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I think problem is solved, although I drove home in the rain so I couldn't drive too fast. Dealer says the drive shaft was defective out of the factory. They replaced it and claim to have test driven at 85 mph without any more vibration. Once weather clears up, I'll find out for myself and let everyone know. Thanks to all posters who gave suggestions. Apparently not an easy issue to pinpoint (or Acura's in no hurry to replace this very large part). Any thoughts on whether driving for about 1500 miles with a defective drive shaft might have messed anything else up ?
Yes, for those that care, I know this is an old thread.....has anyone had any follow up on the plausibility of a bent drive shaft causing the highway vibration many of us experience in our 07+ MDX's?
 
Yes, for those that care, I know this is an old thread.....has anyone had any follow up on the plausibility of a bent drive shaft causing the highway vibration many of us experience in our 07+ MDX's?
My tire shopped blamed the tires. I put new tires about a month ago but vibration is still there. It is sporadic.

I am going for the road force balancing next week
 
Early on the dealer installed tires/wheels from a new MDX. After multiple balance attempts I just lived with it (wifes car and she doesn't care). New tires last fall, same problem. Road force might help, but I've come to the conclusion that there is something else going on here and I'm intrigued by the drive shaft, which presumably is referring to one of the front axle/CV joint assemblies.
 
Early on the dealer installed tires/wheels from a new MDX. After multiple balance attempts I just lived with it (wifes car and she doesn't care). New tires last fall, same problem. Road force might help, but I've come to the conclusion that there is something else going on here and I'm intrigued by the drive shaft, which presumably is referring to one of the front axle/CV joint assemblies.
I think you are right. My winter tires (put brand new in Oct 2011) have the same issue. I did not get a chance to have them re-balanced. Now the new all season (yokohama HTS) have the same issue. The vibration is not there all the time, it is sporadic.

My 03 never had vibration even with old tires.
 
After such extensive efforrts to get them balanced, I think the balance equipment may not be calibrated correctly. The equipment has to be calibrated at least every 6 months. I once had a shimmy problem with a shop and I went to another shop and the shimmy was gone.
 
Interesting thread and lots of things that have worked for someone or the other. Now, would this vibration be intermittent or always at 120kmph (85mph)?
I've been told its balancing of the wheels, but I've the tires balanced 4 times from when I bought the MDX, but the vibration happens intermittently.
If I'm running an errand,mthe steering will show no vibration at even 140kmph, but a few mins later, I can feel the steeringn starting to vibrate after a few mins, it's back to the usual vibrating steering wheel.

I have the tech package with stock michelins
 
Mine is intermittent. On a road trip a while back it would shake for a while, then smooth out, then shake....It's these unsolveable ownership issues that really hurt loyalty. 3rd gen MDX is not going to be a sure thing in my family, going to do a bit more research. Problems that have a solution are fine, I can live with that, but mine pulls to the right, intermittent shake, and some sort of valve tick all of which are "normal characteristics" of the car according to dealers I've visited. OK, then a normal characteristic of someone ready to drop $50k+ on a vehicle is to find a brand that has better characteristics.
 
Mine is also having this issue, specifically around 75mph/2000rpm as mentioned earlier which I also originally though it was the balance of the wheels.

I noticed it is definitely worse under a light load and in cruise. If accelerating hard the problem is actually minimal or even non-existant. I have 2 sets of wheels, i used to test, the std tech 18's for winter with Pirelli scorpions and my 20" Z wheeels with Yokohama paradas for summer and the summer wheels have billet aluminum hubcentric alignment components to have tested (even though this problem just started strangely after my "B" service and front sway link replacement). I drive the same straight highway for 110 miles everyday so have tested all the conditions extensively, while also having both sets of wheels re-balanced and swapped out to eliminate that hypothesis.

Because of the controlled conditions, parameters which cause the vibration, and process of elimination I have strong belief this issue is in the front drivetrain (possibly cv driveshaft) as my steering wheel is what shakes, not the car and because of when the problem worsens. However I can't help to still have that fear of the possibility of a faulty Torque Converter or Propeller Shaft being the cause. If it were the wheels, it would still shake when coasting downhill at the specific speeds which it definitely does not. The problem mainly is under light acceleration/ cruise control on a straight or light/medium grade incline plane at abt 2000rpm (+/- 200rpm) at 75mph (+/- 5mph).

I have to do more research and hopefully find the cause here, this is making me nuts also and obviously we cannot depend on the dealer(s) to find it. If I learn anything I will post for everyone.
 
Greg, I understand what you are saying it is very strange that the majority of this complaint is coming from individuals that own the SPORT models, all sport models have the same rims!!!! When i went to get my rims straightened, the guy stated rims weren't bent but showed characteristics of being defective (he said off center to describe best, which is not repairable). thats when he sent me to get them balanced. He also stated that this style rims produce a lot of heat at high speeds meaning drivers can sometimes feel vibration when the rim is cold but smooth out after heating up or be smooth when cold and start to vibrate after it gets hot. Either way it is the most annoying characteristic of this car, it drives me crazy on lost drives. I would love to swap all 4 tires and rims for the base models for a day to see if that cures the shakes. Has anyone tried that, or replaced the rims and seen the problem go away?

update... now that I have been driving the balanced wheels for 2 weeks. I now think the vibration is still there just not a noticeable as before and at closer to 80mph now. I will now get my front wheels balanced too :24: (should have gotten all 4 done the same time). Though the vibration is much much better but not completely gone... I am also going to go back to the dealer to see if they have something new to say.

Someone in this tread reported Acura having issues with the drive axles that may have been causing vibrations and swapping them out. I have to see my service manager and see what he says about it.

The problem is only noticeable during a set cruising speed around 75+mph, and either very hard to detect or gone when accelerating or braking.

lets keep this topic alive and get to the bottom of this BS
Just reporting back on this on-going vibration problem... Does anyone have a solution?

I have tried all of the following and still live with the vibration....
- all 4 wheel bearing (helped with woo woo sound but not the vibration).
- Rear driver side CV broke. Replacing that didn't help either.
- Since the vibration comes from the back, I was told it was the rims. So I replaced both rear rims. no help.
- replaced tires twice, running on Pirellis now. no help
- changed transfer case fluids and transmission fluid. no help.

I really want to get a resolution for this. With all the things I tried I am definite this problem has nothing to do with the brand of tires, bearings, or the balancing. Big Question is whats left?

Did anyone try the drive shaft or the torque converter? How much are these items to be serviced and did it help? I really can't believe I have accepted this problem for so many years. If I had the money I would have changed cars long time ago for this vibration issue. This is the only real complaint I have and would love for there to be a solution.
 
This is a very frustrating and intriguing problem. There may be many causes for some of these issues too.

I was having a very bad case of it at high speeds, and this is my experience with my MDX.

After trying everything possible, nothing really worked for 70+K miles.

So one thing I tried was to change my brake rotors for brand new ones, and suddenly all wobling/vibrations disappeared instantly. My MDX steering wheel and my entire MDX was smooth as butter at all speeds.

So I have enjoyed this smoothest drive for 20k miles or so. Suddenly I noticed that my rotors are feeling a little warped (some very hard stops) and I had to change worn front new tires for brand new Michelin Diamaris (same as what I have).

And what do you think.. THE PROBLEM is BACK..!! I know my tires are brand new and took it for a check of my balance and all checked fine.

I wonder if Discount Tires tighten my wheel nuts way too hard and warped my rotors, which is a known problem and that is why you should always torque your wheel nuts as spec'ed.

In my case, I know it is not the axles, it is not old tires, it is not balance, it is not alignment (just got one and it was still good), so I am back to finding the issue.

If I cannot fix this issue soon, I will exchange my rotors to AutoZone since they have 2 years full replacement and see if that completely solves the issue again. Before I replaced my warped rotors (dealer already had turned them but did not last), it was pretty bad and I did not had new tires, and when I changed the warped rotors, the vibration was 100% instantly fixed.

I am not telling you to change your rotors to fix, since I don't know what your issue is. But, I am telling you how I originally completely fixed mine for around 20,000 miles until I got my new tires and semi-warped rotors 2 weeks ago.

It does not happen all the time, it happens when I have been driving for a while, which tends me to think that when the brake rotors are hotter, they deform further more if the nuts are not torqued correctly. I will remove my wheels, check my rotors, put back my wheels, and torque them to spec this weekend.. If that doesn't help I'll warranty exchange the rotors and test.

I'll keep you posted to see what happens, but definitely I can tell you from experience that a warped or unbalanced brake rotor can trigger strong wheel vibrations.
 
Thanks for the tip AC_MDX. I was already considering the rotors based on your comments in a different thread. I appreciate the advise and its worth a try since mine feel like they warped too after the recent tire change too.

BTW someone in a different thread here mentioned the propeller shaft (drive shaft) going to rear wheels can be removed and MDX is safe to drive on FWD only? Does anyone know if this is true or even possible? I am only mentioning this because I would love to try driving it without the shaft to figure out if that's causing the vibration. That shaft is about $1000 to get replaced. I would hate to replace it and not make any difference.
 
Make sure your rear control arms aren't bent in any way and the bushings are still good. Quite a few control arm/ball joint issues usually are pegged to certain frequencies at certain speeds only for ones that are only partially worn and not failed yet.

As for the prop shaft, either the flex coupling at the end or the carrier usually wears out. Some more so on brands like Mercedes ML series. I'm not sure if the MDX has a guibo(flex coupler on the end as I can't recall seeing it before) but you may want to check the carrier as well.
 
(Problem is fixed again, details below)

On Saturday morning, I removed my front wheels. At the beginning I thought that the tire place had over-tighten my lug nuts, but it was the other way. It was totally under-tightened. I didn't need to do any effort to loosen my wheel lug nuts.

After removing the wheels and looked at the rotors, everything looked fine.

I wiggled my brake rotors (I did not put the securing screws back when I replaced my rotors), and I saw that they had around 1/25" around 1mm free play. The rotor holes were a little bigger than the lugs, which looked ok to me.

I tried centering my brake rotor, and proceeded to install back my wheels.

One thing that I like to do, and don't know if it makes a difference, is that I put my wheels, adjust the nuts diagonally and in stages. That is tightening only a little bit and then tightening more each round until my torque wrench clicks. I torque my wheels while the tires are still up to try to center them correctly. (Even though they are supposed to be self centering)

I use 90 lbs/ft of torque on my wheels lug nuts.

I have been testing it on the highway up to 90 mph, and any wobbling/vibration is complete gone again. Very smooth and no vibration feedback at all on the steering wheel. I can go smoothly between 40 to 85 mph and all is smooth and fine.

What I can guess is that either the wheels were not originally centered and/or torque correctly (I torque my wheels as recommended and while they are still jacked up), or my rotor 1 mm or so caused the brake rotor to not be centered around the wheel assembly? Those rotors are very heavy and any non-centering issue will cause issues.

That's it, there are no more variables and now my vehicle is back running very smooth with zero vibrations. Again, I am not telling you that this will fix you vibration issue, but I can tell you that the first time (after 80+K miles of mild and severe vibrations at around 50-80 mph) after I changed my warped brake rotors, it fixed my vibration issue instantly for around 20,000 miles. Now, after I installed brand new Michelin tires and performed an alignment, it started vibrating/wobbling again and this time it was either the tire not installed/centered/torque correctly or the brake rotors were not centered correctly in the hub and causing some wobbling/vibrations.

Maybe by default some OEM brake rotors are not centered correctly in the wheel and since it has two screws locking it in place, one cannot center it correclty? Even more with warped rotors..? The dealer originally turned my OEM rotors, but that only fix it for a couple of weeks and then it was the same issue all over. Nothing to do with balancing the wheels since they were perfectly balanced (in my case).

In any case, my MDX is running very smooth with no vibrations. I know how frustrating it is to have this issue, since the MDX advanced is a very nice vehicle and it is a pity that some of them have this frustrating problem. Just sharing my experience in case you tried everything else and nothing helped...

AC




This is a very frustrating and intriguing problem. There may be many causes for some of these issues too.

I was having a very bad case of it at high speeds, and this is my experience with my MDX.

After trying everything possible, nothing really worked for 70+K miles.

So one thing I tried was to change my brake rotors for brand new ones, and suddenly all wobling/vibrations disappeared instantly. My MDX steering wheel and my entire MDX was smooth as butter at all speeds.

So I have enjoyed this smoothest drive for 20k miles or so. Suddenly I noticed that my rotors are feeling a little warped (some very hard stops) and I had to change worn front new tires for brand new Michelin Diamaris (same as what I have).

And what do you think.. THE PROBLEM is BACK..!! I know my tires are brand new and took it for a check of my balance and all checked fine.

I wonder if Discount Tires tighten my wheel nuts way too hard and warped my rotors, which is a known problem and that is why you should always torque your wheel nuts as spec'ed.

In my case, I know it is not the axles, it is not old tires, it is not balance, it is not alignment (just got one and it was still good), so I am back to finding the issue.

If I cannot fix this issue soon, I will exchange my rotors to AutoZone since they have 2 years full replacement and see if that completely solves the issue again. Before I replaced my warped rotors (dealer already had turned them but did not last), it was pretty bad and I did not had new tires, and when I changed the warped rotors, the vibration was 100% instantly and completely fixed.

I am not telling you to change your rotors to fix, since I don't know what your issue is. But, I am telling you how I originally completely fixed mine for around 20,000 miles until I got my new tires and semi-warped rotors 2 weeks ago.

It does not happen all the time, it happens when I have been driving for a while, which tends me to think that when the brake rotors are hotter, they deform further more if the nuts are not torqued correctly. I will remove my wheels, check my rotors, put back my wheels, and torque them to spec this weekend.. If that doesn't help I'll warranty exchange the rotors and test.

I'll keep you posted to see what happens, but definitely I can tell you from experience that a warped or unbalanced brake rotor can trigger strong wheel vibrations.
 
Just reporting back on this on-going vibration problem... Does anyone have a solution?

I have tried all of the following and still live with the vibration....
- all 4 wheel bearing (helped with woo woo sound but not the vibration).
- Rear driver side CV broke. Replacing that didn't help either.
- Since the vibration comes from the back, I was told it was the rims. So I replaced both rear rims. no help.
- replaced tires twice, running on Pirellis now. no help
- changed transfer case fluids and transmission fluid. no help.

I really want to get a resolution for this. With all the things I tried I am definite this problem has nothing to do with the brand of tires, bearings, or the balancing. Big Question is whats left?

Did anyone try the drive shaft or the torque converter? How much are these items to be serviced and did it help? I really can't believe I have accepted this problem for so many years. If I had the money I would have changed cars long time ago for this vibration issue. This is the only real complaint I have and would love for there to be a solution.
Have anybody has a final resolution on this yet? My 2013 Advanced MDX is only vibrating around 70mph (120km/h). Need a fix or TSB please. Thank you!!
 
You need to check your control arm bushings/ball joints. Usually if those are worn the vibration can sometimes get limited to a certain frequency around a certain speed.
 
Bushings and ball joints are wear items. TSB's generally do not apply to wear items.
 
I have had the following done:

road force balancing
4 wheel computer alignment
wheels off and hand torqued lugs to spec.
Suspension inspected - all good.

Next step I guess rotors??? This really sucks love this car other every other time but on the highway steering wheel vibration AND can feel it in the butt of my seat.

If installing new rotors - should does anyone recommend or advise not installing the rotor set screws?
Wondering if they could in fact lock the rotor down at mis aligned centering..
.

HELP PLEASE
 
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