Rotors That Resist Warping
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Rotors do not cause warping, Is the brake pads that cause them... Use better brake pads, If you still want to upgrade the rotors use the Stop Tech Cryo Treated rotors they are the best aftermarket option for the MDX but they are a bit pricey... If you still use cheapo brake pads you will warp any rotor.
When changing the rotors, be sure to completely clean any rust off of the hubs. Even a small bump of rust can cause the rotors to warp. A good product for the job is 3M 07480 Roloc 2" Coarse Surface Conditioning Disc. They come in a box of 25, but many auto parts stores will sell a partial box if you ask.
Make sure you properly torque the lug nuts any time you have the wheels off. In my experience as a technician, many cases of warped rotors are due to improper or uneven lug nut torque.
Make sure you properly torque the lug nuts any time you have the wheels off. In my experience as a technician, many cases of warped rotors are due to improper or uneven lug nut torque.
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Akebono = OEM
I would use something in the lines of:
EBC "Green Stuff" (Way Better than OEM Pad)
part number: DP61801 for Front Set, DP61802 for Rear Set
These are recommended for Upgrading your OEM Pads to something better, I had really good experience using EBC Brake Pads specially the Red (Performance Street Pad), Yellow Stuffs (Track Pad).. The Green Stuff is their +OEM Type material so they should work really well against all the Akebono Series, These pads will have good initial bite, great fade resistance, almost zero dust and zero noise, They will however brake fade under serious use.
They also make the Front Pads in their "EBC Green Supreme" formula which is made specifically for HD, Heavy GVW Rating SUVs and Trucks.. They are even more expensive but should outperform almost everything you can buy that isn´t a Track Specific Pad, These pads will resist fade a lot more than the Green Stuff and thus why they are only made for the Front Brakes which are what do the most braking..
The part number is DP71801 for the Fronts Only! You use normal DP61802 Green Stuffs for the Rears.
Going to the ultimate upgrade: The "Yellow Stuffs" which is a Track Oriented Pad... Now I only advise you to use these pads if you know what you are doing, These pads are INCREDIBLY aggressive and should make the ABS Kick In even on the lightest tap, They resist fade like anything else I used before, In fact I have never felt brake fade on the Yellow Stuffs even on the most hardcore Touge Sessions I made going downhill. They also have an amazing bite felt on the very initial brake pedal travel. I used these pads on my TL-S with great results, I expect them to work the same on the MDX.
The serious drawbacks of the Yellow Stuffs are: They leave TONS of Dust I kid you not you will clean your wheels on a daily basis, They don't work well in Cold as in when you first start to drive, They are very noisy when cold and are hard to get to temperature, The worst? They last very little (I eat through a set just Daily Driving it in 6 months, They are clearly designed to be Race Pads only) and will eat through your rotor very quickly. For your money I don't recommend these pads unless you want the best stopping power your money can afford.. Front set are: DP41801R, Rear set are: DP41802R
Those are my thoughts on Brake Pads...
Note: Double Check part number Fitment before you Buy.
I had some wear in my 90,000 mile, 2005 MDX rotors and to save time replaced them with Delco rotors......BIG MISTAKE! The rotors came from China and I guess they use poor metal. In any case, less than 6 months later I had warped rotors, pulsing badly. Fortunately, I save the original rotors, had them cut and have had no issues with pulsing, using the same pads. Original equipment is far better, if they are not too worn to have machined.
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83 Posts
Way back when - I worked in an auto parts store to pay for my engineering degree. Beware - those brand new aftermarket rotors can occasionally be MUCH thinner than the factory rotors are even worn.
Its worth measuring with a caliper right there at the parts counter.
On two different (older) Honda vehicles I tried several after market brands. I think they all came out of the same Chinese foundry b/c they all had some warpage issues after a while. My brake pads were Honda factory and I don't drive that car hard. My brake calipers aren't stuck either.
First rotors lasted beyond 100K and then I began a cycle of after market rotors than never lasted like the originals. That Honda has 300K miles on it. I drifted away from factory parts and eventually back to them.
I recommend considering the cost of Acura/Honda factory rotors from one of the online parts dealers. If the factory rotors were good to you for 100K miles or more, then buy them again.
Its worth measuring with a caliper right there at the parts counter.
On two different (older) Honda vehicles I tried several after market brands. I think they all came out of the same Chinese foundry b/c they all had some warpage issues after a while. My brake pads were Honda factory and I don't drive that car hard. My brake calipers aren't stuck either.
First rotors lasted beyond 100K and then I began a cycle of after market rotors than never lasted like the originals. That Honda has 300K miles on it. I drifted away from factory parts and eventually back to them.
I recommend considering the cost of Acura/Honda factory rotors from one of the online parts dealers. If the factory rotors were good to you for 100K miles or more, then buy them again.
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I have sent you a PM. I recently got a used 2011 mdx base and it need brakes.
I am not seeing DP71801 in stock at any place in US. It is in backorder or out of stock. Where are you guys buying it from?
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EBC Changed the specs of the pads I believe in 2018? They got rid of the Green Supreme in favor of the EBC YellowStuff..
So that is basically a track pad.. Its recommended for the 2011 MDX for towing and carrying heavy loads most of the time, Part number is:
Fronts: DP41801R
Rears: DP41802R
Just one thing though..
I use the YellowStuff in my race car and they DONT LAST AT ALL even if used on a Daily Driver.. Expect tons of dust on a daily basis and 1 year of pad life if lucky, They will eat your rotor fast as well... Its basically a very aggressive brake pad overall meant for track.. I love it on my race car but it makes little sense on a daily driver? They are noisy ASF when Cold and they do not stop well when Cold, They become glorious once they get hot and they have ZERO brake fade with a neck breaking initial bite.
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Thanks Skirmich.
I definetely love the initial bit which i have on my bmw inspite of lot of dust. I miss that so badly on mdx. Yellowstuff - if you advise that it could last a year or less, i have no choice but stick with DP61801.
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