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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Money is tight and I want to do the timing belt myself. I am confident that I can do this. Question is can I just replace the belt only? I don’t want to replace the water pump and auto tensioner. Money is tight. Can I get away with this? Isn’t it the belt is the most crucial part?


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May be false economy. If the water pump fails you have to do all the labor all over again. It can also shred the new timing belt and cause it to fail and maybe bend valves.


Like Clint says: "Is this your lucky day?"
 

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When you installed the water pump did apply a very thin coat of high temp liquid seal over matting surface in addition to the rubber gasket that came with it?


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Before you spend a dime on parts; loosen the 19mm crank pulley bolt. Counter clockwise to loosen it.

If you're able to get it loose, you can tighten it back up, while you wait for your parts.

You should tighten it to 47 ft/lbs + another 60 degrees (60 degrees is less than a quarter revolution : pg. 6-11 service manual, for 2007 - 09 MDXes)

After you re-tighten it, the natural direction of the crank spin (when the engine is running) causes a self tightening effect on that bolt and that's why loosening the crank pulley bolt is sooooooooooooooo hard to do.



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When you installed the water pump did apply a very thin coat of high temp liquid seal over matting surface in addition to the rubber gasket that came with it?


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There is no need to do that, you get a new gasket with the water pump.
Liquid sealants are rarely used in Hondas.
 

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When you installed the water pump did apply a very thin coat of high temp liquid seal over matting surface in addition to the rubber gasket that came with it?


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I did hundreds of them at the dealership, and didn't bother with sealant except for a few very tight 4 cylinder applications where it was possible for the o-ring seal to get rolled off when squeezing the pump into position. Should not be needed on the J engine, but it won't do any harm. Wipe on the sealant and wait 5 minutes for it to start curing before installing the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Before you spend a dime on parts; loosen the 19mm crank pulley bolt. Counter clockwise to loosen it.



If you're able to get it loose, you can tighten it back up, while you wait for your parts.



You should tighten it to 47 ft/lbs + another 60 degrees (60 degrees is less than a quarter revolution : pg. 6-11 service manual, for 2007 - 09 MDXes)



After you re-tighten it, the natural direction of the crank spin (when the engine is running) causes a self tightening effect on that bolt and that's why loosening the crank pulley bolt is sooooooooooooooo hard to do.







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Mine is 17 mm bolt. I tried that the other day and I can’t get it to budge because I don’t have enough room and leverage to move the breaker bar under the wheel splash shield. I will get a longer socket extension and support it with a jack stand and give it another try. Question. Do I need to remove the drive belt just for this? To see if I can loosen up the bolt and tighten it back before going any further?

Thank for the head up!


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is no need to do that, you get a new gasket with the water pump.
Liquid sealants are rarely used in Hondas.


Ok. I had one bad experience with my beat up 1982 bmw 325e back in 1997. I replaced the water pump and there was a leak after I put it back. It was a lot of works just to replace the water pump on that car. Everything had to come out again! That was the lesson I don’t want to repeat. That car had so much problem that I can’t afford to keep it any more because the parts are so expensive. The brake calipers lock up and caused the wheel to vibrate, the clutch leak, heat blower dead, AC dead. This car needs a resting place so I decided to drive it to the junkyard and handed them the key. I got a used 1995 Honda Civic with 90k mile from my friend’s sister after. Now I got stuck with Honda ever since.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I did hundreds of them at the dealership, and didn't bother with sealant except for a few very tight 4 cylinder applications where it was possible for the o-ring seal to get rolled off when squeezing the pump into position. Should not be needed on the J engine, but it won't do any harm. Wipe on the sealant and wait 5 minutes for it to start curing before installing the pump.


So you work for acura/Honda dealer?


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Getting the crank pulley bolt off was very hard for me. I tried a breaker bar with a jack handle on the end for leverage. I was bending the bar. Also hit it with the impact wrench. still nothing. bought a special, heavy socket used for Honda crank bolts. still nothing. Finally, used that socket with my friends heavy duty impact gun and it came loose. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Getting the crank pulley bolt off was very hard for me. I tried a breaker bar with a jack handle on the end for leverage. I was bending the bar. Also hit it with the impact wrench. still nothing. bought a special, heavy socket used for Honda crank bolts. still nothing. Finally, used that socket with my friends heavy duty impact gun and it came loose. Good luck.


How hard was it to torque the bolt back to specs?


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Getting the crank pulley bolt off was very hard for me. I tried a breaker bar with a jack handle on the end for leverage. I was bending the bar. Also hit it with the impact wrench. still nothing. bought a special, heavy socket used for Honda crank bolts. still nothing. Finally, used that socket with my friends heavy duty impact gun and it came loose. Good luck.
This seems to be very common for a lot of people. Fortunately this second time it came right off, I was so relieved after reading some of the stories. The breaker bar and cranking of the engine seems to work for a lot of people.
 

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A Couple Ideas on the crank bolt.


The bolt is a pain, I've done a few of these and the biggest issue is they're in there for along time.


Autozone will loan the balancer tool for free. I've actually bent one of those.


If you just can't get it to come loose take it to a tire shop. have them break it loose with their impact wrench then torque it down for the drive home. it will come off easier if it's only been on for a few miles.


Some people will try heating the bolt, before doing that consider that the balancer has rubber in it and the shaft your heating is in contact with the seal at the oil pump.


I use the Gates kit, Gates made the original belts. And I've never had one of their pumps fail.
 

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Milwaukee "High Torque" 1/2 cordless Impact Wrench.
I have done 3 timing belts with it and it removes the crankshaft bolt like its nothing..
Do not waste your time with air impact wrench, The Milwaukee High Impact Wrench has more Torque than any Air Impact Wrench available today.. More than overkill for any other bolt in the car, I reckon even the "Medium Torque" from Milwaukee will remove the Crankshaft bolt with a little effort.

Also most Tire Shops air impact tools wont have the torque to remove the Crankshaft Bolt, Guaranteed..
They buy the cheapest air tools available in bulk because Lug Nuts require very little torque..
 
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