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Discussion Starter #21
Nah no Need get the Honda Part as long as the part number is the same then the part is the same..

You could only hesitate if the part number was different even by a single letter or number but in this case they are both the same part number., If I could do it again I would have bought the Honda part to save a few bucks on the shipping.
 

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Nah no Need get the Honda Part as long as the part number is the same then the part is the same..

You could only hesitate if the part number was different even by a single letter or number but in this case they are both the same part number., If I could do it again I would have bought the Honda part to save a few bucks on the shipping.
gracias :29:

I'll roll the dice and go with the Honda part...i'm sure if its the wrong part (which is unlikely in this case), either the mechanic in question will know relatively quickly and/or after they have connected the part (and it MDX doesn't recognize it etc.)
 

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I just check the page and it also says that doesn't fit my 2007 either so yeah its probably because the part is labeled as for Hondas and it will unfit any car under the Acura brand.
Funny because even Hondapartsunlimited.com (From where I order all my Parts Online) sells the same part cheaper if you buy it for a Honda than for an Acura:

Confidently ordered the Honda part a couple days ago- the guy on the phone at Honda Parts Unlimited even said 'if i were you just, order the Honda part...that's all I can say'...lol

should be arriving today...in summary, my total cost for this job (including part from Honda Parts Unlimited and labor from a certified, non-stealership mechanic) will be about $170 out the door...interestingly enough my last estimate (received recently over the phone) from a stealership for parts & labor was $508....that's quite a discrepancy!! :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
DAMNNNN Honda & Acura is making a killing on replacing this part... Seems that fails common seeing how it fits a wide range of cars.
In Baja a specialized transmission shop asked me 10 bucks for labor to change the part.
10 FREAKING BUCKS!!!! And they specialize in rebuilding Honda transmissions!!!

Although that was indeed cheap it doesn't beat FREE of Doing it Yourself ;)
 

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I've had this happen on three occasions so far but it turned itself off and never lasted more than a day. Never had a situation where I couldn't start the car though. Maybe I'm running on borrowed time. Another thing to tackle in the summer...
For any of you 2nd gen Acura MDX owners out there who have either received the Transmission (P1717) error code and/or have had instances where your MDX doesn't start or only starts in neutral (accompanied by the P1717 error code), I'd highly recommend that you take the plunge and have your 2nd gen. MDX's Transmission Range Switch replaced a.s.a.p as I did yesterday- apparently my switch was on its last leg (and up until yesterday I had resorted to simply repeatedly/naively clearing the error code with my scanner device- this just wasn't going to cut it for me- or my 2nd gen. MDX any longer!).

Be forewarned that the Acura stealerships charge on average about $300-$508 (actual stealership quote range recently fielded for parts & labor)
for this job and it was in fact this extremely ridiculous price hike itself (along with Mr. Skirmich's great DIY install tips/purchase advice which I had resorted to printing out in color while providing it to the independent Honda/Acura mechanic shop- they actually used his advice and did the replacement via removal of driver side front wheel- and NOT from the top!- sorry Mr. Skirmich- you really do deserve a cut!) that had motivated me to eventually get this job completed yesterday- all for less then $170 total out the door ($100 labor + >$70 part from Honda Parts Unlimited).

Well, even the chief mechanic at the shop was shocked at the extremely poor condition of my old (and now replaced) 2009 MDX Transmission Range Switch which looked something like this (ACTUAL PICS of his part after approximately 8 years of use!): :surprise: it's no longer a mystery to me why this error code kept popping up!!!!

<img src="http://www.mdxers.org/gallery/500/thumbs/2.jpg" width="96%" height="96%">
<img src="http://www.mdxers.org/gallery/500/thumbs/5.jpg" width="96%" height="96%">
<img src="http://www.mdxers.org/gallery/500/thumbs/6.jpg" width="96%" height="96%">
<img src="http://www.mdxers.org/gallery/500/thumbs/4.jpg" width="96%" height="96%">
<img src="http://www.mdxers.org/gallery/500/thumbs/3.jpg" width="96%" height="96%">

This is what the new Transmission Range Switch looks like (compliments again of Mr. Skirmich's pics):
<img src="http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/ac29/Skirmich/83029C74-C185-4379-8C51-20B688E1D9A0_zpsgley7dcd.jpg" width="45%" height="45%"><img src="http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/ac29/Skirmich/F4153AF0-4163-4DDF-8D1A-B967CDCFA67A_zpsfded7ub5.jpg" width="45%" height="45%">

If your 2nd gen MDX is in the 70K mile and greater range and you're experiencing any of the aforementioned symptoms described above, don't wait until it's too late, or ignore this particular Transmission related error code (P1717)- you could get stuck out there somewhere on the open highway all b/c of this worn down piece!!

Oh and lastly and more importantly- don't get RAPED by the stealership on this particular essential service!!! If you have the know-how and can do it yourself (takes about an hour via Skirmich's suggested method) then by ALL means take advantage of that skillset (like Skirmich) and save yourself about $300-$400!!!....or hire a qualified/highly reviewed Acura/Honda mechanic to do the job with the supplied part that can readily be purchased online (I recommend Honda Parts Unlimited!) :29: .
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Congratulations! and Thank You for the kind words.

Your TRS was definitely on worse shape than mine but its the actual inside that matters, You can easily open up the TRS by undoing the Philips Screws and see the shape of the main brushes and contact lines. Mine were really oxidized and I think a really good clean and sanding would have made the TRS work again like new. I kept the old TRS and did clean it for future use but I hope the new TRS last at least another 10 years.
 

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Congratulations! and Thank You for the kind words.

Your TRS was definitely on worse shape than mine but its the actual inside that matters, You can easily open up the TRS by undoing the Philips Screws and see the shape of the main brushes and contact lines. Mine were really oxidized and I think a really good clean and sanding would have made the TRS work again like new. I kept the old TRS and did clean it for future use but I hope the new TRS last at least another 10 years.
Thanks!!!! I will open the old TRS up to see if it's as bad in the inside as it appears on the outside, heck if its not too bad and only requires a thorough cleanup, maybe I can list it on eBay!! :29:
 

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all for less then $170 total out the door ($100 labor + >$70 part from Honda Parts Unlimited).
I just did my dad's today and it took me about 45 mins from the time I removed my wheel to the time I put it back on. Most of that was seeing what I was actually dealing with. My friend's MDX had the same issue and like you he's been just dealing with it for close to a year, maybe even longer. I had him order the part last week when I ordered my dad's.

Right after I did my dad's I had him drive his MDX into my driveway and finished his in about 25 mins. If only you lived in San Diego I would have told you to pull your MDX up into my driveway and did yours for free too. At the very most I would have asked you to spend $1.00 to buy me a taco for something I wouldn't even call labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thank god you didn´t attempt the Top Method like I did, Waste of time and work.
One of the few rare times the OEM Way is wrong.
 

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I just did my dad's today and it took me about 45 mins from the time I removed my wheel to the time I put it back on. Most of that was seeing what I was actually dealing with. My friend's MDX had the same issue and like you he's been just dealing with it for close to a year, maybe even longer. I had him order the part last week when I ordered my dad's.

Right after I did my dad's I had him drive his MDX into my driveway and finished his in about 25 mins. If only you lived in San Diego I would have told you to pull your MDX up into my driveway and did yours for free too. At the very most I would have asked you to spend $1.00 to buy me a taco for something I wouldn't even call labor.
congrats and thanks for the generosity!...considering that I was about to (and willing) to hand over about $450 to my local Acura stealership to get this particular maintenance task done this Spring, and having walked away with only about $180 in (actual) damages (part purchased online, + non-stealership, local independent Honda/Acura mechanical work of about $100)- I feel very fortunate and most importantly thankful that this particular maintenance task is behind me~ :29:...there are likely some who are driving around in their 2nd gen. MDX, whose car could really benefit from having this replaced a.s.a.p....

your friend should also be VERY thankful that you were able to do his/her 2nd gen. MDX (while saving him/her about $350 in Acura stealership- RIP off labor fee's!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi Folks!

This is not a DIY!
Just wanted to share with you guys my issues with the TRS.. Sometime ago I had an issue where I could not start the MDX at all, the MID will show "CHECK STARTING SYSTEM".. It did this like 2 times in separate occasions.
Finally about a month ago a Check Engine code will pop off every time I engage reverse quickly, Like doing a 3 point turn in a hurry.. Drive "D" would blink in the dashboard, MID will say CHECK TRANSMISSION*and the NAV will show a P1717 Code telling me that the TRS was at fault... So finally this was the reason the car did not wanted to start in those 2 occasions. Today finally my TRS came in the mail, It took some time to get here because of the holidays and probably because I used*FED EX (Considering all my items from USPS came in time).

The part you will need for the MDX is 28900-RYF-023 this is unique to the 07-08-09 models only it will not fit 10-13.. Total Cost? 70 bucks shipped for a Brand new OEM "Japan Made" TRS.







Since the DIY for the TRS has been done to hell I do not think we need yet another DIY to change it... Just wanted to change my Experience so if anybody is having issues with a No Start situation and a P1717 Code? This is it!
You can in theory remove the TRS and try to clean it but since the TRS in the MDX is relatively cheap I did not think twice to just replace it all together... Now time for the stupid Purge Valve Solenoid that is still ticking like hell.

Fixed the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well got the bastard out...


PRO DIY TIP #1:
Not without a hiccup though, First day was a bust because I could not unplug the TRS connector for my life. The connector itself has a strange locking mechanism that is not common with other Honda & Acura systems I´ve personally seen, Not even in my TL-S... Even more curious is that Nobody in the entire internet has come up with a clear picture of the connector Lock in our MDX so this is a first! On the Internet!



The connector lock works by having a straight pull lock on top, But instead of Pulling Out like any other connector you have to pull the white part only (Do not grab the black part of the connector) the white portion will hinge down and will push the black connector out by itself. There is no need to touch the black portion of the connector. This is what made me stop the first try I tried to change it BECAUSE:

PRO DIY TIP #2
DO NOT CHANGE IT FROM THE TOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Even if the manual says to remove the battery and battery tray what it doesn´t say is that there a a gazillion connectors hanging from the battery tray base.. Its a nightmare to pull them out and even then there is a Connector attached to the lower portion near the headlight that its almost impossible to remove, So I move the battery tray away so I could reach the TRS and man the angle is horrible you will have to work pointing DOWN and extending your arms to reach the TRS because of the engine bay being lower than the chassis frame line.. This is what made impossible to see how the Locking Mechanism of the TRS Connector worked and Since the Internet didn´t have a Picture of it? It was impossible to decipher from the top end.

My Advice is to do this from the Wheel well fender side... This is INSANELY easier than the convoluted way they OEM Manual states, If you do it this way you will only have to remove the driver side wheel, A couple of plastic push pins and 2 bolts max to get access to the TRS.. This way also makes it easier to pull the Locking Connector of the TRS.


So those are my notes on the TRS Change Procedure..
DIY Difficulty Scale: (Using the OEM Way = 8/10) (Using the Wheel Well Mode = 3/10)
Fixed the pics.
 

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I got the Check Transmission message on my MDX early this morning. Took it to Advance Auto Parts to have them read the code, and it was P1717. Looks like I'll be ordering this part soon. I'm just glad it wasn't anything majorly wrong with the transmission. I'm also glad I found this thread on replacing it. This site is so valuable.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Are you going to DIY it? if that is the case good luck! and remember! do it from the bottom!


I will paste my DIY tip quote here again just to keep it the pics and DIY steps on the same page:

Regarding Time? Probably it is an extra 10 minutes or so to remove the battery tray and connectors Vs the Wheel Well Method.

But the amount of strain to work on the TRS from the Top is not comparable with time, The Cables do not get out of your way once you remove the securing latches, You will have to move them around often specially the Fuse Box which just leaves hanging there and it likes to fall into the new hole created by the lack of Battery Base..

The wheel well method makes it easier and dare I say Comfortable? So it saves a little time and makes changing the TRS a breeze.

Another DIY TIP if you are doing it from the Wheel Well is to Just undo the 10mm bolt Holding the Shift Metal Lever to the TRS and move the Lever still attached to the shift cable away from the TRS you can make it rest on the lower radiator tube and that is how I did it, Removing the shift cable from the Metal Lever will create an obstruction because the shift cable alone cannot rest on the radiator tube (It cannot reach it) so that is why the OEM Manual says to undo the Shift Cable Bracket which can only be done from the TOP Method anyway.

My DIY Steps Are:
1.- Jack Up the Car and remove the Driver Wheel.
2.- Put on a Jack Stand in the Front Chassis jacking point to hold the car securely.
2*.- I left the car in PARK all of the procedure..
3.- Remove the Lower Wheel well cover by undoing the 10mm bolt and 2 plastic push pins in the bottom, There are 2 more securing the lower portion of the Cover to the Lower Engine Guard and Chassis in the Wheel Well (Just need to remove 4 push pins in total. Remove the Philips Screw that secures the bumper and you can now bend the lower plastic cover a little bit on top of the Brake Caliper and it will stay there.
4.- You can now clearly see the TRS on the side of the transmission, Remove the 10mm bolt holding the Transmission Ground cable to make more room (Optional).
5.- Remove the Shift Cable Metal Lever, You will have to punch the securing metal tab on the Nut with a Flat Screwdriver and a Hammer... Honda in all of its glory decided to punch the TOP securing tab on the Nut! Undoing this from the TOP?? That would be funny to see.
6.- There are 3 parts on top of the Shifter Metal Lever (Do not lose them) The correct order is:
(NUT > Metal Securing Tab > Pressure Washer > Shifter Metal Lever > TRS).
7.- The TRS is held in place by 2x 12mm bolts to the transmission but there is an Extra 22mm Bolt making pressure in the Transmission TRS Shaft, You will have to undo it by punching out the metal securing tabs holding the 22mm nut and holding the TRS shaft with a 6mm Crescent Tool so you can undo the 22mm bolt without stressing the trans shaft.
8.- Now with the TRS Removed you can undo the Cable by following the pictures I posted before.
9.- Reverse Procedure to Install it!
10.- Since you have your battery installed you can now Adjust the Neutral Position! Do this by securing the 12mm bolts on the TRS just a tad firm so you can move it but wont wobble out of position easily, Go inside your car Open Key in Position II (DONT START THE ENGINE) and put the shift lever in NEUTRAL adjust until the Neutral (N) Light in the dashboard remains ON at all times while the shifter is in Neutral, Wobble the shifter back and forth (Dont change gears) and all the slack in the shifter must stay in neutral position, If the lights suddenly goes off with the slack adjust the TRS until it doesn´t.. Once you find the sweet spot secure the TRS bolts to and your done with it..

This is what I don´t get with the TOP Method.. You don´t have the battery installed so how the heck are you supposed to Adjust the TRS in real time? Using Jumper Cables for the battery? This part didn´t make sense in the manual method.


That is basically it.. It looks like its a ton of work by reading it but its very easy in reality.
 

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Yeah, I'm going to try to DIY it. If it comes back, that is. Shortly after my post the light went off. I did a lot of driving yesterday and it never came back on. Even this morning on the way to work the light didn't come on. Considering it's a relatively inexpensive part I may just go ahead and buy it and replace it. I've got a list of things that need to be repaired or replaced soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yeah I had some days when it did nothing.. It will light up if you cycle through the gears quickly.
 

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logisticalstyle, have you finished the replacement? Did it go as smooth as skirmich? I have been getting the P1717 about every other month for a day or two and then it goes off. Car has over 200,000 miles so probably needs replacing. Thanks!
 
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