Does anyone know if any performance parts have been released for the 2022 MDX Type S or are in the works? 
MDX Type S Performance Parts?!
Iamnotarobott
141 - 160 of 288 Posts
Joined
·
146 Posts
It is very simple. There are three wire connections that need to be made under the hood. You unplug the OEM wire and then the controller connection goes in between the wires you just unplugged, hope that makes sense to you. Then you run one wire basically just above your wheel well, into the cabin and plug it into your OBD connection. The instructions that come with it are pretty clear, but not MDX-S speciffic. I think they are TLX, but simple enough. I was pretty nervous about messing with my motor and took my time and it was 15 minutes putting it on. Could probably do it in 5 now. While there has been some debate on here about support from Burger, I feel confident that if there were any questions about installation they would be more than happy to help, as would I and proabably a host of other forum members. It is truly plug and play. The fact it can be removed so easialy with no evidence in case you need to go to the dealer is what made me pull the trigger. The wife just won't have it. Even if you don't consider mine and want to buy new, it is worth it.
I’ve been using my JB4 for a few months now. I removed it about 6 times times on/off just because of dealership visits. It’s very straightforward with removing the engine cover and plug ins. If you feel uncomfortable you can always follow their picture diagram of the engine bay plug locations as well.
thank you. I’m a little nervous about my abilities but may pull the trigger in a couple of months.
I’m assuming your happy and it’s worth the investment?
I'm no expert on how much gains it actually gives, but I felt a difference when I installed it. Anything helps in gaining something! Although, I only use the default Map 1, which I believe is the default map gains. Using '91 octane. Also I paired this recently with the PRL Air intake kit [which I leave it on during dealership visit and haven't had any warranty issues.. yet]. For the money, it's a simple install to get some sufficient gains in power increase.
2022+ Acura MDX Type-S Charge Pipe Upgrade Kit
Increase engine performance and efficiency with the #1 selling, best performing, high-flow drop-in replacement air filter upgrade from PRL Motorsports for the MDX 3.0L Turbo J30AC. Fits the 2022, 2023 Acura MDX, RHD, 10AT, Canadian and more. Replacement for 17220-6S9-A01
prlmotorsports.com
I've heard that they are working on the intercooler. I asked them the same thing when I purchased the upgraded intercooler for my wife's TLX. It will be interesting to see what they come up with since the MDX has the additional mini radiator on the passenger side (close proximity to the intercooler outlet piping) and all the resonator crap on that same piping. If you look closely down at that plastic piece on the intercooler outlet, it is super narrow (not like that on the TLX Type S).
I’d imagine it’d be a little challenge to install the intercooler and charge piping? from the videos the front end definitely has to come off it seems. I might have to find and pay a good performance shop to do the swap.
Charge pipes will not require the bumper to come off. The turbo outlet one will require you to pull the airbox for access. There is a video out there of someone pulling the front clip off of a MDX Type S. After having to do the same for a Civic 1.5T and my wife's 2022 2.0T TLX Adv (I had to trim the aluminum bumper for intercooler fitment), I would feel comfortable pulling my MDX front clip. Very similar set ups for Honda/Acura. This only "pucker factor" part for me was the clips under the headlight lenses. With the other two vehicles, I took my sweet time and protected all surfaces with body tape (and had the right plastic/rubber tools). Can PRL just get this intercooler done?! lol Has anyone seen a side by side comparison of the stock TLX Type S core vs the stock MDX Type S core? I know the inlet and outlets are different, just curious about the core dimensions.
In general, pulling the front bumper off a car can seem daunting, but it's only the first time that it's hard.
Most cars have the exact same procedure. Pull some fender liner screws, undo a bolt below the headlight, undo some screws under the bumper to the underbody pan, undo a few screw at the leading edge under the front edge of the hood. Pull it off (some clips)
It's generally referred to as "the service position" and so they don't make it that hard to do. And it has to be kinda standard so that any Joe shmoe mechanic can replace your radiatior/condenser/intercooler
Anyway, I'm happy to write up instructions when I Pull mine off and note any challenges.
Most cars have the exact same procedure. Pull some fender liner screws, undo a bolt below the headlight, undo some screws under the bumper to the underbody pan, undo a few screw at the leading edge under the front edge of the hood. Pull it off (some clips)
It's generally referred to as "the service position" and so they don't make it that hard to do. And it has to be kinda standard so that any Joe shmoe mechanic can replace your radiatior/condenser/intercooler
Anyway, I'm happy to write up instructions when I Pull mine off and note any challenges.
All I know is that PRL said the mdx type s stock intercooler was bigger. Generally that means little as the main thing there are upgrading with the ic is moving to bar and plate construction instead of tube and fin.
Installed the PRL charge pipes and the intake tube (already had the PRL filter). Pretty simple except for the intercooler inlet clamp that was installed at the factory, the fastener was not visible. It was perfectly on the bottom! I attached a picture.
The intercooler outlet tube was super easy. The PRL tube has a port (that may be used later) that you have to install a supplied allen head plug (it also has thread sealant on the threads). I reused the factory clamps.
The intercooler inlet tube (turbo outlet) - just needed some stuff moved to get to. Remove the top plastic cover (that covers the hood latch), the intake scoop (3 10mm bolts), and you can pull the air filter box cover and intake tube all at the same time. The only challenge was the clamp that had the fastener on the bottom. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and 8mm to loosen the clamp.
Those silicone tubes are heavy duty!
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
The intercooler outlet tube was super easy. The PRL tube has a port (that may be used later) that you have to install a supplied allen head plug (it also has thread sealant on the threads). I reused the factory clamps.
The intercooler inlet tube (turbo outlet) - just needed some stuff moved to get to. Remove the top plastic cover (that covers the hood latch), the intake scoop (3 10mm bolts), and you can pull the air filter box cover and intake tube all at the same time. The only challenge was the clamp that had the fastener on the bottom. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and 8mm to loosen the clamp.
Those silicone tubes are heavy duty!
Nicely done. Everything was done from up above? how long did it take to do this for you? I might want to do this portion myself to save labor money if I have a shop do the intercooler swap once PRL gets it done. If it does cut down installation costs at the shop.
Yes, all was done from up top. Took about 45 min.
I did not - I did compare them prior to installing the PRL ones. Pretty much identical.
1/4 drive ratchet and socket on the clamp - I went behind and underneath the hose/clamp and got just a little movement with each turn.
141 - 160 of 288 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
