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I'd agree with most people here.

My coolant looks FINE.
Best way to check the effectiveness of coolant regardless of age is with PH strips or using a voltmeter. Some error on the safe side and religiously replace there coolant when in fact it could still be good.

Same as rotors where people replace it based on miles and not by how much metal it still has left on it by measuring it.


Honda has a special for $599 for the timing belt and water pump. Most of the stuff is taken apart already so it's only 2 more hours of labor to do the rest of the pullies and such.

I bought the parts online from acuraoemparts for around $300 shipped.

Just to clarify, you spend 300 on the parts and brought it to the dealer to use as part of their $599 special for labor?
 

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A1234567

You aren't too far off. My X has 120k. I got the diff oil light. Did that. Change belt light. Had dealer do that (saved $200 by having a local Honda dealer do it, not Acura).

I then got the longest set of codes I'd ever seen, and it was a bit of a harsh surprise after fixing the belt. The computer called for trans oil, change coolant, brake fluid, and oil change. I had a radiator failure at 80k, so that covered the fresh coolant and the fresh trans fluid (actually on the second fill of "new" trans fluid). Brakes had been done last year, so the fluid was a year old only.

I had the car injection cleaned by a local mechanic...it made a difference.

Yes, the 120k services...are big...and I would worry if I didn't DIY most things.
 

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Best way to check the effectiveness of coolant regardless of age is with PH strips or using a voltmeter. Some error on the safe side and religiously replace there coolant when in fact it could still be good.

Same as rotors where people replace it based on miles and not by how much metal it still has left on it by measuring it.





Just to clarify, you spend 300 on the parts and brought it to the dealer to use as part of their $599 special for labor?
The $599 covers parts and labor for the timing belt and waterpump ONLY. I paid around $300 for the extra labor and about $300 for the extra parts that I wanted replaced.

Also replacing the coolant early gives a lot of piece of mind, no headgasket failure or anything to worry about.
 

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then you are not saving much doing that. i got it done at acura dealer for $1100 for tb, wp, tensioner, serpentine belt and coolant. replacing crankseal and cam seal would be free. i chose not to do them.

idler and adjuster would be $200 more. no labor. so a complete job at a norcal acura dealer would be 1300. spark plugs can be done at dealer for 200 more. but i simply kept the old ones. These are good for way more than 105k miles.

also got a TL as loaner for 3 days. not bad.
 

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then you are not saving much doing that. i got it done at acura dealer for $1100 for tb, wp, tensioner, serpentine belt and coolant. replacing crankseal and cam seal would be free. i chose not to do them.

idler and adjuster would be $200 more. no labor. so a complete job at a norcal acura dealer would be 1300. spark plugs can be done at dealer for 200 more. but i simply kept the old ones. These are good for way more than 105k miles.

also got a TL as loaner for 3 days. not bad.
Acura wanted upwards of 2K near me so it was around $700 in savings, and I had a honda accord touring rental which wasn't bad, actually considered buying one before my 4G TL!

Spark plugs are cheap, like $7 on sale at autozone for the NGK's. Cheaping out on them is a bad idea. The J-series engine is prone to plug ejections, esp on cylinder #5. Google it and you'll see. The plugs loosen over time and then one day are ejected damaging the head, coil pack and sometimes the hood.

I had the spark plug tube seals done, valve adjustment, plugs, coolant, water pump, timing belt, serptine belt, both idler pullies, new crank pulley, all new bolts, cam and timing seals, new valve cover and intake manifold gaskets among a few other things. I'll dig up the invoice and post.
 
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