going to have the car for another 100K (it's at 90K with a very bad front left strut), never having it in sport mode anyhow, I don't care about having normal struts on her.
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*subscribing to thread*
My 2 ohm (10 Watt) resistors have been in place for about 9 months now, through a Calgary winter, and seem to be keeping the warning light out. Key is to solder and wrap the connections and tie wrap the resistor out of harms way, and as protected as possible. If I had to do it again, I would likely try to place it inside the vehicle.
If for some reason the Sport mode gets pressed, the light will come on after a few minutes, suggesting that the resistor is not quite mimicking the ADS damper, in sport mode.
Good luck.
Rear shocks replaced
Got my rear shocks replaced yesterday.
My Mechanic changed them to KYB shocks. Paid $120 each plus labor.
He suggested we try to cut off the top of the old Sport Shock and reconnect the cable to it. Not sure if this will trick the system. If not I got a 10w 2.2Ohm resister I will put.
Any comments.
Will let you know how it works out.
Got my rear shocks replaced yesterday.
My Mechanic changed them to KYB shocks. Paid $120 each plus labor.
He suggested we try to cut off the top of the old Sport Shock and reconnect the cable to it. Not sure if this will trick the system. If not I got a 10w 2.2Ohm resister I will put.
Any comments.
Will let you know how it works out.
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8 Posts
did this this past weekend, now looks like my fronts are clunking wtf :28::headshake
I switched to non-ADS last month. Full strut assembley's up front and rear shocks. Parts came off a 2010 MDX...cost me $500. Unfortunately my light came on the same day, even with 10 watt 2 ohm resistors installed. I'm not too worried about it because I see that some of you have had success.
For those of you who are considering the swap, I would highly recommend it simply due to the unreliability of the electronic shocks and the potential cost savings. These parts are clearly faulty. I will say that I do notice a difference in the ride. I did use my sport/comfort option daily and it was great. The sport mode was very very good. The ride is now somewhere in between the previous sport and comfort modes and I can live with it but I do miss having the option.
Oh...and Acura Canada gave me the run around for about 2 months. They offered to replace both front struts (parts and labour covered) only 3 days after I did the swap. I'm glad this headache is over.
P.S. Can anyone post a pic of the resistors they used? Thanks!
For those of you who are considering the swap, I would highly recommend it simply due to the unreliability of the electronic shocks and the potential cost savings. These parts are clearly faulty. I will say that I do notice a difference in the ride. I did use my sport/comfort option daily and it was great. The sport mode was very very good. The ride is now somewhere in between the previous sport and comfort modes and I can live with it but I do miss having the option.
Oh...and Acura Canada gave me the run around for about 2 months. They offered to replace both front struts (parts and labour covered) only 3 days after I did the swap. I'm glad this headache is over.
P.S. Can anyone post a pic of the resistors they used? Thanks!
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6 Posts
On my Sport model, I made the front strut swap over the weekend. My cliff notes:
- Front driver's side strut was creaking badly. No leaks. I could feel it through the footwell from inside the car. With the "bounce test", it was almost impossible to push down with both arms (as if it was completely seized up), while the passenger side was much easier to push down.
- I ordered the complete non-ADS strut/spring assembly from Acura. $500 shipped from a dealer, online. The reason for ordering the whole assembly is that some of the random parts are different and I didn't want to take the chances. Plus, it was all ready to bolt onto the car, right out of the box. It also would have been time and money to swap over the springs, so it was worth the extra $70 each to get everything new and already installed.
- I removed the ADS sensors from the bottom of the ADS struts, to see if there was a super slim chance of being able to plug them in and hide them somewhere, tricking the computer. As expected, they are an open circuit when removed, so they can't be used to trick the ADS system.
- Used 10w 1 Ohm ceramic resistors from Radio Shack. Plugged the ends directly into the plug, wrapped it all up in electrical tape and zip tied the wiring out of the way.They didn't have 1.6 Ohm or 2 Ohm, but these still work like a charm, so far.
- As stated before by others, the ride lands right in between comfort and sport. It doesn't have the "cloud ride" of comfort, but it isn't as stiff as the sport. I am guessing the new springs and struts will soften up a bit over time. In any case, it is great and is a ton better than a broken ADS strut.
- I never used the sport mode, so this swap was perfect in my case!
Thanks for all the insight and help on this. Cheers
- Front driver's side strut was creaking badly. No leaks. I could feel it through the footwell from inside the car. With the "bounce test", it was almost impossible to push down with both arms (as if it was completely seized up), while the passenger side was much easier to push down.
- I ordered the complete non-ADS strut/spring assembly from Acura. $500 shipped from a dealer, online. The reason for ordering the whole assembly is that some of the random parts are different and I didn't want to take the chances. Plus, it was all ready to bolt onto the car, right out of the box. It also would have been time and money to swap over the springs, so it was worth the extra $70 each to get everything new and already installed.
- I removed the ADS sensors from the bottom of the ADS struts, to see if there was a super slim chance of being able to plug them in and hide them somewhere, tricking the computer. As expected, they are an open circuit when removed, so they can't be used to trick the ADS system.
- Used 10w 1 Ohm ceramic resistors from Radio Shack. Plugged the ends directly into the plug, wrapped it all up in electrical tape and zip tied the wiring out of the way.They didn't have 1.6 Ohm or 2 Ohm, but these still work like a charm, so far.
- As stated before by others, the ride lands right in between comfort and sport. It doesn't have the "cloud ride" of comfort, but it isn't as stiff as the sport. I am guessing the new springs and struts will soften up a bit over time. In any case, it is great and is a ton better than a broken ADS strut.
- I never used the sport mode, so this swap was perfect in my case!
Thanks for all the insight and help on this. Cheers
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