Hey, just wondering if anyone has replaced their ADS shocks for regular shocks due to $$$? In my case, my '07 Elite(sport) with 131,000 km's rear shocks are leaking & making a rattling sound at low speeds over bumps, but comparing the costs, cheapest being US$557 vs US$89., was curious if anyone has done it & if there's any issues?
ADS shocks to regular?
crazy1eye
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Check page 7 of this thread. MacgyversMullet's post. Those are the ones I used and I rarely have the ADS light come on in Sport mode.
I used the ones in mullet's post. He stated they were 1 ohm.
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4 Corner ADS replacement with Non-ADS
Thanks for all of the valuable insight and feedback on this process. Exactly 1 year ago I replaces my ADS rear shocks with new ADS rear shocks and one is going bad already. I have one front shock making the famous "clunking noise" everybody has written about. After reading much of this thread from beginning to end, I will be tackling all 4 corner ADS replacement with the Non-ADS shocks. I ordered the OEM front assembly for the simple plug & play and I also ordered the KYB rear shocks. I will replace these myself in Mid-August and also attempt the resistor hack for the ADS light.
Thanks for all of the valuable insight and feedback on this process. Exactly 1 year ago I replaces my ADS rear shocks with new ADS rear shocks and one is going bad already. I have one front shock making the famous "clunking noise" everybody has written about. After reading much of this thread from beginning to end, I will be tackling all 4 corner ADS replacement with the Non-ADS shocks. I ordered the OEM front assembly for the simple plug & play and I also ordered the KYB rear shocks. I will replace these myself in Mid-August and also attempt the resistor hack for the ADS light.
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799 Posts
Post some DYI photos, when you do your work.
I have a 2010 MDX Advance with the ADS system with 82,000 miles, bought new. I believe my front ADS struts are beginning to "clunk". When they go bad there is no way I will spend over $4500 or so to replace them. When they fail, I will also do the conversion discussed herein at about $1000 for Acura manual struts/shocks. And I appreciate the vast wealth of information in this thread about making that conversion.
However, I do worry about trading my "modified" MDX on a new MDX, which I also intend to do some day. Anyone else concerned about the financial (loss of trade in value) or possible legal implications of trading in a so-modified vehicle?
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164 Posts
Essentially it is not a modification. It is a restoration to Base or Tech suspension. The buyer will be delighted that there is now a reliable, stable and affordable suspension on the vehicle. If you sell it privately you can note that it is a Base/Tech suspension.
hello mdxers, here is my homework.
English is my 2nd language, so I don't know how to write an appropriate disclaimer here, the photos are just for demostration purpose, you are at your own risk when modifying your ads system. I disconnected my battery before I started, and you must have an anti-thieft code for your audio and nav system before you disconnect your battery.
My understanding is that there's no way to turn off the ADS system seperately once you have one installed, because ADS is fully integrated with VSA system to work together.
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English is my 2nd language, so I don't know how to write an appropriate disclaimer here, the photos are just for demostration purpose, you are at your own risk when modifying your ads system. I disconnected my battery before I started, and you must have an anti-thieft code for your audio and nav system before you disconnect your battery.
My understanding is that there's no way to turn off the ADS system seperately once you have one installed, because ADS is fully integrated with VSA system to work together.
just try to stick the resistors to the the controller box
5 Ohm 10W resistors are not good, I got the ADS light back again, I've switched to 1 Ohm 10W X 4 today and will see if they work or not.
I replaced the brake pads for the rear yesterday. The moment I removed the tired, I was like $%#@. The magnetic shock absorber leaks fluid. This after I replaced the front struts/shocks about month ago. Any, does anyone know what is the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts?
I completed the ADS swap 1 month ago on my 2010 MDX Advance. I started getting knocking noises over low speed bumps around 100k miles from the front. New OEM front strut assemblies from acuraoemparts.com and KYB rear shocks from rockauto.com My results:
- Handling feels spongy compared to the ADS system in sport mode, and braking distance has been reduced significantly, I'd guess 10-20 feet from 60 to 0. The corner near my house that I felt glued to the road at 60 mph when I bought the MDX now feels like the body is going to roll off completely at anything over 50 mph. The noises are all gone, and it's better than a malfunctioning ADS, but it's a major downgrade from the ADS system and it drastically changes the driving dynamics of the MDX. If I had it to do over again I'd cough up the money for the ADS parts.
- Front pinch bolts were rusty and I stripped a nut out and had to tap it. Wish I had paid the extra $30 for new pinch bolts and hardware. I'd highly recommend this if you are planning the swap.
- Rear lower bolts were also extremely rusty and one was seized, Again wish I had purchased new hardware (at minimum new lower bolts)
- I used 1 ohm 10 watt resistors from eBay. I kind of doubt that 10 watt rated resistors are really needed but I used them since that's what everybody else had used. The ADS light has remained off for 1 month except for a single time when I had to brake extremely hard to avoid hitting someone (was still getting used to the reduced braking distance). As soon as I restarted the vehicle the light went out and has stayed out for the last 3 weeks and 2000 miles.
Thanks to everyone who posted previously, I read this entire thread and I felt well informed going in.
- Handling feels spongy compared to the ADS system in sport mode, and braking distance has been reduced significantly, I'd guess 10-20 feet from 60 to 0. The corner near my house that I felt glued to the road at 60 mph when I bought the MDX now feels like the body is going to roll off completely at anything over 50 mph. The noises are all gone, and it's better than a malfunctioning ADS, but it's a major downgrade from the ADS system and it drastically changes the driving dynamics of the MDX. If I had it to do over again I'd cough up the money for the ADS parts.
- Front pinch bolts were rusty and I stripped a nut out and had to tap it. Wish I had paid the extra $30 for new pinch bolts and hardware. I'd highly recommend this if you are planning the swap.
- Rear lower bolts were also extremely rusty and one was seized, Again wish I had purchased new hardware (at minimum new lower bolts)
- I used 1 ohm 10 watt resistors from eBay. I kind of doubt that 10 watt rated resistors are really needed but I used them since that's what everybody else had used. The ADS light has remained off for 1 month except for a single time when I had to brake extremely hard to avoid hitting someone (was still getting used to the reduced braking distance). As soon as I restarted the vehicle the light went out and has stayed out for the last 3 weeks and 2000 miles.
Thanks to everyone who posted previously, I read this entire thread and I felt well informed going in.
Your post made me feel I've made the right choice by replacing ADS for ADS. Yeah $3500 later. Just completed the last rear-right this past weekend.
Me too, this is the post I was looking for. I drive my cars hard and have to take other postings with grain of salt, as most people never approach the handling limits of their cars, and won't even notice things that I would find unacceptable. I guess I'll start saving for ADS shocks. Fortunately they went on new cars up to 2013 so should be easy to get them for several more years...
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