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2015 MDX Advance, 50K miles, will not start, battery is charged because headlights and instrument panel light up as normal. With fob in pocket or next to start button, fob battery is good, putting a little brake pressure then pushing the Start button makes no sounds but just goes to accessory message on MID "To Start Engine Brake + Push". After trying multiple times with normal foot brake pressure looked on internet and posts suggested to push brake pedal with both feet then press Start but that did not work either.
 

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Just because the lights work does not mean the battery is good or good enough to start as they are two much different demands on the battery. I'd give it a 97% chance that the battery is bad. Assuming its the OEM battery its 3-4 years old depending on production date and that seems to be the mean time failure rate on these.
 

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I looked at that first and tried it jumped (14.5V) and not at 12.5V. Visually all the cabling looks new, no corrosion and all the nuts and bolts on and around the battery are torqued tight. There is no clicking, or any noise, when trying to start the car. It is like it is not recognizing the brake pedal is been pushed - not matter how hard you press the pedal. Any ideas?
 

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I looked at that first and tried it jumped (14.5V) and not at 12.5V. Visually all the cabling looks new, no corrosion and all the nuts and bolts on and around the battery are torqued tight. There is no clicking, or any noise, when trying to start the car. It is like it is not recognizing the brake pedal is been pushed - not matter how hard you press the pedal. Any ideas?
Sounds like you hit the nail on the head. Probably a sensor has gone bad. It’s time for the dealer to look at it. 4 years 50,000. They may still cover it.
Sorry.
 

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If it will actually go into "accessory" mode, try moving the shifter from P to N to D and then back to P. Almost sounds like the car thinks it's in a gear rather than Park or Neutral. Even if you can't get the shifter to move out of Park, just try to move it back and forth and side to side a little. Also make sure the button on the shift knob moves freely.

Could also be the brake switch. Do brake lights come on?
 

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I don't know the MDX set up but both Legends and the RL I owned had brake switches that went bad well under 100,000 miles. If the MDX uses that part then I would look at that. As suggested look to see if the brake lights come on when you step on the brake.

My 2015 MDX can get confused if I hit the start one time before putting the feet on the brakes then to turn it off I have to hit the start button twice - hit, a couple seconds pass - hit. It sees hit hit as a single hit instead of two. When it is confused the start operation is erratic. You may have to turn it off before starting it. Also if it isn't in park it won't properly turn off either.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have tried to start it over 30 times - varying the brake foot pressure, timing on pressing the Start button and moving the locked shifter and steering wheel back and forth. I shifted the shifter back and forth through the gears and back to Park while the engine was dead - using the key in the fob stuck in the emergency Shift Lock Defeat slot. During all those tries the brake lights are not coming on. It is though it does not recognize the pedal being pressed. Is there a fuse that might be blown that would isolate the brake switch? is there a way I can defeat this brake switch to be able to start the engine and drive to the locate Acura dealer?
 

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check out this video. Seems to be the same problem just with older tech. I’d suspect the MDX computer is just locking out starting it. Worth $8 to try it.

https://youtu.be/HFhxdbV-q6o
 

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Even with the engine off and the keys in the house, the brakes on mine light up when the brake pedal is pushed.

getting up in there will be the hard part unless you are 3' tall and a contortionist. There is a brown switch on the brake pedal. The connector has two wires so I would suspect that is it. Even if you succeed you'll have no brake lights driving and folks today have no clue what hand signals are - they'll likely rear end you and say they thought you were waving at them to speed up and pass. There is a small tab that has to be pressed to pull the connector off.

My guess is that the most likely path in is the left seal, dash side cover, and lower left cover have to be removed like in the fog light switch instructions (at Acura E-Store under accessories) then hopefully that will allow one to reach straight in at the switch. Those connectors can have several different ways of coming off from a small pressable tab to a small indent. I don't know which that is as my head doesn't twist that way.

Do you have AAA towing or a towing rider on your insurance policy?
If you have a trailer hitch maybe a fuse blew? Also if you have a cooler trouble light, compact mirror and are good working on things by feel then you might be able to work on it by looking at it thru the mirror. I did one on our Sable last year and literally had to build a bed platform the same height at the car sill to lay on then put a pad on the floor so my back would not rest on the sill, then I could lay on my back across the platform, look up into the brake pedal area, and work on it. This one probably removes the same as the video that was posted before this.


 

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Even with the engine off and the keys in the house, the brakes on mine light up when the brake pedal is pushed.

getting up in there will be the hard part unless you are 3' tall and a contortionist. There is a brown switch on the brake pedal. The connector has two wires so I would suspect that is it. Even if you succeed you'll have no brake lights driving and folks today have no clue what hand signals are - they'll likely rear end you and say they thought you were waving at them to speed up and pass. There is a small tab that has to be pressed to pull the connector off.

My guess is that the most likely path in is the left seal, dash side cover, and lower left cover have to be removed like in the fog light switch instructions (at Acura E-Store under accessories) then hopefully that will allow one to reach straight in at the switch. Those connectors can have several different ways of coming off from a small pressable tab to a small indent. I don't know which that is as my head doesn't twist that way.

. Do you have AAA towing or a towing rider on your insurance policy?
If you have a trailer hitch maybe a fuse blew?


It’s not that bad - I just put my seat way back and laid down and was able to access the switch and it appears it comes out the same way as the video above. You don’t even have to remove any panel’s or anything. it’s all exposed. You do have to twist a bit but seems very accessible to me.

Personally I’d give it a shot for $8.00. Catch an Uber to the local auto store or get a ride from a friend.
 

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It’s not that bad - I just put my seat way back and laid down and was able to access the switch and it appears it comes out the same way as the video above. You don’t even have to remove any panel’s or anything. it’s all exposed. You do have to twist a bit but seems very accessible to me.

Personally I’d give it a shot for $8.00. Catch an Uber to the local auto store or get a ride from a friend.
I am 6' and a big guy with a bad back so I couldn't get in there on mine. I hope the $8 part fixes it too. That part went bad on 2 legends and my RL so I know it is a high failure type item. Maybe the push brake to start interface is Acura's way of making sure they don't get sued for someone driving with no brake lights. :)
 

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It’s not that bad - I just put my seat way back and laid down and was able to access the switch and it appears it comes out the same way as the video above. You don’t even have to remove any panel’s or anything. it’s all exposed. You do have to twist a bit but seems very accessible to me.

Personally I’d give it a shot for $8.00. Catch an Uber to the local auto store or get a ride from a friend.
I am 6' and a big guy with a bad back so I couldn't get in there on mine. I hope the $8 part fixes it too. That part went bad on 2 legends and my RL so I know it is a high failure type item. Maybe the push brake to start interface is Acura's way of making sure they don't get sued for someone driving with no brake lights. <img src="http://www.mdxers.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smilie" class="inlineimg" />
Ahh yeah, being shorter does have advantages. ?

OP - give it a try, smells like this is your issue.
 

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Problem solved. I looked up the fuse table and checked the Engine Battery Side Fuse box #8 Stop & Horn 20A Fuse -it was blown. New Fuse got me started. Taking it in tomorrow to see what would cause that fuse to flow. Never thought to check to see if the horn was dead too...
 

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^^ Thanks for posting the resolution - you'll probably save others who might run into the same issue - although I think this is the first time I've seen this particular blown fuse issues posted here - which is a good thing since it means it's not chronic.
 

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Thank you mdxstang and yes the fact this is the first time this issue has been noticed on this site does indicate this is not a chronic problem. But any problem where the car will not start is good to know things to look for.
Thank you to Localbar and sgkent for all your guidance and support on this!
 

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That’s awesome ??

Glad it all got sorted without having to call a tow or head to the dealer. This is why these forums are great!
 

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Problem solved. I looked up the fuse table and checked the Engine Battery Side Fuse box #8 Stop & Horn 20A Fuse -it was blown. New Fuse got me started. Taking it in tomorrow to see what would cause that fuse to flow. Never thought to check to see if the horn was dead too...
If it were me I’d skip going to the dealer to find out why. Replace the spare fuse and if it happens again then go an see.
 

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^^ Thanks for posting the resolution - you'll probably save others who might run into the same issue - although I think this is the first time I've seen this particular blown fuse issues posted here - which is a good thing since it means it's not chronic.
You mean it's not a pandemic? That's all we need, a zombie car apocalypse... :wink:
 
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