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Discussion Starter #1
After driving 2 miles away from the house, the engine died. Short story, the timing belt snapped according to my mechanic. I've been meticulous with its maintenance. The car has just hit 200k and the 2nd belt has just under 100k on it, closer to 90k. My mechanic agrees with me that I should rebuild my engine since I know its history and babied it. a engine with 134k on it installed will run $3,200 vs rebuilding mine for $2,600.
I laugh at NATEO from another thread claiming there's no need to change the belt until it breaks! I'm just thankful to God that we were only going about 30mph after turning from a stop. I lost power everything and it would have been dangerous, if not deadly if we were on I75 which we frequent.
**** happens regardless of how careful you are and your maintenance..... Since the previous thread on the topic was closed, I decided to chime in here. Please keep all snide remarks to yourselves as this isn't going to be easy financially.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
By the way, other than the obvious, what should I have replaced while the engine is out? Are there any mods that can be easily done to help with hp or mpg? I know that question is an oxymoron...... He's going to be replacing all damaged parts as well as parts associated with a timing belt change. My engine light has been on due to a bad cat, so that'll be done. Anything else? I've had the leak under my drivers side carpet, and can't get it fixed. Had the door, fender taken off and resealed with 3M sealer to no avail. Still leaks and smells like mold when it rains! I was actually thinking of drilling a drain hole for it since the fix did not work. I'm concerned of a hole eventually rusting under my feet : )
 

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Sorry to hear about the belt. I wonder if it was contaminated at some point, or if a sub-standard belt was used for the replacement... 100k miles is awfully soon for a belt to be going south!

I'd say that they should replace everything that moves in the engine - anything that could be worn. Bearings, bushings, valve guides, valves, valve springs, etc. Have them do the water pump (a no-brainer) as well as the accessory belt and tensioner unless you JUST did it (since it will take just minutes to do with the engine out of the car). Don't let 'em get away with just replacing what was damaged by the timing belt breaking. There's really not much you can do to improve the performance or efficiency of the engine during a rebuild, at least not without compromising its longevity, or hurting the efficiency. Yes, you could always have them put in lower-compression pistons and add a turbo, but hey... it's still a big, boxy SUV and isn't going to be "fast" by any real definition of the word.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any idea who the manufacture of the timing belt is or was it purchased from Acura?
I'll ask Monday when I give my mechanic the go ahead.

After discussing it with my wife and good friend, I've decided to get my engine rebuilt. But does anyone have any input on this engine I've found online? It's from a 2006 and has 57k on it versus my 200k. it would be a swap vs. rebuild? I'll ask my mechanic about the cost difference. It includes free shipping but I'm not sure if a core swap is involved or return shipping on it if needed?

We've had the MDX since 11k, only used Mobil 1 and have done all preventative maintenance since. So I'm confident in my engine but surprised about the belt snapping. But that very low mileage engine sounds tempting......?

By the way, I'm guessing rebuilding the engine wouldn't involve taking it out of the car?
 

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...By the way, I'm guessing rebuilding the engine wouldn't involve taking it out of the car?
Yes, the engine has to come out. It would require a lift so you can drop the engine with the subframe on the ground and lift the entire car to pull it out from under.

Yes, timing belt can snap even when relatively new. After the dealer replaced my timing belt, it snapped after 40K miles, and I was in the same situation you are in right now.
 

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A proper rebuild not only involved dropping the engine out of the car, but will ultimately have the engine stripped down to a bare block which is then machined to bring all the mechanical tolerances into spec, including boring and/or honing the cylinders, line-boring the crank journals, planing the heads, machining the valve seats and pressing new valve guides, etc., etc., etc. It's a whole lot of work, but done right you can end up with an engine that's at least as good as it was when it was new. $3200 for a used 134k mile engine sounds a little high to me, but I really haven't looked at the market for these things (happily!!!) and don't know just how much labor is involved (again, happily!).
 
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