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Hi all. I was in the middle of trying to get my front 12V outlet working again when the + and - wires briefly touched and arced causing the fuse to blow (I think). I say this because I tested the wires before had and got 11.9V without the key in the car (i.e. "always on"), but not only get about 0.04V now regardless of if the key is in, or not, or if the car is on, or not, so I think it's a fuse, right?

My question is how can I track down which fuse is blown? I've already checked the 15A one labeled 12V Acc outlet but it is still intact. I was also able to get 11.9V without the key in at all, which should narrow down the number of possible systems, but all of those functions like the locks, seat adjusters and other "always on" systems are all working fine.

Thanks.
 

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The fuse that's most likely blown is the #9 fuse in the under-dash fusebox on the passenger's side. There are two more fuses "upstream" (toward the battery) but they're both much larger, so unlikely to be damaged. This is for the same reason that if you tie a 2" thick rope to a 1" thick rope, and that to a 1/4" thick rope, and try to pick up a 100 ton weight, only the 1/4" rope will break. ;-)


There's also an "accessory power socket relay" on that same fusebox. I suppose it's always possible that it was damaged as well though I'd tend to doubt it. If you replace (or check) that fuse and don't get the power back, check the power at the console 12V accessory socket (inside the armrest box). If you have power there but not at the dash socket, it's the socket itself, or the wiring to it. If you don't have power at either AND the fuse is good, try swapping out that relay with another one (there are lots of the same relays to choose from). If swapping out a relay fixes the problem, you just have to get one (they're cheap).
 
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