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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are they safe to drive with? Why these tires have more wear on the edges on the front? Is it because I do a a lot of turning doing UberEat?




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Add more pressure to the tire, the center will touch more the road. Inflate around 34-35 psi with cold tire. That will help you for a while. The tire will be totally unsafe once you see the threads.

On a side note, 10% over pressure was tested by mythbusters to improve gas mileage in city driving

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Add more pressure to the tire, the center will touch more the road. Inflate around 34-35 psi with cold tire. That will help you for a while. The tire will be totally unsafe once you see the threads.

On a side note, 10% over pressure was tested by mythbusters to improve gas mileage in city driving

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Here is my current pressure



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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am about to get a new set of tires and would like to address the issue before putting them on


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New tires... and you will want to check the alignment as well.
 

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New tires... and you will want to check the alignment as well.
Agree, check alignment as I now see there is more wear just on the outer side of the tire.


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Wear like that is caused by misalignment. If the wheels were perfectly aligned you'd have to be driving in a continuous circle on a skid pad to see wear like that only on the outside edge of the tire.
Wear isn't the only sign of a bad tire though. Tire age can significantly reduce the effectiveness of the rubber compound, so consider that as well. If that set is 5+ years old, it's time to replace them.
At a minimum, get an alignment and rotate the tires every 5,000 miles. Regular rotations spread the wear evenly across all 4 tires, effectively increasing the lifespan of the whole set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wear like that is caused by misalignment. If the wheels were perfectly aligned you'd have to be driving in a continuous circle on a skid pad to see wear like that only on the outside edge of the tire.
Wear isn't the only sign of a bad tire though. Tire age can significantly reduce the effectiveness of the rubber compound, so consider that as well. If that set is 5+ years old, it's time to replace them.
At a minimum, get an alignment and rotate the tires every 5,000 miles. Regular rotations spread the wear evenly across all 4 tires, effectively increasing the lifespan of the whole set.
I got the alignment at Honda dealer about three months ago after I replaced the front struts, inner and outer tie-rods. Maybe they didn’t do a good job. Prior to that I didn’t have any issues


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I got the alignment at Honda dealer about three months ago after I replaced the front struts, inner and outer tie-rods. Maybe they didn’t do a good job. Prior to that I didn’t have any issues


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That was a terrible alignment job or the machine is not calibrated


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That was a terrible alignment job or the machine is not calibrated


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When I was there the guy told me my alignment was WAY off. And I was thinking how it could be way off because I was taking care to make sure I counted the correct rotation when putting back the new tie rods. You are right maybe his alignment machine was out of calibration. Not going back there anymore.


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I got the alignment at Honda dealer about three months ago after I replaced the front struts, inner and outer tie-rods. Maybe they didn’t do a good job. Prior to that I didn’t have any issues


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If all of that tire wear occurred after 3 months of driving, that is a big problem.

If the tire was already that worn before the alignment, then an alignment wouldn't be able to fix the damage already done, but would prevent more bad wear from occurring.
Always always always get the alignment results from the shop that does it. It will show you what it was before and after, it's the only proof the work was done properly.
 
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If all of that tire wear occurred after 3 months of driving, that is a big problem.

If the tire was already that worn before the alignment, then an alignment wouldn't be able to fix the damage already done, but would prevent more bad wear from occurring.
Always always always get the alignment results from the shop that does it. It will show you what it was before and after, it's the only proof the work was done properly.
Not necessarily that the work was done properly, just that the work was done. If a inexperienced tech mis-mounts the alignment brackets to the wheels, his initial zero will be way off. And it doesn't take much to be off. Hence, "When I was there the guy told me my alignment was WAY off " comment.
Did you do the struts and tie rods yourself or Honda?
How did the car drive after the alignment 3 months ago?
Is the wear just on one tire?
I agree, is a toe in problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not necessarily that the work was done properly, just that the work was done. If a inexperienced tech mis-mounts the alignment brackets to the wheels, his initial zero will be way off. And it doesn't take much to be off. Hence, "When I was there the guy told me my alignment was WAY off " comment.
Did you do the struts and tie rods yourself or Honda?
How did the car drive after the alignment 3 months ago?
Is the wear just on one tire?
I agree, is a toe in problem.
1. I did the front struts and tie rods myself
2. Normal. Feel Just like before the alignment and struts/tie rods replacement. Even after struts and tie rod replacement it drive normal and straight.
3. The wear seems more aggressive on front passenger side.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If all of that tire wear occurred after 3 months of driving, that is a big problem.

If the tire was already that worn before the alignment, then an alignment wouldn't be able to fix the damage already done, but would prevent more bad wear from occurring.
Always always always get the alignment results from the shop that does it. It will show you what it was before and after, it's the only proof the work was done properly.
They gave me a print out and I had to asked for it. And I was kind of WTF? Typically, other shop give you automatically.



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I have replaced struts, axles, inner and outer tie tods and lower control arms without having to have alignment. All these changes at different dates between 125K miles and 155K miles. My tires are still wearing even.

I used to count turns when replacing tie rods and always ended off range and had to get new alignment. Then, I changed technique to replicating measurement. Using a caliper, I measure the distance between the locknut and the grove where the bellows rest. I measure again and again to confirm a consistent and repetitive measure. Then, remove old tie rod and install a new one verifying to install it with same distance as before. I adjust the tie rod until distance is the same as before.


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have replaced struts, axles, inner and outer tie tods and lower control arms without having to have alignment. All these changes at different dates between 125K miles and 155K miles. My tires are still wearing even.

I used to count turns when replacing tie rods and always ended off range and had to get new alignment. Then, I changed technique to replicating measurement. Using a caliper, I measure the distance between the locknut and the grove where the bellows rest. I measure again and again to confirm a consistent and repetitive measure. Then, remove old tie rod and install a new one verifying to install it with same distance as before. I adjust the tie rod until distance is the same as before.


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I will use your method next time I replace out tie rods.. Even after front struts replacement you don’t need an alignment?


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I will use your method next time I replace out tie rods.. Even after front struts replacement you don’t need an alignment?


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That is correct. Our MDX really does not have caster adjustment points. As far as camber, it is all about the strut angle with the knuckle. That is why they recommend to load up the strut before tightening the strut bolts to the knuckle. I always make sure the knuckle goes towards the inside of the vehicle. If camber and caster are out of spec, there most be some bent in the body or suspension components. As far as toe, practically only gets off when replacing inner or outer rods. By the way, now I replace them at the same time, inners and outers all together including bellows, clamps and nylon spacers. If original rod set was good for 150K miles in about 12 years with just a minimal looseness, a new original Honda set should give me the same amount of miles free of any premature failure. This means I do not wait for the wear to be too obvious at tires. I replaced them aftet starting to hear metal noises. That is how I keep my autos at top operating conditions.

Even fuel-ratio sensors (O2), I replaced them at 150K miles before having any alarm. As a matter of fact, that was 50K miles over manufacturer sensor’s life span specification of 100K miles. I trully believe in preventive maintenance to minimize corrective repairs when I don’t need/want them to happen.


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Replace them. Terrible alignment job three months ago. Looks like too much toe in.

I doubt the alignment shop will care, but you could ask them if they want to make it right. And then have it checked again at the place you buy the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I called around and FireStone seems to be the cheapest to install and mounted bring in tires - $25-30/tire


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