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Took her to Honda today and found out my rear pads are at a whopping 2mm and front pads at 3mm. Talked with the SM of the dealer, and he said he can price match Acura of Pembroke Pines and give me a loaner. This is gonna be expensive.


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replacing brake pads is a pretty easy DIY job, and generally will save a considerable amount of money. I believe dealers make a LOT of money on brake jobs. BTW how many miles on the car? On the last 4 vehicles I've had I've been getting 150-250K miles on OEM brake pads and I'm NOT an easy driver on brakes or tires. Two of the vehicles usually tow a 10,000lb trailer and I'm at 20K lbs overall driving down the road and over mountains.
I'm also suprised and disapointed that Acura/Honda doesn't have any form of notification of worn pads, either as a metal scraper that has been used for at least 50 years, or a sensor inserted into the pads like my two mid 90's cars that then show a dash warning when the pads need replacing.
 

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replacing brake pads is a pretty easy DIY job, and generally will save a considerable amount of money. I believe dealers make a LOT of money on brake jobs. BTW how many miles on the car? On the last 4 vehicles I've had I've been getting 150-250K miles on OEM brake pads and I'm NOT an easy driver on brakes or tires. Two of the vehicles usually tow a 10,000lb trailer and I'm at 20K lbs overall driving down the road and over mountains.
I'm also suprised and disapointed that Acura/Honda doesn't have any form of notification of worn pads, either as a metal scraper that has been used for at least 50 years, or a sensor inserted into the pads like my two mid 90's cars that then show a dash warning when the pads need replacing.
Ol’ girl has 88350 miles on the odometer . A month earlier a different SA told me she has 7mm left on all pads. Was quoted $690 before taxes and whatnot. It’ll take at least two weeks for me to save up money for the required tools and parts for the DIY option or for having Honda do this and an OC with Honda branded oil.

Pads lasted longer on the MDX compared to the previous vehicles we had. And this might also include the drum brakes on the Accord.


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Ol’ girl has 88350 miles on the odometer . A month earlier a different SA told me she has 7mm left on all pads. Was quoted $690 before taxes and whatnot. It’ll take at least two weeks for me to save up money for the required tools and parts for the DIY option or for having Honda do this and an OC with Honda branded oil.

Pads lasted longer on the MDX compared to the previous vehicles we had. And this might also include the drum brakes on the Accord.


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changing brake pads requires a floor jack, a pair of jack stands and a few wrenches, Given the quality of rotors on most cars today, all that is needed is to drop in a new set of pads, and bleed the brakes manually. OEM pads are likely in the $50-$75 per axle. Find a friend that has done some DIY on vehicles including changing pads and have him teach you, take him to a good dinner afterwards and you'll still have $300+ in your pocket and learned a great deal.
 

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changing brake pads requires a floor jack, a pair of jack stands and a few wrenches, Given the quality of rotors on most cars today, all that is needed is to drop in a new set of pads, and bleed the brakes manually. OEM pads are likely in the $50-$75 per axle. Find a friend that has done some DIY on vehicles including changing pads and have him teach you, take him to a good dinner afterwards and you'll still have $300+ in your pocket and learned a great deal.
I'm looking at RockAuto for pads. Now for rotors: Can I reuse the current one I have without machining it or Do I have to buy new ones?
 

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I'm looking at RockAuto for pads. Now for rotors: Can I reuse the current one I have without machining it or Do I have to buy new ones?
rotors if they are within spec for thickness and not gouged from completely worn pads likely don't need replacing. IMHO best choice for pads is OEM pads. If not OEM akebono. Not sure about the non nybrid MDX but IIRC on the hybrid the rotors can't be turned. And in many cases turning rotors is as expensive as new and often new rotors are thin enough that turning them will be below minimum thickness. FWIW on My truck at 250K miles the OEM rotors were in good shape and well within spec's and I kept them on. Same on two other cars with >100K on the OEM rotors. Todays rotors are magnitudes better than the days of old cheap cast iron rotors.
 

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I'm looking at RockAuto for pads. Now for rotors: Can I reuse the current one I have without machining it or Do I have to buy new ones?
I would only resurface if you have deep grooves or you feel a "shimmy" when braking at high speeds like exiting from the hwy. If you have no issues like that and you like the performance of the OEM pads means you can add them without resurfacing. That would save you time from breaking in/bed-in process. The brake pad break-in transfer pad material onto the rotor to help with the braking process. That can be done with a series of emergency stops from different speeds in minutes or you can do a break-in/bed-in process of driving/braking normally over time. You might have to do one or the other break-in process if you do go with new type of pads and/or new rotors.

The only issue I've had with the slower drive over time break-in period is you might not have full emergency stopping power if you don't have enough pad material transferred to the rotors (feels like you are stopping on ice in an emergency; but, feels normal during normal braking).
 

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2019 MDX. I do a lot of fishing, and was tired of my rods sitting between the seats. I have had bent guides from items falling over. I generally go away for a few days at a time for trips so I have a cooler, luggage, tackle bag, etc in the car. I got this rack from Innoracks.



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rotors if they are within spec for thickness and not gouged from completely worn pads likely don't need replacing. IMHO best choice for pads is OEM pads. If not OEM akebono. Not sure about the non nybrid MDX but IIRC on the hybrid the rotors can't be turned. And in many cases turning rotors is as expensive as new and often new rotors are thin enough that turning them will be below minimum thickness. FWIW on My truck at 250K miles the OEM rotors were in good shape and well within spec's and I kept them on. Same on two other cars with >100K on the OEM rotors. Todays rotors are magnitudes better than the days of old cheap cast iron rotors.
I’m going with the OEM Akebonos since RockAuto has them in stock for roughly $100 total before $10 for shipping and $x.xx for tax. I still think my OEM rotors are in good condition so I should be able to run these rotors for another 90k miles hopefully. I would need to find the PN for the Honda logo version and see the price difference between multiple dealers and online Honda retailers before pulling the trigger on RockAuto.


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I didn't like the OEM rims on my 19 MDX. I switched them out the gloss black Berlina 20"X8" rims; but, still not 100% happy. Thinking about going aftermarket and selling the Berlina rims.
 
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I didn't like the OEM rims on my 19 MDX. I switched them out the gloss black Berlina 20"X8" rims; but, still not 100% happy. Thinking about going aftermarket and selling the Berlina rims.
Aftermarket varies alot with cost and quality. Make sure its reasonable with the price and quality. Def don’t get reps or knockoffs from China, as those are frowned upon in the car community.

I too am looking at aftermarket, since my OEMs are getting boring for me. Want to spice it up a lil bit.


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Took the X to the Honda dealer for an OC & TR. Basically dealer is now asking BMW prices for a simple OC & TR. This is literally my last time having any dealer do an OC on my X, due to coupons no longer existing for a cheap OC & TR. However, they had switched to Honda branded oil, so wanted to give that a try and see how well it'll stack up to against Castrol & Mobil 1. I looked at Costco and sure enough the only 0W-20 they carry is the Kirkland Signature in 2x 5qrt jugs. I might end up having to buy the oil from WalMart to get 6 qrts of 0W-20 instead.

From experience:

Mobil 1 runs clean until ~6500 miles or so
Castrol Magnatec runs clean until ~5500 or so

I will see how long the oil will last here.

Previous OC was on Castrol and changed at 20% with 5,949 miles on it.
 

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Took the X to the Honda dealer for an OC & TR. Basically dealer is now asking BMW prices for a simple OC & TR. This is literally my last time having any dealer do an OC on my X, due to coupons no longer existing for a cheap OC & TR. However, they had switched to Honda branded oil, so wanted to give that a try and see how well it'll stack up to against Castrol & Mobil 1. I looked at Costco and sure enough the only 0W-20 they carry is the Kirkland Signature in 2x 5qrt jugs. I might end up having to buy the oil from WalMart to get 6 qrts of 0W-20 instead.

From experience:

Mobil 1 runs clean until ~6500 miles or so
Castrol Magnatec runs clean until ~5500 or so

I will see how long the oil will last here.

Previous OC was on Castrol and changed at 20% with 5,949 miles on it.
Do you know if they charge for transmission service bulletin reprogram? (Is that covered under warranty) I have no interest in paying out of pocket. But it has been slamming into 2nd gear and is not right. I don't think that warrants out of pocket payment to address when vehicle is still in warranty. Concerning oil changes, have always performed my own, except for company car. The eye popping things that dealers and non-dealers have done scares me to death, don't trust my personal vehicle to anyone if it can be avoided.
 

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Do you know if they charge for transmission service bulletin reprogram? (Is that covered under warranty) I have no interest in paying out of pocket. But it has been slamming into 2nd gear and is not right. I don't think that warrants out of pocket payment to address when vehicle is still in warranty. Concerning oil changes, have always performed my own, except for company car. The eye popping things that dealers and non-dealers have done scares me to death, don't trust my personal vehicle to anyone if it can be avoided.
I did the 6AT TSB reflash on my 11 MDX and 7DCT TSB odd gear issue reflash on my 18 RLX hybrid and 19 MDX hybrid for free. All the vehicles were still under the 4yr/50,000 basic warranty. I don't know if the reprogramming would still be free under the 6yr/70,000 powertrain or if there would have been a charge outside of the basic, powertrain, CPO, or extended warranties? I "think" they shouldn't charge you if you are under warranty and you have AT symptoms as described in the TSB.
 

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Do you know if they charge for transmission service bulletin reprogram? (Is that covered under warranty) I have no interest in paying out of pocket. But it has been slamming into 2nd gear and is not right. I don't think that warrants out of pocket payment to address when vehicle is still in warranty. Concerning oil changes, have always performed my own, except for company car. The eye popping things that dealers and non-dealers have done scares me to death, don't trust my personal vehicle to anyone if it can be avoided.
If its an Acura, Honda dealers will direct you to Acura dealers due to not having access to Acura’s systems and electronics. And always read the fine print on those CPO warranties and see if your issue is covered or not covered.

A TSB is not covered unless you still have the bumper to bumper warranty (maybe the powertrain too, but someone here who had it done under the powertrain or CPO warranty can chime in). Under my bumper to bumper warranty, Honda paid Acura dealers for the TSBs. And I had many done on my 17 MDX.


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I did the 6AT TSB reflash on my 11 MDX and 7DCT TSB odd gear issue reflash on my 18 RLX hybrid and 19 MDX hybrid for free. All the vehicles were still under the 4yr/50,000 basic warranty. I don't know if the reprogramming would still be free under the 6yr/70,000 powertrain or if there would have been a charge outside of the basic, powertrain, CPO, or extended warranties? I "think" they shouldn't charge you if you are under warranty and you have AT symptoms as described in the TSB.
My CPO has both warranties for some time.
 
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