Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, new MDX owner, but active forum member on the BMW forums (e90post). Have tried searching for info on best buy for installing roof rails on our '08 Base model. Have been quoted from the dealership about $650 to install the rails and cross bars which actually seemed pretty reasonable to me. I'm not opposed to doing the install myself (sounds like a Dremel is a good tool to use), but wondered where people may have bought their roof rails/crossbars aside from the dealer. I'll be adding on a ski rack this winter and have heard that the Acura ski rack is kinda crappy. Anyone have any tips on where to buy the different parts and/or tips for the install? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
I bought my roof rails and crossbars on-line.
The rails were from Acura of Peoria ( I think via eBay.com ) for $209 incl. shipping.
The crossbars were from Amazon.com for $154 incl shipping.
I then installed it all myself - it wasn't that big of a deal, just took my time.

So, add that up and subtract it from what your dealer wants and you decide if it's worth that sort of labor charge for you. It wasn't, for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
How hard is it to install the roof rails? Not too good with hands but have patience. Does it require any drilling?

The black rails are 1/2 the price of chrome..
Is there a reason?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ended up ordering from Acura Parts Super Store- Acura Accessories and Parts for sale online for a discount. Got roof rails and cross bars for $165 each and $58 for shipping. The local dealership was asking $224 for the roof rails and cross bars, plus I got out of paying tax this way as well. $388 total was much better than $448+tax.

For the install, I'm hoping to get at it some time this week, although it is supposed to be still in the 100's all week:28: I saw that someone was able to get away with not removing the roof molding and just cut it in place - think I'll try going that route since I'm planning on using the Dremel for the cuts. Any insight/advice on this game plan?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
I saw that someone was able to get away with not removing the roof molding and just cut it in place - think I'll try going that route since I'm planning on using the Dremel for the cuts. Any insight/advice on this game plan?
Must have been something on the Fantasy Channel.
You try that and let me know how, next, you're getting your roof painted for the marks you put in the paint and sheet metal.

The instructions were written the way they are for a reason. I recommend zero shortcuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,541 Posts
Anybody notice more wind noise after the install? I'm thinking about adding to 2012 we just bought but don't have a specific need for them. I like to be prepared though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,116 Posts
"I saw that someone was able to get away with not removing the roof molding and just cut it in place - think I'll try ..."



I saw that someone painted the Mona Lisa, I'm not going to try though.

Best case scenario you will save a few minutes.
Worst case scenario you will be paying to have your slip up repaired.


If you insist on leaving the strip in place, I would use a utility knife with a new blade, and change the blade after every couple of cuts. You can still use the blades for cutting cardboard, but for best control you want the sharpest edge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Anybody notice more wind noise after the install? I'm thinking about adding to 2012 we just bought but don't have a specific need for them. I like to be prepared though!

I haven't, at all.


"I saw that someone was able to get away with not removing the roof molding and just cut it in place - think I'll try ..."



I saw that someone painted the Mona Lisa, I'm not going to try though.

Best case scenario you will save a few minutes.
Worst case scenario you will be paying to have your slip up repaired.


If you insist on leaving the strip in place, I would use a utility knife with a new blade, and change the blade after every couple of cuts. You can still use the blades for cutting cardboard, but for best control you want the sharpest edge.
They're metal - the gutter strips. You need a saw to cut thru them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Installing the Silver Rack - question

I install the side rail and trying to screw in the 2 torx bolt into the "Center Stay" but the screw is way too long. Is is suppose to be like that? It should be able to screw tight, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
I install the side rail and trying to screw in the 2 torx bolt into the "Center Stay" but the screw is way too long. Is is suppose to be like that? It should be able to screw tight, right?
They're the only screws, right? Four of them - two for each side.

If they are truly too long, take a Dremel cutoff wheel to them to shorten them.

If you need, PM me and I'll remove one of the screws to measure the exact length of mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
If you need, PM me and I'll remove one of the screws to measure the exact length of mine.
Thanks for your help. They are going to send me another set because the font and back covers were full of dings and scratches:mad:. They were kind enough to overnight it. Will update tomorrow when i get another set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #16

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Replacement came next day and they sent me a whole new set. So replaced everything. The package on this set was all good and bolt package was different with the item number on the package. All parts are scratch and ding free as well. Kinda made me wonder if they sent out a used one before. Even though I had to do double work, the X looks great.

Next will be the running boards and tiniting the front window. I went to 3M dealer but their tint has a greenish tint. Anybody use 3M?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Replacement came next day and they sent me a whole new set. So replaced everything. The package on this set was all good and bolt package was different with the item number on the package. All parts are scratch and ding free as well. Kinda made me wonder if they sent out a used one before. Even though I had to do double work, the X looks great.

Next will be the running boards and tiniting the front window. I went to 3M dealer but their tint has a greenish tint. Anybody use 3M?
Glad it worked out for ya.

As for the tint --- where do you live?
There is a place I took mine called "Window Kote" and they used Solar Gard products. It has a lifetime warranty, you can clean it with Windex (which was a no-no in the past with window tint products), took them 40 minutes to install, and cost me only $80 (tint & labor).

What's your time worth? See if you can find a comparable dealer of Solar Gard tint in your neck of the woods!

Car Window Tinting, Auto Window Tinting - Solar Gard - Dealer Locator
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Fantasy Channel? Nope, just here http://www.mdxers.org/forums/37-installation-instructions-tips/27623-self-roof-rack-install.html Looks like it worked for a few folks. Guess we'll see.

so it looks like they aren't saying cut in place.. but just recommending popping it up starting from the back and not completely removing it since it is difficult to remove at the windshield end.. but def. lift and put protection underneath before cutting

I need to get roof rack also... silver would be nice but cant justify the diff in price..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Must have been something on the Fantasy Channel.
You try that and let me know how, next, you're getting your roof painted for the marks you put in the paint and sheet metal.

The instructions were written the way they are for a reason. I recommend zero shortcuts.
"I saw that someone was able to get away with not removing the roof molding and just cut it in place - think I'll try ..."



I saw that someone painted the Mona Lisa, I'm not going to try though.

Best case scenario you will save a few minutes.
Worst case scenario you will be paying to have your slip up repaired.


If you insist on leaving the strip in place, I would use a utility knife with a new blade, and change the blade after every couple of cuts. You can still use the blades for cutting cardboard, but for best control you want the sharpest edge.
For the skeptics - didn't completely remove the trim. Just propped it up, put a protective rubber mat underneath and then cut with a Dremel (fiberglass re-inforced cutting tool). Once the initial cut was made, I could easily cut the rest of the trim into the prescribed lengths. Super easy. Took about 30-45 minutes per side.
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top