Dealer offered me less than half blue book, or about 40% what I sold what would have been my trade-in to the first person who looked at it.
I don't blame him, though. My trade was a clunker (actually ran really well, but the exterior/interior had 14 years of abuse on it). It didn't fit at all with the type of used vehicles he sold. I appreciated that he was honest with me in saying he really didn't want it, but if I forced it on him here's what he'd give me.
When I got my MDX 1 month ago, I asked about trade-in. The used card manager showed me a Kelly Blue Book price of about $7k but he only offered me $3k! and kept talking about all the bull**** like they need to do this and that... I wasn't looking for $7k when I checked the trade-in price from dealer but I didn't expect to get low offer like that. Anyway, I sold the car to the 1st buyer 1 day after my car ad. is shown for $7100. I might get higher offer but it is good for me and I am happy
As a general rule you will always come out better by selling your vehicle on your own rather than trading in to the dealer. If the dealer gives you a great price for your trade that means he gave you less than he should have for a discount for your new purchase.
In the case of the MDX the discount has not existed so the Trade in value will naturally be low.
If you want to trade in to avoid the hassle of selling yourself be prepared to pay the price.
You need to understand that the Used Car Department and the New Car Department are different profit centers in the dealership. The New Car Manager and the Used Car Manager are NOT motivated to "help the other out".
When you go to buy a "common car", the "dealership" will intervene to "make the deal" [e.g. drop price on new car, up price on trade-in] and work it out later.
When you buy an MDX, they "ain't gonna budge" on the MDX price AND they know that you are going to buy the MDX. Therefore, it is up to you to work out the deal with the used car manager with "no assist" from the dealership. Now understand that the Used Car Manager wants to make a profit. Why go thru the hassle to buy your car, wholesale it, and make no money?? Therefore the Used Car Manager is going to offer you less than he can get for the car wholesale. Most wholesalers don't pay "low book", they buy "back of book" [unless it is a really hot car] because the best they can get for the car when they sell it is less than wholesale [the buyer wants to buy it way back of low book, ......].
You've got the Used Car manager trying to "make a buck" and the wholesaler trying to "make a buck". Got the picture??
Now understand that "make a buck" could be $100, $500, $1,000 etc. So are you really surprised that a Used Car Manager tries to buy your $7,000 car for $3,500?
By the way, I am NOT defending them. There are lots of jokes about used car salesmen, hmmmmm wonder why!! Additionally, there is a car wholesaler in our family. He lives VERY nicely!! Think he does that by "buying high" -- WRONG.
They succeed mostly because most people don't want to sell it themselves [it is a pain in the butt].
PS -- That "friendly service writer/advisor" at MOST dealerships is commissioned. Ever wonder why the transmission needs to be power flushed every 7,500 miles or why the air filter is dirty every 7,500 miles ...... That is largely the drive of these "service packages" that are significantly "more comprehensive" than the mfg. recommended maintenance. Of COURSE, they are simply trying to HELP you take better care of vehicle. I believe we have seen a "large varience" in the cost of a 7,500 or 15,000 mile service. Guess what, the Service Department is a third profit center at the dealership.
PSS -- Tim, please don't hesitate to shoot at this response. I won't be at all hurt to hear the dealership point of view.
Oh, I'm not gonna shoot holes in that. It's common knowledge that as a whole in a dealership environment that used car sales are much more profitable than new car sales. But you also have to take into account that all trade-ins that will eventually go to the dealership's lot have to be reconditioned and have some sort of warranty on them (called "pack" in dealer terms). As well, if it's not going to be sold on the lot, the dealer's going to take it to a wholesale auction, where they have to pay a "lane fee" to the auction house of usually about $100-$300 per car just to get them auctioned, and then unless they have a reserve, they have to let it get what it gets. And dealers can't just throw junk in an auction, because they have arbitors that the buyer can go to in the event of problems with the cars on the block. Last alternative is to clear it out to a wholesaler, where you're not going to get even close to blue book wholesale, you just want to get rid of the car. I used to work with a wholesaler many years ago.
As far as service goes, well, here's my take. My household has a total of 3 cars. I maintain them as meticulously as I can, because I know that I want them to last as long as possible. Do I do all of the services on my cars? Absolutely. I'm personally willing to spend the extra dollar to make sure everything is as it should be. Consequently, my wife's Volvo 960 is ready to roll 163,000 miles after our 900 mile trip. Still runs flawlessly, and I'd drive it across the country at a moment's notice.
I think the book that your referring to is "Black Book" that is what dealerships are looking up your car in. KBB and NADA is a joke if they show you those figures your not getting them on your trade. They are looking to give you black book value for your trade. BTW, consider the time of year. The months of say November-March are really good at the Auctions. Cars are bringing much money $$ then because all your Used Car Dealers (me and my DH included are buying up all we can get our hands on for the upcoming tax season. Right now pert. there is a no way to get prem. unless you have a piece that the dealer knows a pert. customer is looking for "his list" or a hot item like the Ody. I just got my X June 7th. I traded in 2 cars. I trade my 00 Honda Ody that was a leased vechile, the dealer (Duval Accura Jacksonville FL) gave me $$3 grand over lease payoff. Now on the hand my 99 buick lesabre (don't ask LOL) was a bit rough. It was a nice car overall but had had the rf fender repainted and the radio did not work I needed 8,500 for the payoff and I ended up with 8,000. Which was great because I ran this car through the auction 4 wks prior and it only got up to 7 on the lane And did I mention he discounted the X 800.00. I'm getting off the subject. We are on the East Coast and I'm betting it's the same on the West coast. During heighten buying periods at the auctions the dealers maybe willing to step out more for you that they would say April-Oct. The prices are so cheap right now at the auction i don't want to run a thing, we are waiting and storing our "get rid of's" till the end of the year when dealers are stocking up. And right now is the time to "buy cheap" not sell. Does this make sense to you guys?