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Discussion Starter #1
My wonderful wife gave me some goodies. When I screwed the genuine plastic $88 shiftknob on, about 1/4 inch of thread remained uncovered! This forum mentioned that some were using black tape to cover the exposed threads. Bah! Humbug! So I spent an hour and a half on the lathe, turning this keen ferrule from a bar of stainless:
(Anything worth doing is worth overdoing)
 

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Overkill is better than underkill any day of the week! Looks great!
 

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Shootist:

I have a knob coming this week and wrestled with the exposed thread issue on a $90 shift knob. I figured that I could come up with something that hid the threads and gave the knob a finished look.

Your modification is the best that I have seen, very professional looking.

You wouldn't be interested in making another, would you?

Any advice on making one?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
wit said:
Shootist:

You wouldn't be interested in making another, would you?

An Hour and a Half- it's the kind of thing you do as a labor of love, that you couldn't possibly buy.
I may have a straight SS ferrule with a flange- I'll look in the parts box on Saturday.
I think the best replacement would be a black plastic spacer, about 3/8 to 1/2 inch in diameter, about 3/8 - 1/2 inch thick, with a 5/16 inch hole. It would be gap CA glued to the chrome plastic piece at the bottom of the shiftknob. Lowe's has things like this in their bolts and nuts section.
 

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a great job that....

shootist,

this is a great job that you should not have had to do!

i can't even believe that acura would fabricate an upgraded shift knob that did not fit perfectly-very strange.

regards,

chris
 

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Is it really plastic vs. wood?
 

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Thanks for the advice. I understand the time you spent to fabricate this modification, but it looks great. Unfortunately, I am not very proficient on a lathe or I would attempt something like this. We'll see what we can locate to cover the gap.

It's too bad Acura hasn't addressed the issue with their supplier yet.
 

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I installed the burlwood shift knob and I DON'T have exposed threads. I thought that I would but I just kept screwing it down until they were all covered. The only difference might be that I bought mine in 2001 for my CL but never installed it. It had the exact same part number as the '03 MDX so I went ahead and installed it in my X. Maybe the more recent batch have this problem? :8:
 

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As long as I've been selling these to MDXers, it's always been a problem.......

I remember doing some investigation into this wood/plastic issue a while back.....the shift knob itself is real wood....in fact you can see the grain of the wood if you take the collar off. The steering wheel, by contrast, is fiberglass.
 

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I purchased a Burlwood knob from Tim a couple of months ago and have to agree with Harmonr1. Give it a little elbow grease and keep cranking it down. I don't have any threads showing.
 

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Bought one on ebay from a Canada supplier that looks as good or better (it's a lil larger) and a perfect match. Got it for $36 including shipping. And there were abosolutely no problems covering the threads. It was a different install than the OEM's, but it completely covers it and is tight.
 

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OP MDX said:
Bought one on ebay from a Canada supplier that looks as good or better (it's a lil larger) and a perfect match. Got it for $36 including shipping. And there were abosolutely no problems covering the threads. It was a different install than the OEM's, but it completely covers it and is tight.
Would you be so kind as to provide a link if they are still available?
 

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With regard to the shift know, just remember it was not designed for the MDX and that is why the threads are exposed. It was made for the TL. Acura just figured out how to market it to others without a modification. The O-ring solution is the best one out there.
 

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imraw said:
With regard to the shift know, just remember it was not designed for the MDX and that is why the threads are exposed. It was made for the TL. Acura just figured out how to market it to others without a modification. The O-ring solution is the best one out there.
Good point. But, this one I got off ebay needs no other parts. It works perfectly.
 

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Received my Burl-wood Shift-knob from Tim yesterday.
Original knob was on there very tight, used a strap-wrench to get it started and finally removed it after many turns (didn't count but its like more than 10 turns)
Wood knob went on with many turns until it could not be turned by hand. At this point the threads were still exposed.
Got out my new favorite tool and tightened carefully down until threads were "just" covered. At this point I am shure further tightening would have stripped the threads, so easy does it the last few turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I like the Altoids installation- it's really trick.
 
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