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Discussion Starter #1
How do you support the engine if you are going to remove the oil pan and timing belt at the same time in order to remove the oil pump without using Honda special tool!


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First time I hear about supporting the J-Series to remove the pan.. You are probably seeing a FSM but in real life you don´t have to do any of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First time I hear about supporting the J-Series to remove the pan.. You are probably seeing a FSM but in real life you don´t have to do any of that.


To remove the oil pump you have to remove the timing and oil pan . When you remove the Timing belt you have to support the engine under the oil pan but how are going going to remove the oil pan


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Probably the right way to do it is with an engine hoist. But I don't think the lift "eyes" are installed on this engine/transmission. Honda treats them as special tools IIRC.

There are a few ways to get killed or maimed working on cars, and this is one of them. Proceed with caution!
 

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Where did you get you have to support the engine to do the T-Belt job??? Because you remove the side engine mount? That mount is designed to control AXIAL movement not Radial Movement like the primary engine mounts.. That mount does not support the weight of the engine.. So there is no reason to support the engine at all. That is also true for the oil pan and engine oil pump replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where did you get you have to support the engine to do the T-Belt job??? Because you remove the side engine mount? That mount is designed to control AXIAL movement not Radial Movement like the primary engine mounts.. That mount does not support the weight of the engine.. So there is no reason to support the engine at all. That is also true for the oil pan and engine oil pump replacement.


Step 6



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First time I hear about supporting the J-Series to remove the pan.. You are probably seeing a FSM but in real life you don´t have to do any of that.
Again.. And I´ve done many T-Belt jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Honda wants you to use this special to hoist the engine while to remove the oil pump.



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That is probably more likely of a legal issue with the Technician doing the work as opposed to be actually of any use for the procedure..
Once you are working it you will know why there is no use for an engine support hanger.. The Engine has absolutely no play once you remove the side engine mount because the main engine mounts are what holds 100% of the engine weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That is probably more likely of a legal issue with the Technician doing the work as opposed to be actually of any use for the procedure..

Once you are working it you will know why there is no use for an engine support hanger.. The Engine has absolutely no play once you remove the side engine mount because the main engine mounts are what holds 100% of the engine weight.


Ok. I check it


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provided the other "side" mount (attached to the trans which is attached to the engine) is left untouched the engine shouldn't move around much at all. i have used a hoist when swapping motors which would work great for this too if you still feel you need something.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Maybe just for precaution I would do in these orders:

1. Remove the oil pan
2. Remove the timing belt
3. Remove the oil pump
4. Install the oil pump with with the new liquid seal and gasket
5. Replace the time belt and hydraulic tensioner
6. Mount back the side engine mount
7. Install drive belt tensioner, crankshaft pulley, and drive belt
8. Install the oil pan
9. Wait 12 hours, pour the oil in and start the engine
10. Run the engine for 30 minutes without the timing belt cover to check for any leak
11. Remove the drive belt, crankshaft pulley, and tensioner.
12. If everything looks ok install the timing belt covers, tensioner, crankshaft pulley, and drive belt


Do I miss any step here. I know I didn’t mention water pump because I don’t want to do it. I think water pump last a long time.


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you might be the only case ive ever heard of who wants to go through the hassle of replacing the OIL pump and all timing belt service components but wants to skip the WATER pump. just do it man, it involves 2% more work maybe? you really might be a troll lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
you might be the only case ive ever heard of who wants to go through the hassle of replacing the OIL pump and all timing belt service components but wants to skip the WATER pump. just do it man, it involves 2% more work maybe? you really might be a troll lol


I am not trolling. I am trying to minimize the variables. Since you said so I will do it. I will order the Aisin kit, do the t-belt and if I see any leak from the oil pump in there again I will go a head and bite the bullet and do the oil pump resealing. But whatever the case I have to get rubber gasket and liquid gasket for the oil pump, the oil pan, oil filter solenoid, metal gaskets for the exhaust ready just in case. Right? Do the steps I outlined look good?


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If you are reusing ur current pump you will need the front main seal, the pickup tube seal, the oil filter foot seal, the seal for the main oil galley feed. You will also need the coolant crossover pipe seal for the water pump if you do that. The exhaust seals are meh, do them if you want. Just my opinion.


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Discussion Starter #16
If you are reusing ur current pump you will need the front main seal, the pickup tube seal, the oil filter foot seal, the seal for the main oil galley feed. You will also need the coolant crossover pipe seal for the water pump if you do that. The exhaust seals are meh, do them if you want. Just my opinion.


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Front main seal is pulley end crankshaft oil seal?

I attached the diagrams showing all the o-rings and gasket needed to be replaced. These are the one you are referring to right? I don’t know where is the coolant crossover pipe seal are.



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yes the only one not pictured is the filter foot seal and the coolant crossover tube seal. fun fact, the front main seal on almost every engine will be the one on the crank pulley side, as this is the "front" of the engine if it were mounted longitudinally, also, this is the number 1 main journal/bore.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yes the only one not pictured is the filter foot seal and the coolant crossover tube seal. fun fact, the front main seal on almost every engine will be the one on the crank pulley side, as this is the "front" of the engine if it were mounted longitudinally, also, this is the number 1 main journal/bore.


Can you show me where is the coolant crossover when you have time? Thanks!

Is this the filter foot seal?



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