[zhouye2015]

I also considered Moog from Rockauto but after doing some research and some feedback from bobistheoilguy forum (e.g., Moog quality deteriorating over the years, just get a "regular" one not a greasable one), I bought a set from CTR (via Amazon) which is a Korean company (with a sub in California) and OEM for car mfgs. Asked their customer service some questions via email, responded quickly and actually offered to film me replacing mine if I lived close to their LA office I live in NJ so too far and they probably didn't want to film me swearing while cutting the driver side bolt ;-)

For our Subie, getting a cheap pair of Delphi ones from Rockauto as CTR didn't have one for my model / year.

Just placed a order thru Zoro for front and rear bar links, will provide feedback once I put them on.

 

[Hoster]

Just placed a order thru Zoro for front and rear bar links, will provide feedback once I put them on.

Yes please. I actually did another set for our Subaru Outback - no need to cut but completely different issues / challenges. After the MDX, I thought I could do the job in an hour but I was WRONG.....this time couldn't get the nut free / loosen completely with impact wrenches (as the bolts kept turning). Plus tightening required me to hold the bolts (CTR ones did not).

Keep us posted!!

 

[zhouye2015]

Yes please. I actually did another set for our Subaru Outback - no need to cut but completely different issues / challenges. After the MDX, I thought I could do the job in an hour but I was WRONG.....this time couldn't get the nut free / loosen completely with impact wrenches (as the bolts kept turning). Plus tightening required me to hold the bolts (CTR ones did not).

Keep us posted!!

When DIY for long enough, I have 2 sets of nut extractor. It helped me last time when replacing bar link.

 

[Hoster]

When DIY for long enough, I have 2 sets of nut extractor. It helped me last time when replacing bar link.

Yet another set of tools I must get! On a subaru forum, a rethread die was recommened to clean the threads (I just used a round wire brush on a drill). Hopefully your installation is a breeze (fingers crossed).

 

[zhouye2015]

Yet another set of tools I must get! On a subaru forum, a rethread die was recommened to clean the threads (I just used a round wire brush on a drill). Hopefully your installation is a breeze (fingers crossed).

Hi, I just replaced all 4 links today, took me an hour and half, ride seems softer than Moog(a plus to wife and kids).
The Moog I took out, were still in good shape, but the grease just kept leaking from the boot, and the end was pretty stiff, you have to push really hard to move the head, CTR is relatively soft.
To remove the bolt, I use a combo wrench to hold the moving nut in the back, if you have the OEM set, I think I was able to fit in a locking plier, but as long as you can find a way to hold the rear nut still, you can take the bolt off. Rear wheel has more room to work on, I replaced both in less than 30 mins, the lower bolt of the front is a pain, but it's doable.
Torque spec, front is 58 ft/lb, rear is 30, so I just hand tight the rear bolt, I used torque wrench for the front upper bolt, I used a breaker bar to tighten the lower bolt(no room).
No need to jack up the control arm for the bar link to fit into the hole.
Enjoy working on yours.

 

[Hoster]

Hi, I just replaced all 4 links today, took me an hour and half, ride seems softer than Moog(a plus to wife and kids).
The Moog I took out, were still in good shape, but the grease just kept leaking from the boot, and the end was pretty stiff, you have to push really hard to move the head, CTR is relatively soft.
To remove the bolt, I use a combo wrench to hold the moving nut in the back, if you have the OEM set, I think I was able to fit in a locking plier, but as long as you can find a way to hold the rear nut still, you can take the bolt off. Rear wheel has more room to work on, I replaced both in less than 30 mins, the lower bolt of the front is a pain, but it's doable.
Torque spec, front is 58 ft/lb, rear is 30, so I just hand tight the rear bolt, I used torque wrench for the front upper bolt, I used a breaker bar to tighten the lower bolt(no room).
No need to jack up the control arm for the bar link to fit into the hole.
Enjoy working on yours.

Nice!! I am leaving the rear ones alone as no noises (knock, knock). Glad to be done with our mdx and subaru OB.

 

[andremike]

Per my knowledge, sway bar links come into play only when one of the wheels on the axle moves up/down either going over bumps or during body roll. So, if you don't hear any noises going over bumps, then most likely your sway bar links are ok.

Is it hard to replace the sway bar links? I have a 2014 with 110k miles and my front end is making noises... I want to start replacing parts..

 

[zhouye2015]

Is it hard to replace the sway bar links? I have a 2014 with 110k miles and my front end is making noises... I want to start replacing parts..

It's easy, spray the PB couple times, you should be good. make sure you have the right size wrench/ wise grip to hold bolt so that you can loose the nut.

 

[andremike]

Any thoughts on replacing the sway bar links with moog or mevotech?

 

[zhouye2015]

Any thoughts on replacing the sway bar links with moog or mevotech?

It's weird that my reply didn't send out last time.. Anyway, I replaced all 4 links to Moog 3 years ago, I think some of the boots started leaking after 1.5 yrs, I ain't sure if I over pump it or it was normal wear, but when it hit 2 years, some of the boots leaks right after I pump, which means it won't hold grease anymore. I ain't say Moog is bad, when I just got it, you can tell the quality is good, heavy solid piece, when I took them out 3 yrs later, the joint was still tight. The only reason I replaced them was because I am tired of greasing them every couple months.

 

[andremike]

It's weird that my reply didn't send out last time.. Anyway, I replaced all 4 links to Moog 3 years ago, I think some of the boots started leaking after 1.5 yrs, I ain't sure if I over pump it or it was normal wear, but when it hit 2 years, some of the boots leaks right after I pump, which means it won't hold grease anymore. I ain't say Moog is bad, when I just got it, you can tell the quality is good, heavy solid piece, when I took them out 3 yrs later, the joint was still tight. The only reason I replaced them was because I am tired of greasing them every couple months.

So what brand did you use the second time? How did you know to replace them? Did you hear noises?

 

[zhouye2015]

So what brand did you use the second time? How did you know to replace them? Did you hear noises?

I went with CTR bar link, very cheap price, but the joint is more easier to move compare to Moog.
The reasons I wanted to replace the Moog are: 1, boots were leaking, and it won't hold any grease I pump in. 2, I don't want to take off all wheels to grease them every couple months.
I never heard any noises, when I took out the Moog, the joint was still hard to move(good shape), even harder than the brand new CTR bar link I got.

 

[andremike]

I am at a loss for which sway bar links to get... i don't think I want the greasable ones. So which ones do I get? There are a few options on rockauto.. recommendations please

 

[andremike]

So I replaced the sway bar links and the noise is gone..