It has been a month since I successfully had my rear ADS shocks replaced with regular and no warning light so far and as "vtec260" suggested, I've put more tape to seal off the resistors to make it as waterproof as possible.
Today, I had my fronts ADS struts replaced by my mechanic with regular ones (full OEM struts assembly). I used 1 Ohm 10 Watt resistors for both fronts. No warning lights even when switching between Comfort and Sport. The only thing is that somehow I lost the wheel alignment so I have to do the alignment soon. Overall, I am happy with the result and driving is much better. Thanks guys.

 

First time poster here ... read through the entire post ... Excellent information!

I'm in the market for a MDX Sport ... at least I thought I was.

Found an 07, one owner with 65K mi for $17K. After test driving, I'm pretty convinced the ADS is shot on all four corners, or at least very close to needing replacement soon. I haven't bought the car yet ...

So here's my question: what other advantages does the Sport version have to offer other than the ADS suspension, upgraded leather on the seats and wheels?

If I'm going to have to replace the ADS shocks and struts anyway, and end up with a Base or Technology model equivalent, why not purchase one of those, instead of the Sport?

Around here a used Sport models seem to demand about a $2K premium ...

 

2 things come to mind, Navigation and larger swaybars.

 

Nav can be found on Tech. Yes larger rear swaybar on sport but you could always upgrade that on any model later. On my non sport, I've never felt the need to upgrade it as the SH-awd works great to help you corner.

IMO for a '07, you're better off looking for a Tech or Tech + Rear Entertainment model. The Rear Ent model for '07 also comes with power lift gate.

 

Helpful, thank you.

Are you implying that on any model after an 07, like an '08, '09 or even '10 and newer it would be worth trying to find a Sport (now called Advance)?

I read that the Advance still has the same problems with the ADS dampers ... No?

Same system, just tuned differently ...?

 

Thank you.

I have been reading this thread for a while and finally pulled the trigger this month.

I have an 07 MDX Sport with 65K miles. The ride was horrible with the clunking sounds.

Purchased:

(1) 51601-STX-A06 SHOCK ABSORBER ASSY., R. FR.
(1) 51602-STX-A06 SHOCK ABSORBER ASSY., L. FR.
(2) 52610-STX-A04 (for the rears)
(4) 10W1D0 1 Ohm Cermet Power Wirewound Resistor

:29: The change is unbelievable. It's like a new car again.

Find a good mechanic to install it for you if you're not mechanically inclined.

 

Another successful ADS to Base conversion

Thanks to all you previous posters in this thread, it was extremely helpful. I have a 2007 MDX Tech/Sport with 140k miles.

Initial symptoms - front end clunking noise, bouncy rear end when going over speed bumps, leaky shocks. $4k pricetag from dealer for sport replacement.

Mechanical hardware used - used salvaged parts from low mileage base model for front shock assemblies, approx $150 each. KYB excel g's from Rock auto for rear, $55 each. Originally I was concerned about spring rates sport vs base but sport coil/spring looked identical to base, same number of coils and same thickness of spring.

Install notes - 4 hours to do front, 2 hours to do rear. Fronts were difficult to replace due to tight bolts and rusted sway bar end links. I had to use 3 foot breaker bar and push/pull with all my might on pinch bolts, plus I only had one 24mm socket so I had to use a pipe wrench to hold the bolt. One of the sway bar endlinks was rusted and I had to cut it off on both ends. My car is from the salt belt and if your is plan on rust, use PB blaster days in advance and be prepared to cut off bolts. Also plan on having someone help you lift the new shock assembly up into the car. I did one side by myself and it was real tricky, luckily I have a second floor jack to help lift the assembly as I guided it in the mounting holes up top. The rear was pretty easy and I had no rust. The service manual said to remove the rear lower control arm bolt next to the lower shock bolt but I was able to replace the rear shocks by only removing the shock bolts.

Electrical components used - Front 5ohm 10 watt resistors. Rear 2 ohm 10 watt resistors. Maybe $10 total

Electrical component notes - I did the front shocks first and drove for a week with 10 ohm 10 watt resistors. These were all my local Radio shack had and did not work, the ADS light stayed on the entire time. I ordered the 5 ohm resistors from Mouser electronics. I put the 5 ohm's in the day before I did the rears and it disabled the ads light while in comfort mode only. Once I completed the rear install with 2 ohm resistors the ADS light stays off in comfort and in sport mode. Essentially the button does nothing and the ADS light has stayed off completely since the rear conversion was completed.

Post conversion notes - I did this conversion a couple of weeks ago and since then I have taken a 1500 mile trip for the holidays with zero issues.

Ride quality - as others have posted the suspension feels as if it is somewhere in between comfort and sport. It feels just a slight bit floaty to me but definitely better than the blown out ADS shocks. I am very pleased with how good the base suspension handles.

Opinion and thoughts - Of course the ADS suspension was better but I don't think it was worth it. If I had it to do over again I probly wouldn't buy an MDX with the sport suspension.
I don't think it really offers that much ($4000) improvement over the base model. However I purchased my 07 in 2010 with 75k miles for $23k. I have 140k miles on it now and it is probly only worth $12k. So for me and this car the non ADS conversion was the most logical choice.
Bottom line - if money is not a factor then sell your MDX and get a BMW X6M or a Porsche Cayenne Turbo S. If money isn't a factor and you love your MDX sport/advanced then go to the dealer and get new ADS shocks. However if money is a factor in your decision then do the conversion to non-ADS shocks it is fairly straight forward for you or your mechanic to do and you will be glad you did.

 

Electrical component notes - I did the front shocks first and drove for a week with 10 ohm 10 watt resistors. These were all my local Radio shack had and did not work, the ADS light stayed on the entire time. I ordered the 5 ohm resistors from Mouser electronics. I put the 5 ohm's in the day before I did the rears and it disabled the ads light while in comfort mode only. Once I completed the rear install with 2 ohm resistors the ADS light stays off in comfort and in sport mode. Essentially the button does nothing and the ADS light has stayed off completely since the rear conversion was completed.

I'm having a hard time following what you ended up using. 2 ohm in the rear and 5 ohm in the front?

Can you link me to exactly what you used so that I can order them? Earlier in the thread, someone posted that 5 ohm 22w 5% work in the front and 1 ohm 10w 10% work in the rear - but I haven't been able to source parts. I have a 2007 sport just like you and hopefully if it worked for you, it will work for me - the light is driving me NUTS!

 

Great thread.

Has anyone gone beyond ~100k miles without needing to replace the ADS dampers?

It is really too bad that there isn't a high-quality aftermarket replacement from Bilstein, Koni or similar.

 

I just traded my 2010 MDX Advance in on a 2013 MDX Advance. My 2010 had 91k on it and my new-to-me 2013 has only 8k on it (verified by Carfax). I bought the 2010 new and when I traded it in, the ADS was working fine and they are the original parts. I did replace the end links on the back and front at about 85k, which greatly reduced a clunking suspension noise.

I was not looking to get rid of the 2010 , however, when I came upon that low-mileage, beautiful 2013, I could not resist as I love the 2nd gen version a lot more than the long, skinny 3rd gen. However, the 2010 seemed as solid as a rock when I traded it.

I like the ride of the ADS so much, I might have shelled out the $3500 or so to replace the ADS struts/shocks when they failed on the 2010, had I kept it.

Also, I really appreciate all the great posts on this thread about how to replace the ADS struts/shocks with the manual solution. It is nice having that option.

 

I only use Comfort mode on the freeway when family is in the car as well. Way too soft for anything else. All shocks will become stiffer to an extent as the ambient temperature decreases. PS: I am at 105000 on the original shocks. I'm considering picking up a backup set while parts are still readily available - I've seen too many other car models develop bad shocks 15-20 years down the road and impossible to find OEM equivalent replacements. If anyone knows of a non-ADS replacement that is as stiff as ADS sport mode, let me know... I do NOT like the drive feel of the non-ADS OEM setup. (somewhere between ADS Comfort and Sport).

 

I actually prefer to use the comfort mode only on rough local roads where there are lots of cracks and potholes.
My ADS struts have been leaking for over two years and I find the ride quality compromised a bit, but not enough to spend CAD $4000 to replace all of them with ADS shocks. I am going to go with regular shocks and save money. I wouldn't mind somewhere between comfort and sport as I don't drive that hard.
Next vehicle purchase will definitely have non-adjustable shocks unless I decide to lease for a few years and return it.

 

I've got a 2010 MDX with the Elite package in Toronto, Ontario and it has only 100,000 Km (60,000 miles) and 2 of the shocks are leaking (one in front and one in rear). The front drivers side is also clunking. The Ads struts are out of stock here and no ETA when stock will arrive. This seems pretty crazy and very premature for such a high end suspension system to fail. I wonder if the salt from our winters helps detiorate this ADS system. I'm stuck on what to do. I like the ADS comfort ride and don't really want to bypass the system but is it worth the extra $2000 Canadian vs having the base model non-ADS system?

Isn't this something that Acura should remedy?

 

@416_MDX:
It's good to see a local MDX Elite owner here
Which dealership do you deal with? I deal with Acura of North Toronto on Yonge and Steeles. I get most of my repairs done at a local shop, though.

 

Getting ready to replace everything

I'm getting ready to replace the front strut assemblies and rear shocks this weekend (OEM struts and rear shocks). Does anyone know who makes the Acura rear shocks? It's a $20 price difference from KYBs.

Now my question is about my left front shock. It has less than 3000 kms on it when it was replaced by insurance for a minor accident. Is there a market to sell this and how much would I ask? In case you're wondering why I didn't replace the other front shock it was a battle I lost with the insurance company.

 

I just replaced the rear ads shocks today. (2 ohm resisters, too).
The 17mm bolts were not seized/frozen and I didn't soak them with PB Blaster.
Most likely, when suspension bolts get exercised every 35,000(ish) miles, oxidation doesn't get too heavy.
I'll mention that getting the ads connector's holder off required me to hold the handles, of my needle-nosed-pliers vertically, as I compressed the holder.
After I got the holder off, the blue connector came off easily.

 

97K on my 11 Advance. Not a single issue. I do keep the connectors cleaned, as well as the chassis in general.

 

This was my only gripe with my 07 sport

I went to dealer they gave me good will estimate to replace all at 200 each !

Hugger the service manager

 

Has anyone replaced their front ADS shocks with regulars yet, what does the ride feel like.And pls can someone tell me how to unplug the wire from under the shock. Mine is very stiff.

 

Are KYBs better than Monroe?

 

Hi everyone, thanks so much for the information was thinking of selling or trade in my 2008 MDX Elite because of the high cost of the suspension. I have one question, why is everyone suggesting the KYB rear shocks not the Base OEM rear shocks? Is this due to cost or road quality?
Also, what is the model number of the KYB's?

 

If you have the money and plan on keeping it long term, I'd suggest either new or used low mileage springs from non ADS MDX along with new non ADS OEM shocks. My $.02

 

Guys, English is my second language,
I am not sure I understand this

I'd suggest either new or used low mileage springs from non ADS MDX along with new non ADS OEM shocks.

I have read somewhere above that people used OEM assembled front shocks and KYB for the rear?

I checked here
FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER (1) for 2007 Acura MDX
is it supposed to buy complete set of the items mentioned there?


Could someone please put here exact part number or models?
Or options like you may use this or this...
With the links if possible.

what are the options for the front shocks? what part numbers, models
what are the options for the rear shocks? what part numbers, models

Thanks

Acura MDX 2007

 

The cheapest parts
-- 1ea front passenger OEM regular base model shock #51601-stx-a06
-- 1ea front driver OEM regular base model shock #51602-stx-a06
I have found are here
STRUT ASSY | Genuine Acura | 51602-STX-A06 - $244
STRUT ASSY | Genuine Acura | 51601-STX-A06 - $254

is this normal price or there are cheaper options?

thanks

 

That is the complete spring and strut assembly in your post. You can save money and rent a spring compressor tool and take apart the factory assembly to just replace the strut only. It's not very hard to do and takes about 30 minutes longer per side than replacing the whole thing. Very worth it to me to save nearly $200.

You can simply swap out ONLY the strut for around $150 per side from acura:
FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER (1) for 2013 Acura MDX

part no 8/9 depending on side

or you can buy KYB struts for the front for around $90 from rockauto.

 

I am slightly confused.

If I decided do not use Acura parts since they are expensive and use KYB
would this set work
"KYB KIT 4 FRONT & REAR shocks / struts 2007 - 09 ACURA MDX" on amazon
?

 

You can buy the same exact KYB's from rock auto for 55 each for the rears (110 total) and $90 each for the front (180 total) so that comes out to $290 plus shipping and tax, cheaper than the 350 on amazon.

OEM Parts just so you aren't confused:
51606-STX-A05 - left front - $150
51605-STX-A05 - right front - $150

the $240-250 Acura part is the complete assembly that'll come with new springs, top hats, etc which is labeled at part no 6/7 in the image below. The part numbers listed above are JUST the strut/shock only.

and the $150 part is only #8 or #9 and will require a minor bit more disassembly to replace

 

Thank you Sir, I am beginning understand better now.

It may be a good idea to replace whole set. In particular 1/5 may be degraded.
Does KYB sell complete assembly?

If I understand correctly, if I decide to go with not original parts like KYB struts would be
More Information for KYB 339038
and assembly mount set this one
More Information for UNITY 11713

correct?

The price would be near the original price

 

Guys, what do you think about Unity Automotive shocks and struts?
I am going to buy whole set front assembly and rear shocks.

 

Alright, all this talk has got me off the fence to do my shocks/struts on the wife's MDX since they have 100k on them now.

Does anyone know if the OEM rear shocks requires the bushings (3, 4) or do they already come on them separately? The diagram has the bushings you can buy separately but the description for the OEM shocks says "assembly" so it's a bit ambiguous.

REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (1) for 2013 Acura MDX

 

If you buy part no 2 then they should be included (whatever is in the box surrounding the part) however you won't get new screws

 

Hasn't tripped for me yet, He charged $150 IIRC.

I believe it's disabled, so it cannot trip

 

For anyone in Edmonton, Alberta looking to do this swap, I had the front struts for my 2010 Elite swapped out by Jasper Autoworks (Jasper Autoworks). Had ~78,000 km on the car when the front LT started to clunk and lost the ability to stiffen up on sport.
Wai is a certified honda mechanic that used to work at West Side Acura and has swapped several MDX's.

Installation labour: $382 CAD (at Jasper Autoworks)
Front LT and RT strut assemblies: $706 CAD (from West Side Acura)
2ohm resistors: $0 (from SQP10AJB-2R0 Yageo | Resistors | DigiKey. No charge as my friend just added it to his business bulk order.)

Total: $1088 CAD

3-4 months driving on it now and I have not gotten any ADS warnings. This is compared to West Side Acura charging $900 for ONE front ADS strut part. I can update costs when I go back to swap the rears.
As someone that is more aggressive on turns than most drivers, I do miss the sport mode. There is definitely a lot more body roll with the base struts.... but I guess that's what my TLX is for
Either way, I'm glad I didn't have to shell out $3000 to fix both fronts and do not have to worry about them breaking down prematurely again.

 

I really appreciate this thread. I have a 2008 Acura MDX Sport/Ent which I purchased new. The MDX has 121,000 miles on it. I am now getting clunks over bumps from the driver's side strut. Mechanic inspected MDX today and there are no leaks as of yet.

I will likely swap out my struts/shocks for the standard version as described on this thread. Can the dealer or shop turn off the active suspension or is the resistor required for this swap?

My MDX has been a reliable car and I haven't had many issues over 121,000 miles. The only thing I've replaced is the Alternator this year.

What's a reasonable labor charge for the front strut assemblies plus rear shocks? $400-$450?

 

I don't think dealers will change the ADS shocks with regular ones and disable to warning for you. I was quoted 4 hours for the replacement work, assuming that the bolts haven't been seized up in the rear, then it takes more time.
I ordered my rear shocks from rockauto today and will order the two front assemblies for Sherway Acura close to the expected delivery of the rear shocks. I am excited to have the X back in better condition soon!

 

Hey let me know how much was the full cost with labour. I just priced the kyb rear absorber from rockauto for 170 shipped for 2. When you purchase original base struts for the front what was your total cost with laboutlr? Im also in canada and I've been holding back and trying to sell the truck instead. If it's cheap i might just keep the truck. Thanks

 

Front assemblies - $718 taxes in. (13%)
Rear KYB shocks - $188 taxes in.
I'm going to Autoscan in Mississauga, ON to have them installed and computer reflashed to get rid of the warning. I'll update this post with the actual labour costs.