Bought my pair from Hondapartsunlimited.com
I dunno if the deal still applies (odds are it don't) but the MSRP for each one was about 170 bucks?..
I got my pair for 300? with shipping I cant seem to recall the exact number but it was a deal, Otherwise I would just have replaced the leaky CV (Passenger).
I didn't have to replace both at the same time but since I got both brand new I didn't want to keep it stored for who knows how long.. Car had 73-74K at the time so I am running fresh more or less 12K units on both sides. So yes you can change 1 at a time.
- You don't have to mark the Axles, the axles don't do anything for alignment they just make the wheels spin.. I also re-used the Axle Nut, some people bought them new but the OEM CVs do not come with them.
- Axle seals you mean just the Drivers seal? because we got the intermediate shaft so passenger side does not need a new seal. I replaced the drivers axle without damaging the seal so I didn't replace it, It isn't hard to salvage it you just have to be careful when you pull the axle out of the diff so the spline does not cut or damage the seal..
I have around 12K with the new CV and there aren't any leaks. Also one funny note, there isn't any ATF Spill on the MDX? My TL-S made a huge mess when replacing the Axle but the MDX was bone dry so I didn't need to bring up to level the ATF.
- Usually Honda/Acura ABS Sensors do not bind to the knuckle but I live in So Cali and we don't see snow here so I cant speak for the winter states? In any case I didn't remove the ABS Sensor from its base as the Sensor Marks are on the Bearing Side not the CV so you don't run the risk of damaging it, I just removed the cable nut from the Strut so the cable didn't stretch when I pull the knuckle.
Once you remove the Sway Bar Link (From one end), Tie Rod (From the Knuckle) and the Strut you can lower the A-Arm with the Knuckle held in place by the lower ball joint and remove the CV Easily.
Look at 4:16 on this video, Its basically the same procedure for the MDX...