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Rewiring Fogs

30508 Views 80 Replies 35 Participants Last post by  midnightMDX
I have not had the chance to try this. On the TL website they are doing it to their '02 TL's. I must warn you this is a lengthy, but very imformative post.

How to wire fog lights to come on with just the parking lights.
Okay, for anyone that wants to run their fog lights with just their parking lights on, I've figured out how to do it. I did it on my '02 TL-S and it works fine. I know some posted here before wanting to know *why* someone would want to do that (I believe in some states like CA it's illegal to run just fogs), but here in MA you can run just fogs and parking lights at dusk, in the rain, etc. Or if the fog is so thick that just fogs gives you better visibility you can run the fog/parking combo without low beams (even at night). This post may seem lengthy but I tried to be as explicit as possible. Maybe this can get added to the FAQ.
First my warning: Although is mod is 100% effective and safe to do, I absolve myself of all claims of damage to your vehicle should you not be able to complete this mod correctly (or you pound a couple 40s before trying it).

Time to complete: 20-30 minutes, even for a beginner
Tools needed: Short phillips-head screwdriver, small pair of scissors (or razor knife), some type of in-line electrical connector, crimping pliers for electrical connector

Background: Because laws vary from state to state, Acura must make sure that its lighting is 50-state compliant. So even though some states allow it, they must wire the car so the fog lights (a) cannot be operated independant of the lights, (b) cannot be operated with just the parking lights, and (c) cannot be operated when the high beams are on. This mod changes the fogs so they will now do (b) in addition to how they normally function.

What the mod does: When the fog light switch is pressed, the current wiring system has the first fog light relay (there are two--this one is in the passenger side footwell) check the position of the light stalk. If it is switched off or to parking lights, no power passes to the second relay which powers the fog lights. Once it is switched to low beams, power passes through the first relay which then in turn powers the underhood relay and sends the high voltage (20A) to the fogs and lights them. The mod rewires and fools the fog light switch into thinking the low beams are on when the light switch is moved to the parking light position.

Procedure:
1. Remove cover from driver's side fuse panel. This cover is the entire end-piece of the dash. You need to open the driver's door fully to properly access this panel. It is held in place only by pressure clips. Simply pull up and out at the very bottom to start the loosening process. Gently apply pressure to the side closest to the driver and the top and the whole cover will pop out. Notice there is a long ridge on the side closest to the firewall. Make sure that side goes in first when putting the cover back on.

2. Loosen left side of driver's underdash kick panel. Although you could remove this whole piece, you only have to loosen the left side near the fog light switch to do this mod. Looking in though the opening you just made with the cover removal, you should see two brass-looking phillips-head screws. One is close to the front of the dash, one is down behind some wires holding a long thin brace in place, closer to the firewall. This is the screw you need to remove. It is the *only* screw that holds the driver's side underdash kick panel in place. Once you've removed the screw, you can loosen the left portion of the underdash kick panel by gently pulling on the piece. There are two clips at the top front, close to the bottom of the gauge cluster. You pop these clips out and the left side will come away from the dash. *This is as far as you need to remove the underdash kick panel.*

3. Unplug wiring harness to dash light dimmer switch. This is a simple plug harness that is indexed so it only goes back one way--no need to remember how it went in. This gets the cables more free for the next step.

4. Remove the fog light switch from the dash. Easiest way is to reach in from the side and grab it gently from behind (sounds like some of my dates). Squeeze gently top and bottom and push forward (towards where driver sits). The switch should pop out and be hanging by its wiring harness. Unplug the wiring harness. Press the tab in on one side of the harness and pull gently out. Set the switch aside and push the wiring harness back through the opening and bring it out through the side so you can work on it easier.

5. Spice the wires. The wiring harness consists of an inline, 5-prong plug, which is connected by five 18-20 gauge wires that are individually exposed for about an inch and then are bunched together by some rubber conduit tubing. Take the scissors or razor knife and carefully cut open the tube to expose more of the wires. You need to cut back about two inches, because you're going to want about three inches of slack to work with. Once you've cut the tubing, fan all the wires flat. You have five wires going to the harness. They are:

1. White/Blue - Ground side of indicator light (green light that shows fogs are on)
2. Blue/Red - Power to passenger side footwell relay
3. White/Red - Power from headlight switch
4. Red/Black - Power from taillight relay
5. Red - Connection to dash light brightness controller

Wire number 4 provides power to the icon on the switch whenever the lights are on (parking lights/taillights are all on one circuit). Wire number 3 provides power through the fog switch *only* if it detects the headlight switch in the low-beam position. So what we do is splice wires 3 and 4 together, thereby bypassing the headlight switch altogether. Now, whenever the taillights have power, so will this leg of the switch and the fogs will come on when the switch is pressed.

You can use whatever means you wish to join wires 3 and 4 together. Just remember you *don't* want to cut them, just splice the two together. I highly recommend an inline automotive wiring splicer (the kind that looks like a double-barrel shotgun from the end). These types of splicers are meant to be slid on over an exisiting attached wire and a second wire's free end is slid into the other side of the connector. The connector is then crimped and the latch cover is closed. However, because both of these wires are connected at both ends, if you use this type of connector you will need to drill out or punch out the solid end of the connector so both sides are completely open on each end. Then simply slide the wires into the connector, crimp the metal blade down through the wires and snap the plastic retaining tab closed. If you're good with solder you can solder in a jumper between wires 3 and 4, but that makes the mod much more permanent. I strongly recommend a two-wire inline connector and crimp.

6. Reassemble the fog light switch. Take the wiring harness from the side and push it back through the hole in the dash where the switch goes. The wiring harness for the dash light dimmer control is sort of tied with this one so you have to make sure you keep them separate and only push the fog light harness through the hole. Snap the wiring harness onto the fog light switch (it can only go one way). Then gently push the fog light switch back into the dash opening (make sure it is right-side up--green light on top, icon on bottom).

7. Replug the wiring harness into the dash light dimmer switch. Self explanatory.

8. Reattach underdash kick panel by pushing gently in area of the clips until they snap into place (remember there are two at the top, just under the gauge cluster)

9. Replace the phillips screw in the brace for the dash panel.

10. Replace driver's side fuse panel cover. Remember to start it by inserting the side closest to the firewall first. It just snaps into place.

That's it--you're done. The only thing you've changed is now the fogs will come on whenever you have the light switch either in the parking light position or in the low beam position. NOTE: The fogs will *still* go off when you use high-beams so this mod will not cause trouble for those who live in a place where it is illegal to drive with high beams and fogs together. Making them come on *with* the high beams is a much more in-depth mod and will not be dealt with here. What's more, if your fogs are on and you shut off just the headlight switch, the fogs go off too (like the factory set-up). Remember it this way--whenever the taillights are on, the fogs can also be on (*except* for when high-beams are also on).

Whew! I know it seems like it is complicated, but this is a very easy mod. If you've crimped wires before in a car it's even easier. Most of you could do this in 20 minutes, no more than 30 minutes for a real beginner.
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1) The relay does not take 1A, doubt it takes 1/2 that but did not measure.
2) A motor losses power at about the square of the voltage drop, where a relay works fine down to the drop out voltage.
3) Voltage drop is related to the wire length, and these runs are short.
4) Temp rise might be a concern, but since I am way under the 1 A, and I feel that is a conserative number (Seems a few I looked at had 24 at 1.3 Amps) I did not worry.

I dont thing the wire is as thin as 24, but it is under 18 from what I recall.
Question???

Gentlemen,

Q: If it takes a hen and a half, a day and a half, to lay an egg and a half...how long does a roster have to sit on a doorknob to hatch a hardware store?:confused: :confused: :confused:
N_Jay said:
1) The relay does not take 1A, doubt it takes 1/2 that but did not measure.
2) A motor losses power at about the square of the voltage drop, where a relay works fine down to the drop out voltage.
3) Voltage drop is related to the wire length, and these runs are short.
4) Temp rise might be a concern, but since I am way under the 1 A, and I feel that is a conserative number (Seems a few I looked at had 24 at 1.3 Amps) I did not worry.

I dont thing the wire is as thin as 24, but it is under 18 from what I recall.
After reading this, I have to agree with Excaliber that this is not the proper place to continue this discussion, realizing the potential for a never ending debate with minimal benefit to the community. For the Good of the Order, and without acknowledging material concession, I withdraw the entirety of my questions and assertions in this regard. N_Jay, see you in another thread - take care and happy motoring.
And they lived happily ever after.:)
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So...if I ran a jumper...

...from terminal 3 of the foglight (green/red wire) to a +12volt wire that is on with parking lights, I could operate the fog lights whenever the parking lights are on?

If I then turned the fog light switch ON...

Then when the parking lights were turned on, the fogs would come on...

...and the fogs would stay on when the high beams were turned on as well, right?

This being the case, what wire in the area would be hot when the parking lights are turned on? What's an easy one to tap into in the underdash area?


Would there be a need to cut the wire or install a diode at the red/green wire (terminal 3)? I don't see any need...but I am a hobbyist level electronics installer, not a pro...I don;t see any feedback problems, do you?

Thanks,
Steve
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Sorry, it won't . . .

SuperDuty Steve said:


...and the fogs would stay on when the high beams were turned on as well, right?

The MDX is a complex and moody animal.

The fogs are not directly ground to negative. The fog negative go through the combination light switch such that it cuts out whenever the highbeams are applied.

To bypass this feature, I jumped the fog negative to the harness negative at the combination switch harness connector. No splicing or dicing, just stripped 3/8" off the ends of a gauge-matched 2" wire, opened the connector pin retaining flap, and shoved the stripped ends into the cavities, and secured them place with mini-cable ties to the piggy-back original wires [see my pics in the "always on accessory socket" thread]. Now, the fogs stay on even when the high beams are on. I don't want to give color codes because I have an '01 and the '03 might have harness changes to accomodate the autoheadlights.

Mods to the foglight switch in itself will not alter the fog cutout feature during highbeaming.
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Just to add to the complexity

Even with no mod (OEM setup), I have noticed that the fog lights do not always go off when the high beams are turned on.

If you pull the turn signal/high beam stalk toward you as if you were flashing your high beams and hold it there, the high beams are on and the fogs stay on. When you let go, the high beams turn off.

If you pull the turn signal/high beam stalk further you will hear the click of a switch and the fogs turn off. When you let go of the stalk the high beams stay on, the fogs stay off.
Re: Sorry, it won't . . .

TheyCallMeBruce said:


The MDX is a complex and moody animal.

The fogs are not directly ground to negative. The fog negative go through the combination light switch such that it cuts out whenever the highbeams are applied.

To bypass this feature, I jumped the fog negative to the harness negative at the combination switch harness connector. No splicing or dicing, just stripped 3/8" off the ends of a gauge-matched 2" wire, opened the connector pin retaining flap, and shoved the stripped ends into the cavities, and secured them place with mini-cable ties to the piggy-back original wires [see my pics in the "always on accessory socket" thread]. Now, the fogs stay on even when the high beams are on. I don't want to give color codes because I have an '01 and the '03 might have harness changes to accomodate the autoheadlights.

Mods to the foglight switch in itself will not alter the fog cutout feature during highbeaming.
Could you please tell me where to find the 'combination switch harness connector' that you referred to. A pic would be very helpful.

Thank You,
Hey all,

Just did this mod and all went well. I did notice one piece of undesireable behavior and I wanted to bounce it off the board to see if this is expected. After completing the mod, the indicator light (green) on on the fog light switch does not work. Was this powered by the red/white (cut) wire? Or do I just have something wrong?

Not a huge deal, but annoying nonetheless.

Thanks,
Ken
Just did this mod this weekend. The green indicator still works for me.
Just rewired my fogs so they now operate with both low and high beams, as detailed by PsychoKnight, above. Simple fix, 30 minutes, great results! Here's the details for '03 & '04 X's:
I have an '04 X and used the service and electrical manual to sort this all out.
You have to get to the connector for the combination light switch. It is located beneath the upper steering wheel column cover trim piece. Getting that trim piece off is the trickiest part of the whole procedure. The service manual just says to remove it, but gives no clue on how to do it.
You remove it by separating it from the lower trim piece. First lower the steering wheel to its lowest position. Then squeeze the side of the lower trim IN, relative the upper trim piece, and it will separate. There are 3 molded clips on each side, and two across the front, behind the steering wheel. It takes a LOT of finesse. I tried several times, and almost gave up. If you pry them apart, you run the risk of damaging the molded clips on the lower trim piece. The upper trim piece lifts off. Leave the lower trim piece attached (by 3 screws).
The connector for the combination light switch is located to the extreme left of the steering column, attached to the back of the combination light switch. On the '04, the connector is colored a neutral color. On the '03, the connector is grey. Separate the connector from the combination light switch by squeezing the clip on the top part of the connector, and wiggle it free. The connector for the '04 & '03 does NOT open to expose the pins, as was the case with PsychoKnight's X. Instead, find the white/blue wire in the #2 top cavity (the #1 cavity is empty), and splice that to the black wire just below it. Any Radio Shack or auto parts store has wire slice connectors that splice two wires together. Just position the two wires in the connector, and squeeze with a pair of pliers to splice. No cutting of wires necessary.
Snap the top and bottom trim pieces together, readjust the steering wheel and the job is complete. If you are a bit shy slicing wires, etc., any radio install shop can do it very easily.
I don't have a scanner to show the connector in the service/electrical manuals. The relevant pages for this procedure are from the '03/'04 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual:
1. Page 110-13 (Wiring Diagram)
2. Page 201-6 / Photo 39 (Location Of Combination Light Switch Connector)
3. Page 202-55 / #285 (Combination Light Switch Connector Terminal View)

Enjoy
:26:
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Thanks highcountry!! :29:
Gregc said:
I hate to bring this up, but this Mod could cause very serious problems. Connecting Red/Black wire to the Wht/Red wire connects 2 different circuits fused by 2 different sized fuses. The fuse for the Red/Black wire is 15a fuse 10 (this is the fuse for most running lights and the Multiplex control unit) on the passenger's side. The fuse for Wht/Red is a 20a fuse 43 (this is the fuse for the right side headlamps). Adding these 2 values together brings you up to 35amps. That means when the headlights are on you have 2 paths to get 12volt power at a total of 35 amps. This could be very dangerous if a component shorted out or drew too much current. The wires could overheat and start a fire, or you could damage the Multiplex Controller. This mod would be better if you cut the Wht/Red wire and used one of the Scotch-lock connectors to connect the switch end of the Wht/Red wire with the Red/Blk wire. That would acomplish what you want without cross wiring the circuits. You would need to insulate the cut end of the Wht/Red wire. Should work fine that way. For those that have cross wired the circuits, simply cut the Wht/Red wire past your connection and insulate both sides and you should be good! Never just tie 2 circuits together, you are inviting trouble.


Greg in Atlanta
You are very correct. This mod can have serious implications if something was to go wrong.

Don't know why anybody would want to do this anyway. they must live in very foggy country.
G Colton, this procedure has ZERO "serious implications" because you are not connecting two separate circuits together. All this procedure does is supply an additional separate ground path for the fog lights relay. No added circuits, amps, volts, etc, etc. Electrical loads on the car's circuits are not effected.
Finally, you would understand the value of flooding the roadway with as much light as possible, if you shared some of these isolated mountain roads with all manner of wildlife as I do, daily. Because the MDX's fog lights throw a wide illuminated pathway of light, think of them not as 'Fog Lights', but as 'Flood Lights'.
Ok guys, my 05 X has different color wires than the '03. I wanted to have the fogs come on with either the parking lights, or the low beams. Has anyone attempted this yet? If necessary I can list the wire colors, but was hoping someone has already sorted this project all out.
05 Wiring

Is the 05 X wiring the same as the 04? I'm planning to do this mod and want to make sure before I start.

Thanks.
Is the 05 X wiring the same as the 04? I'm planning to do this mod and want to make sure before I start.
DITTO....
Hi all,

The first post in this thread was originally posted by me waaaaay back in 2001 on acura-tl.com (now part of the Acurazine.com conglomerate). There had been multiple requests for this mod (including myself), so after some studying of the diagrams in the FSM I came up with the mod. It was done dozens of times without incident, including my '02 TL-S (which I still have BTW). I just bought a brand new '05 MDX for the wife, and I will probably do this mod to this vehicle as well.

GregC's correction about the mod is spot on. Originally I just tied the two circuits together, so the fog relay would draw power when it got the 12V feed from the taillight circuit (taillights, dashlights, etc), as opposed to waiting for the 12V from the lowbeam circuit. The wiring can certainly handle the load since the relay still draws the high power from the original source side--the 12V feed from the taillight circuit is just an on/off switch that tells it when to work and when not to. The original mod was done with the intention of making it very "undoable" by just removing the jumper and being back to stock, in case you ever wanted to do that. However, as GregC pointed out, the proper way to finish this mod is to make the cut he suggested, thus killing the relay 12V feed from the lowbeam circuit side. Obviously, it will make the mod harder to "undo" since you would now have to splice in a bridge wire to rejoin what you snipped. It definitely makes the circuit safer on paper, but in reality it's probably a non-issue. I'll be doing this mod on the '05 MDX shortly and I'll let you know if I snip the original feed or not. :)
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I actually had a 2003 TL-S that I did this mod to. It was easy and very useful. I used the fogs as DRL's.

Keep me posted as you do this mod to your 05 X.

Thanks.
Any photos ?

Sorry I am too stupid.

I couldn't find the phillip screw in my 05 X to release the underdash kick panel. anyone has photos ?

and im trying to open the steer wheel column upper cover. been trying many times. turn on signal, low, high beam, rain wiper and horn many times. everything moved but the cover just like a rock. ill keep trying.....
anyone has other trick? or photos. Is 05 same as 04?


:confused: :(
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