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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking about switching from mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 EP to 10W-30. Will the thicker viscosity make the engine work harder. I am thinking that it may help reduce oil consumption and the oil life will last longer because I am changing oil every 10k miles.


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Unless it's using the oil right at start-up, there should be no difference. They both have the same viscosity at operating temp. I'd consider a high mileage formula before making that move, especially if you're in a cold climate. Did you notice any difference when switching from 20 to 30?
 

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The point of a multi-viscosity oil is the get the thinner weight at cold start when most of the engine wear occurs (for faster top end delivery of oil that has drained down) then it thickens as it heats to provide better protection at normal operating temp. Highly unlikely that changing to 10W30 will reduce oil consumption in the short run and good chance it increases oil consumption in the long run. BTW, isn't 5W20 the spec for the 2011?
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I can’t see any difference switching from 20 to 30. After reading so many posts online I come to the conclusion that my car makes the knocking/pinging sound due to excessive oil burning/consumption.
The good news is the knocking/pinging (occurred only during acceleration) and only occurred in the first 1-2 minutes of starting and driving after it had been stopped for 10-60 minutes. No knocking/pinging when the car starts and drive from COLD engine ( like it had been parked for more than 5 hours


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@2011BlackUbmMDX, as you know, the 5W is thinner than 10W. 10W is better suited for a hotter climate or engines that seem to run hot, like a modified engine.
That said, if your outside temps do not go below -15 deg Farenheit, you can safely use a 10W with no issues. I run 5W-30 Pennzoil Platinum in two of my J35s and I live in NJ with no issues.

Auto-ignition (knock) temperature of a synthetic oil is around 680 deg-F while an unleaded fuel is around 1350~1550 deg-F. So severe oil burning will cause knock.

Have you had your valves adjusted? You may want to consider, if your knock is bad, doing a compression and a leak down test of the engine. The numbers will tell all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@2011BlackUbmMDX, as you know, the 5W is thinner than 10W. 10W is better suited for a hotter climate or engines that seem to run hot, like a modified engine.

That said, if your outside temps do not go below -15 deg Farenheit, you can safely use a 10W with no issues. I run 5W-30 Pennzoil Platinum in two of my J35s and I live in NJ with no issues.



Auto-ignition (knock) temperature of a synthetic oil is around 680 deg-F while an unleaded fuel is around 1350~1550 deg-F. So severe oil burning will cause knock.



Have you had your valves adjusted? You may want to consider, if your knock is bad, doing a compression and a leak down test of the engine. The numbers will tell all.
Maybe my engine is getting hot because I am driving Uber. My coolant temp is 175-183 F. I drove almost 5 hours straight and a few stops here and there and waiting for pickup.

I did a compression test about a year and all the cylinders looked fine and the same, around 155 psi. Haven’t done the leak down test yet.

My question why the knocking only occurred in the first 1-2 minutes and gone as I continued driving .


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If you want to switch oil, try Ravenol DXG 5W-30. Expensive though. Company rated NOACK at 6%. PQIA tested result at 6.8% NOACK. Maybe I will try on my next change. Also, use oil that has lower VI (<160).

The knocking may be result from the engine oil viscosity shearing. Before last oil change, I poured in 1/2 qt MMO. About 100mi into it, the engine exhibits rattling/scraping (knocking?) sound during cold acceleration around 2500-3000 rpm. After 300 or so miles, I changed the oil and the weird sound is gone. What happened was MMO lower the viscosity, to what I don't know - I was using FS Maxlife 5W30 at the time. Probably not related to your issue.

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Discussion Starter #9
If you want to switch oil, try Ravenol DXG 5W-30. Expensive though. Company rated NOACK at 6%. PQIA tested result at 6.8% NOACK. Maybe I will try on my next change. Also, use oil that has lower VI (<160).

The knocking may be result from the engine oil viscosity shearing. Before last oil change, I poured in 1/2 qt MMO. About 100mi into it, the engine exhibits rattling/scraping (knocking?) sound during cold acceleration around 2500-3000 rpm. After 300 or so miles, I changed the oil and the weird sound is gone. What happened was MMO lower the viscosity, to what I don't know - I was using FS Maxlife 5W30 at the time. Probably not related to your issue.

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What is MMO? Does your knocking sound went away after 1-5 into continued of driving none stop?


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Discussion Starter #13
I am using Mobil 1 5w-30 extended protection. It is at 9500 miles since last oil change. I remember now that I added 1/2 qts of MMO. Maybe the oil is losing its viscosity at this point? I will change the oil soon and see if the knocking go away.


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In my experience doing yearly oil changes, Yes. When at its max Mobil 1 EP tends to evaporate more easily so when I am close to 15K on the oil change I need to top it off more often (Like once every 1 month around 0.1q) to reach the desired fill.
 

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I have exactly the same problem. So what is the solution?


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My situation was oil thinning out caused by MMO. I was using MMO to do engine flush 300 mi before changing oil. Fresh oil solved the knocking sound. Maybe you shorten OCI, an oil burning j37 shear down oil rapidly after 3-4000 mi.



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Discussion Starter #16
In my experience doing yearly oil changes, Yes. When at its max Mobil 1 EP tends to evaporate more easily so when I am close to 15K on the oil change I need to top it off more often (Like once every 1 month around 0.1q) to reach the desired fill.


I always top it off about 1/2 qts of oil at every 1000 miles became the oil level is at mid point on the dipstick.


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Discussion Starter #18
Based on your information I think I am running too long before next oil change. I am going back with 5 or 7 thousands miles oil change interval instead of 10k. I have this knocking as my oil life approaching 8k miles. If this is the case then that is good news. A few years ago I always do the 3000 miles OCI and I had never problem with the engine locking.

However, why the knocking doesn’t keep going on as you continue to drive. Why it only occurred in the 1-3 minutes and then went away as you continue driving?

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Discussion Starter #19
Nzone, question about MMO. How much does it need in the engine and driving how many miles before doing the oil change?


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Have you tried restore?
 
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