Transmission fluid flush or change?
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The transmission does not have a "Pan" to take out as its a sealed unit... There are 2 methods to DIY Flush the transmission:
3x3 (Drain and Fill x 3 Times).
Power Flush (Removing an line from the ATF Warmer to fully drain all the ATF from the transmission).
The 3x3 is the recommended and easiest to do.
3x3 (Drain and Fill x 3 Times).
Power Flush (Removing an line from the ATF Warmer to fully drain all the ATF from the transmission).
The 3x3 is the recommended and easiest to do.
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If you can buy a set of RAMPs you can make the 3x3 even easier...
Just ramp the car up, drain the transmission.. Fill about 3 quarts so you can start the car and lower the car to level it up and top it off.
All in all you can do a drain and fill with a ramp in about 15 min. Do it 1 time each week for 3 weeks and you are done with the 3x3.
If you have to jack up the car then yes its a little more time consuming.
Just ramp the car up, drain the transmission.. Fill about 3 quarts so you can start the car and lower the car to level it up and top it off.
All in all you can do a drain and fill with a ramp in about 15 min. Do it 1 time each week for 3 weeks and you are done with the 3x3.
If you have to jack up the car then yes its a little more time consuming.
Acura's maintenance procedure for the transmission 14 and 15 models is a single drain and fill with 3.3 quarts. You don't necessarily have to do a drain and fill 3 times, but it's not a bad idea and shows that you're already thinking ahead. If you're planning to do a 3x3, I would at least get that 10th quart so that you can top off the fluid when checking the level after the final fill.
If you've ever done an oil change, I would say that a drain and fill is comparable in terms of difficulty; it's not hard. Here's a DIY thread I posted about changing the transmission fluid:
http://www.mdxers.org/forums/94-thi...nsfer-case-fluid-change-2014-2015-models.html
In my experience, the hardest part of the job is breaking the drain plug loose. Sometimes they seem to be fastened on there super tight from the factory. A warmed up transmission and long handled wrench make it easier to get it loose.
If you're not well versed on the proper ways to raise and secure a vehicle, I'd recommend that you do some reading on the topic. I do understand being nervous about crawling under a 2+ ton vehicle that's up off the ground. Provided that you take all the proper precautions, the risk of getting crushed by the car should be quite low.
By the way, the six speed transmissions in the 14 and 15 models do have an external filter that can be changed if so desired. However, the filter change isn't included in the transmission maintenance prodedures. I think that most Honda and Acura service advisors don't even know about it.
If you've ever done an oil change, I would say that a drain and fill is comparable in terms of difficulty; it's not hard. Here's a DIY thread I posted about changing the transmission fluid:
http://www.mdxers.org/forums/94-thi...nsfer-case-fluid-change-2014-2015-models.html
In my experience, the hardest part of the job is breaking the drain plug loose. Sometimes they seem to be fastened on there super tight from the factory. A warmed up transmission and long handled wrench make it easier to get it loose.
If you're not well versed on the proper ways to raise and secure a vehicle, I'd recommend that you do some reading on the topic. I do understand being nervous about crawling under a 2+ ton vehicle that's up off the ground. Provided that you take all the proper precautions, the risk of getting crushed by the car should be quite low.
By the way, the six speed transmissions in the 14 and 15 models do have an external filter that can be changed if so desired. However, the filter change isn't included in the transmission maintenance prodedures. I think that most Honda and Acura service advisors don't even know about it.
I didn't change mine when I did the ATF change.
It's up to you if you want to change it; it depends on how particular you are when it comes to vehicle maintenance. Acura has no recommended interval for changing the filter, so my guess is that it's intended to be a "lifetime" part.
I had the same filter on an Accord I used to own, and I changed it at 60K. I don't think it made a difference, but that was a different car with a different transmission (although I believe the filter was exactly the same).
It's up to you if you want to change it; it depends on how particular you are when it comes to vehicle maintenance. Acura has no recommended interval for changing the filter, so my guess is that it's intended to be a "lifetime" part.
I had the same filter on an Accord I used to own, and I changed it at 60K. I don't think it made a difference, but that was a different car with a different transmission (although I believe the filter was exactly the same).
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Transfer case and rear differential ( AWD only ) are NOT the same, and they require different fluids.
Transfer case is at the front of the vehicle and requires GL-5 Hypoid Gear Oil. 75W90 or thereabouts will be fine.
Rear differential requires Honda/Acura specified fluid, DPSF. Don't use anything else.
BTW, AFAIK the only ATF filter is internal ( technically, it's sandwiched between the transmission housing and engine block, so it's inaccessible without separating those components... ). NOT a maintenance item.
Transfer case is at the front of the vehicle and requires GL-5 Hypoid Gear Oil. 75W90 or thereabouts will be fine.
Rear differential requires Honda/Acura specified fluid, DPSF. Don't use anything else.
BTW, AFAIK the only ATF filter is internal ( technically, it's sandwiched between the transmission housing and engine block, so it's inaccessible without separating those components... ). NOT a maintenance item.
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Transmission needs a 3x3 because you only drain about 40% of the total transmission ATF capacity at each drain procedure.
Transfer case is just drain and fill as you drain the full capacity of the transfer case.
The rear differential uses standard 3/8th sockets so you just need an extension and ratch. To fill the rear diff you will need a hand pump which are around 7-10bucks at any autozone. The rear differential uses special dealership only SH-AWD Diff Fluid! DO NOT USE STANDARD OFF THE SHELF GEAR OIL!!!!
Transfer case is just drain and fill as you drain the full capacity of the transfer case.
The rear differential uses standard 3/8th sockets so you just need an extension and ratch. To fill the rear diff you will need a hand pump which are around 7-10bucks at any autozone. The rear differential uses special dealership only SH-AWD Diff Fluid! DO NOT USE STANDARD OFF THE SHELF GEAR OIL!!!!
Andy, It sounds like may be a novice at this, so please forgive me if you already knew this: Be sure to remove the filler plug before removing the drain plug. This is to prevent draining out all of the fluid but then not being able to loosen the filler plug to refill it -- an unfortunate predicament indeed!
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