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Discussion Starter #1
I started to hear some noise when I turn the steering wheel and accelerate at the same time. If it is raining now, so dont want to craw under. Will take a look soon later. So anybody can recommend a quality aftermarket CV axle for our MDX? (07)

Also once I installed the new axle, is it possible to do something to salvage the old one to use later? Maybe we can clean up the old one, replace certain parts, re-grease and reboot to make it new? Never want to just throw away OEM parts. Thanks for the advice!
 

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I did recently in my 07..
As far as parts go I will recommend you that you use OEM ONLY! Honda = Acura are very picky with aftermarket units, Refurbished units should work AFAIK NAPA made some good replacement CV Axles..

I didn't want to struggle with Aftermarket so I went with full New OEM Units (Made in 2016!):


I bought them when I thought my clunking problem when going over bumps was CV Related, Got a sweet deal online to buy the pair but It ended up not being the issue :( My passenger side boot was leaking so at least it fixed that.


As far as the actual process is stupid simple and easy.. I give it 1 out 10 in the DIYer scale...
And yes you can salvage the old units if the Joint (Inner Race) is not scared or damaged, If the Joint is damaged is time to throw them away as the Joint alone is more expensive than the whole new CV Axle for some bizarre reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice. Where did you get the deal from and is it still available? How much did you pay for two? Also do you have to replace two (on the same axle) at the same time?

The process looks easy from the big picture. But I have some questions about details. For example, how to mark the axle to make sure to keep the alignment unchanged? How to deal with axle seal, and how to make sure ABS sensor related issues are well taken care of. Thanks a lot.
 

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Bought my pair from Hondapartsunlimited.com
I dunno if the deal still applies (odds are it don't) but the MSRP for each one was about 170 bucks?..
I got my pair for 300? with shipping I cant seem to recall the exact number but it was a deal, Otherwise I would just have replaced the leaky CV (Passenger).

I didn't have to replace both at the same time but since I got both brand new I didn't want to keep it stored for who knows how long.. Car had 73-74K at the time so I am running fresh more or less 12K units on both sides. So yes you can change 1 at a time.


- You don't have to mark the Axles, the axles don't do anything for alignment they just make the wheels spin.. I also re-used the Axle Nut, some people bought them new but the OEM CVs do not come with them.

- Axle seals you mean just the Drivers seal? because we got the intermediate shaft so passenger side does not need a new seal. I replaced the drivers axle without damaging the seal so I didn't replace it, It isn't hard to salvage it you just have to be careful when you pull the axle out of the diff so the spline does not cut or damage the seal..

I have around 12K with the new CV and there aren't any leaks. Also one funny note, there isn't any ATF Spill on the MDX? My TL-S made a huge mess when replacing the Axle but the MDX was bone dry so I didn't need to bring up to level the ATF.

- Usually Honda/Acura ABS Sensors do not bind to the knuckle but I live in So Cali and we don't see snow here so I cant speak for the winter states? In any case I didn't remove the ABS Sensor from its base as the Sensor Marks are on the Bearing Side not the CV so you don't run the risk of damaging it, I just removed the cable nut from the Strut so the cable didn't stretch when I pull the knuckle.

Once you remove the Sway Bar Link (From one end), Tie Rod (From the Knuckle) and the Strut you can lower the A-Arm with the Knuckle held in place by the lower ball joint and remove the CV Easily.
Look at 4:16 on this video, Its basically the same procedure for the MDX...
 

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Yep.. IIRC it takes about 250lb-ft?
When I do something to the MDX I print the exact number until I am familiar with it, Since I got my TL-S they use the same setup so that is the number I am putting here.. I have the MDX Manual if you need the exact number but by memory I think it was around 240-250..
 

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Yep.. IIRC it takes about 250lb-ft?
When I do something to the MDX I print the exact number until I am familiar with it, Since I got my TL-S they use the same setup so that is the number I am putting here.. I have the MDX Manual if you need the exact number but by memory I think it was around 240-250..
Thanks. Surprised it was not shown in the video. Does the manual specify if the torque is applied with wheel off the ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have trouble finding a torque-limiting extension bar that can handling up to 250 ft lb. Anybody can recommend one? Thanks.
 

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Thanks. Surprised it was not shown in the video. Does the manual specify if the torque is applied with wheel off the ground?
The exact number is 242lb-ft and the manual says to do it off the ground without the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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I haven´t used those types of Torque Tools as I would never try to Torque Anything with Electric/Air Tools.
 

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I had to look around and see how they worked as I didn´t know they existed.

Its just a stick of tensile steel that flexes when it reaches a certain torque limit. I would not trust that at the price point they are selling them they are very accurate, I even saw a dude on YouTube that basically used them to tighten the lug nuts of the wheel fast with the impact wrench and ended up using a regular torque wrench to accurately set to spec...
Like ....
What is the point of them If you are going to use a regular torque wrench anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I want to do it this way b/c I am thinking about timing belt changes for three of my cars. For that, to tighten the crank pulley, there is no short cut. You either get a crank pulley holder, or use this kind of torque stick. If it works for crank pulley, it certainly works for axle nut. Honda crank pulley holder is cheap. But Toyota crank is surprisingly expensive. If a strong electric impact wrench + torque stick can get it done, it will work perfectly for me. I do not have space in my garage for a big compressor.
 

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Dunno man... I have seen plenty of reviews in amazon by know and they all agree that they are not accurate...
Some dude even found out a +30lb-ft difference in tightening force (ex: Stick is 80lb-ft but it tighten to +110lb-ft).
 

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I realize this is an old post, but wanted to add to this for anyone looking for more info . . .

I never use Torque Sticks for tightening anything on my vehicles. Torque sticks are great for using an impact wrench to quickly set a large quantity of nuts or bolts to a torque value LOWER than the recommended value AFTER setting them finger-tight, then using a TORQUE WRENCH to accurately reach your recommended value. According to the information on McMaster-Carr's website, the accuracy of the torque sticks (or Impact Torque-Limiting Socket Adapters) is ±10%, and I know that I have some variation in my compressor and my 20-year-old impact wrench.

I did purchase a set of torque sticks when I was performing frequent composite hose testing with two 8" Class 150 flanges (16 bolts total), which required cross-pattern tightening to 60 ft-lbs, then 140 ft-lbs, then I used a torque wrench to tighten in a cross pattern to 200 ft-lbs, and finally 200 ft-lbs again in a sequential order.

I believe most tire shops use torque sticks to quickly set a lower torque on lug nuts, but then use a torque wrench to set nuts to recommended values, but after getting new tires installed a couple months ago, I seem to have a little variation in my brake rotors.
 

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putting Corona to good use:

114575
 
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Nice! What kind of light are you using? Is that a LiOn rechargeable one? How bright is it?
It is Harbor Freight one and it is rechargeable . This is one of the best lights I had. 3 light modes, plenty of light and what is really important for me, strong magnet. I have 3 of them... Oh and I upgraded battery with double capacity.
They have coupons sometimes for $18.99:
 
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