Minimum thickness of the F/R pads is .06" (1/16"); if they're below that, replace. I wouldn't refinish the front or rear disks unless they look gouged or deeply scored; their min. thickness spec is 1.02" (F) and 0.35" (R). Those numbers are from the Service manual, sec. 19. My recommendation on refinishing is from personal experience, FWIW.

 

I agree: If the rotors are not scored - do not resurface.

Since you are not getting any pulsation when you apply the brakes there really is no reason to resurface the rotors.

Some mechanics will tell you that to prevent brake squeal when you change pads, you should resurface the rotors.


I do not agree.

I would save my money and just change the pads when necessary.

BTW, as to when to change pads: There are wear indicators on the brake pads. Check your owner's manual.

JeffK

 

As an ex-mechanic I was always told whenever you replace brake pads or shoes the drums or rotors must be resurfaced or cut. I've know plenty of people who do their own brakes and don't resurface unless it looked out (uneven surface) , and have had no problems with vibration or squeaks. The correct and proper is to always resurface, that's why all professional shops and dealers will always sell the brake job price with including the cost to resurface. They bascially don't want you to come back with a vibration or squeak and have to do the job over again. Remember when the rotors are removed for cutting, you will also get a lubrication on the wheel berrings if your vehicle has them. The majority of newer vehicles have the rotors slip off with no need for wheel berring lubrication. That my 2 cents on the resurfacing.

 

As an ex-mechanic I was always told whenever you replace brake pads or shoes the drums or rotors must be resurfaced or cut. I've know plenty of people who do their own brakes and don't resurface unless it looked out (uneven surface) , and have had no problems with vibration or squeaks. The correct and proper is to always resurface, that's why all professional shops and dealers will always sell the brake job price with including the cost to resurface. They bascially don't want you to come back with a vibration or squeak and have to do the job over again. Remember when the rotors are removed for cutting, you will also get a lubrication on the wheel berrings if your vehicle has them. The majority of newer vehicles have the rotors slip off with no need for wheel berring lubrication. That my 2 cents on the resurfacing.

I agree. And often if it is a good mechanic, they only do a light dressing of the rotor to take off glaze, etc. You want to ensure the most full contact area possible. A light dressing of otherwise trouble-free rotors, is not a big deal, and if you had a precision-calibrated arm, could almost do it with sandpaper. The same 'good' mechanic will also provide you with the measurements of the rotor thickness, explaining the difference.
A quality job can still be a quality job without costing a fortune.
Brakes, tires, steering, and shocks always worked great on my cars. I got to choose the mechanic that worked on my vehicles.
Dealerships vary, and charge too much, and bargain shops will hang you out to dry.