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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Thanks for all the wonderful diy instruction.

I’m trying to fix leaky oil pump gasket. I have removed everything except oil pan and the oil pump.

Is there an easy way to separate the oil pan from the engine?

I tried using putty knife, but that darn thing is stuck tight. How fragile is the pan and the engine?? Will pry bar work? Will it hurt the pan and or the engine? Is there a spot at which I should start the prying?

Thanks!
 

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I've always had good luck with a dead blow hammer (you know, the funny looking orange mallet-like things). Of course, stop short of smacking the pan hard enough to bend it, but the sharp shock of the blow will tend to break the varnish holding it on. They're made out of pretty thin metal, though not "silly-thin"... a whole lot tougher than a fender, but not as tough as your engine block. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All I need is a some separation from which I can work. I’m just worry that the pan would bend or worse, break off.

I tried to pull down using a 6” C-clamp on the lip and the frame below it, but i see the whole engine shifting as there’s no side engine mount. ??‍♂
 

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1. Clean off the pan flange area with brake cleaner, then inspect carefully to be sure that you have removed every bolt and nut. Refer to a online parts diagram.

2. Using heat from a heat gun or propane torch at the joint between the block and pan can help.

3. Once you have an area of separation, use body filler plastic spreaders as wedges. Harbor Freight sells them cheap: https://www.harborfreight.com/Plastic-Spreader-Set-3-Pc-69563.html
 

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1. Clean off the pan flange area with brake cleaner, then inspect carefully to be sure that you have removed every bolt and nut. Refer to a online parts diagram.

2. Using heat from a heat gun or propane torch at the joint between the block and pan can help.

3. Once you have an area of separation, use body filler plastic spreaders as wedges. Harbor Freight sells them cheap: https://www.harborfreight.com/Plastic-Spreader-Set-3-Pc-69563.html
This^^^. You may have missed a bolt, especially at trans end where two are hidden.
 

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Do you think a hard-downward whack to the lip (see the attached picture) would do the job??

It’s located near the crank pulley.

Thanks!
Yeah, that looks like a pretty good spot to apply brute force. Better yet, if you can snake a prybar (or similar metal rod) in front of the engine, with it resting on that lip, a sharp tap from above should provide the incentive needed for that sticky pan to give up its deathgrip on the block. And of course, I still think a carefully-used deadblow hammer striking the pan laterally (sideways) would be pretty effective in loosening it up, too.

Good luck - let us know how this goes...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
2. Using heat from a heat gun or propane torch at the joint between the block and pan can help.
Thanks, Bluepill!
An 6" C-Clamp and propane torch work! At first, I was worry for applying fire on oil pan wet of engine oil, but after a little cleaning, it works.

Now I'm on the next step, removing the oil pump. I notice there is oil pressure switch attached to the pump. Is pulling out the wire the way to disconnect it?

Thanks again!
 

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Thanks, Bluepill!
An 6" C-Clamp and propane torch work! At first, I was worry for applying fire on oil pan wet of engine oil, but after a little cleaning, it works.

Now I'm on the next step, removing the oil pump. I notice there is oil pressure switch attached to the pump. Is pulling out the wire the way to disconnect it?

Thanks again!
The switch and VTEC solenoid come off with pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the info. I got the oil pump out and in the process cleaning up, but I notice some kind of "collar"/ring on the crank shaft hole, behind the crank seal (see picture), on which it has odd shapes and rotates along with crank shaft. I assume there is only way to fit this onto the crank shaft, but upon inspection the crank shaft has 2 flat sides not matching the collar shapes.

Any input on direction, or direction doesn't matter?

Thanks!
 

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That “collar” is the rotor (rotating gear) of the oil pump. Factory service manual and Haynes both state to align the rotor to the crank without mentioning it only goes one way where the groove is. (Full disclosure, haven’t changed that pump myself). I suspect the groove allows oil into the opposing faces in that area and maybe is there for easier fit to the crank.

You can probably google for an image of an Acura V6 oil pump and see the gears.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, it appears that it would fit either way. I'm going to take a guess and put the groove at the crankshaft's key side.
Hopefully, it is correct.

From one of the DIY video (
) at about 5:45, when he removed the old crankshaft seal, the video shows the groove to be at the crankshaft's key side (see attached picture).
 

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