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what wax and detergent do you use?

5K views 28 replies 21 participants last post by  RichG 
#1 ·
How is your experience?
 
#5 ·
I'm with Gasman ... have been real pleased with Griot's Garage. I think their car wash is terrific, and they have a large selection of car care products (I like the liquid carnuba wax) and detailing recommendations. www.griotsgarage.com but you ought to get hold of the printed catalog. :)
 
#6 ·
Obviously, I'm a zainiac now, but once upon a time I used Turtle Wax ZipWash, in a big, cheap jug, with good results.
 
#9 ·
I have used Zymol in the past and it has worked well, but I have since switched to Griot's Garage wax for both my cars. It works great.

I also use many of their other car care products.
 
#10 ·
I have always been a big fan of Meguires products. Their #26 wax works great (dry or liquid form). I use a orbital buffer and it makes the car look really impressive. Last week I used the Swirl remover, followed by #7 polish and finished by a coat of #26 and on a 1992 Volvo. The car looks better than the day we first bought it....

Ootyboy

PS: If you are confused about the numbers check out the meguires web site: http://www.meguiars.com/
All of their products are by number.
 
#13 ·
I'm with ootyboy, I use Meguires. Good stuff.

I also would/have used Zymol & Zaino.
 
#14 ·
Been using Griot's Machine Polishes and Best of Show Wax for the past three years with excellent results. Plan to try Zaino on the MDX as soon as the new product comes out. I'm not stripping the Griots until I know the Zaino can be used in cooler climates. The procedure to apply both are much the same, strip off old product, clay, polish, etc.
 
#15 ·
I would also recommend using a Powerwasher to rinse off your car before using any type of Shampoo or cloth. A lot of times cars have fine grains or sands on the paint that cannot be removed with a regular water hose. Once you start applying the shampoo and wiping it down it causes fine scratches on the paint. If you powerwash you get the fine grain stuff off and there will be no scratches.

I have a 1400 PSI electric power washer. You just have to make sure that you are not too close to the paint, because it can cause some major damage.


Ootoboy
 
#16 ·
Potential Flame

I know you diehard Zaino's may laugh big time, but I've used Durashine's product for 6 years. I like it since it really does sheet the water and it's super easy to apply. You take a hose and flush the excess off.

Go ahead and chuckle, but as I'm not a fanatic for the finish- this does a great job and is easy!

Be gentle on the rebuttles please.
 
#18 ·
Redwing

Honestly, if it works for you, then more power to you -- that's why there are a bunch of alternatives depending on the "look" and amount of effort people want to put into washing/waxing. I washed my old Heep GC 3 or 4 times in as many years (but it was gray, and it was a Heep). Here's a new avatar for you :)

 
#19 ·
Re: Redwing

TheWorm said:
Honestly, if it works for you, then more power to you -- that's why there are a bunch of alternatives depending on the "look" and amount of effort people want to put into washing/waxing. I washed my old Heep GC 3 or 4 times in as many years (but it was gray, and it was a Heep). Here's a new avatar for you :)

I deserve that- but really, the stuff works pretty well. Remember the posts on RainX. Not for all, but does work. I have hand waxed my Infinti about 4 times and used the "shine" the rest of the time, and the finish is great. The car is dark green, and after rains- no spots- at least not tons of them. It spots lots more with the "carnuba" type hi end waxes.
 
#20 ·
I thought I would do a search on powerwashing. I ended up here.

Is powerwashing considered safe? I read it can cause major damage. Any bad experiences anyone?

Or as someone mentioned, use it first, to remove sand particles before washing.
 
#22 ·
Power Washer is Safe

I have used a power washer for the past year and a half. Mostly, to clean the underside of the car after a trip to Tahoe -- the salt, sand and grime needs to come off to avoid rust. I also use it to clean the engine compartment of the car. I have also used it to wash the surface of the car. Keep in mind the following point:

**Test your power washer on another object -- Say a driveway. Power washers can be damaging to the paint if you are too close to the car when you wash. Depending on the pressure of the machine (mine is 1500 PSI -- But I have seen them as high as 4000 PSI at Home Depot), make sure you get comfortable with it before using it on your car.

This is probably obvious, but do not test the power washer on any part of your body, it can really take the skin off and cause some injury.

Also, if you are too far away the effect of the power washer is taken away. In fact in my case if I am more than 3 feet away from the object, it bascially acts as a weak mist. Better to use a regular hose in that case.

Hope this helps.
 
#23 ·
Best advice of water...

... that I ever heard was from a detailer with 40 year of experience (dealer & independant). Use all the water you can, with the most rain-like spray you can manage. He'd use a watering wand, like you'd use to water plants in baskets. Tiny little drops. He'd soak the the whole car for a good 5-10 minutes. Then he'd hit with the suds. Then more water until all the soap suds were gone. Whole process was in the garage/wash shed. No sunlight over head.

His reasoning was most dirt will get 'waterlogged' and when it's wet it can't scratch. No sun meant no chance for water spots to form. He hated pressure washers or 'power hose nozzles'. It gets the dirt/grit blasted into the finish.
Of course this 'method' is pretty much as wasteful of water as can be, and assumes you have a fully shaded area.

Still, I saw him work with cars that had no right to look as good as he made 'em, and it sure makes sense to me.

As to the 'potential for damage' issue with power washers, I think most of the Karcher electric units are moving at 1400 psi with a voulme volume of water, not the 4000+ of the 5hp+ of commercial units and that is a big difference. I don't think you need or want to use a pressure washer on a "fine painted surface". Frequent gentle washes are preferable to high pressure. The MDX body is pretty smooth and won't really trap much dirt. I would reccomend against it. BTW ever bend to the beach and been home for like two days and then find some sand in your ear or stuch between your teeeth? :D Wouldn't presssure wash my ears either... ;)

ByeByeChrysler said:
I thought I would do a search on powerwashing. I ended up here.

Is powerwashing considered safe? I read it can cause major damage. Any bad experiences anyone?

Or as someone mentioned, use it first, to remove sand particles before washing.
 
#25 ·
with a power washer - ne sure also NOT to use the blaster nozzles they give you - something with more of a wide pattern will reduce the blast and embed effect . .
 
#26 ·
CycleCare Formula #3

If you think it is time consuming waxing a car, try detailing a motorcycle and if you do, you know what I'm talking about. Keeping a motorcycle clean,shiny and protected can be a hell of a lot of work.

I got tired of carnuba wax base products years ago. Lots af white powder residue and back braking rubbing.

I have been using CycleCare products for years on my Goldwings and am allways amazed at how long it lasts. Even after a dozen washes, when I wipe my vehicals down, They look like I just got done waxing them. The slippery feel is still there to the touch and rain water simple rolls off.

The best part is how easy this wax is to apply and there is never any powder left over. Little pressure is needed to apply this product and you can do the entire vehical before you wipe it off.

I have turned many of my customers and friends onto this product and not one person has been disappointed.

If you have found something that works well for you, stick with it.
If you are looking for something better thats easy to use, try this stuff.



CycleCare Formulas :6: :4:
 
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