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1) The relay does not take 1A, doubt it takes 1/2 that but did not measure.
2) A motor losses power at about the square of the voltage drop, where a relay works fine down to the drop out voltage.
3) Voltage drop is related to the wire length, and these runs are short.
4) Temp rise might be a concern, but since I am way under the 1 A, and I feel that is a conserative number (Seems a few I looked at had 24 at 1.3 Amps) I did not worry.

I dont thing the wire is as thin as 24, but it is under 18 from what I recall.
 

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Question???

Gentlemen,

Q: If it takes a hen and a half, a day and a half, to lay an egg and a half...how long does a roster have to sit on a doorknob to hatch a hardware store?:confused: :confused: :confused:
 

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N_Jay said:
1) The relay does not take 1A, doubt it takes 1/2 that but did not measure.
2) A motor losses power at about the square of the voltage drop, where a relay works fine down to the drop out voltage.
3) Voltage drop is related to the wire length, and these runs are short.
4) Temp rise might be a concern, but since I am way under the 1 A, and I feel that is a conserative number (Seems a few I looked at had 24 at 1.3 Amps) I did not worry.

I dont thing the wire is as thin as 24, but it is under 18 from what I recall.
After reading this, I have to agree with Excaliber that this is not the proper place to continue this discussion, realizing the potential for a never ending debate with minimal benefit to the community. For the Good of the Order, and without acknowledging material concession, I withdraw the entirety of my questions and assertions in this regard. N_Jay, see you in another thread - take care and happy motoring.
 

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So...if I ran a jumper...

...from terminal 3 of the foglight (green/red wire) to a +12volt wire that is on with parking lights, I could operate the fog lights whenever the parking lights are on?

If I then turned the fog light switch ON...

Then when the parking lights were turned on, the fogs would come on...

...and the fogs would stay on when the high beams were turned on as well, right?

This being the case, what wire in the area would be hot when the parking lights are turned on? What's an easy one to tap into in the underdash area?


Would there be a need to cut the wire or install a diode at the red/green wire (terminal 3)? I don't see any need...but I am a hobbyist level electronics installer, not a pro...I don;t see any feedback problems, do you?

Thanks,
Steve
 

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Sorry, it won't . . .

SuperDuty Steve said:


...and the fogs would stay on when the high beams were turned on as well, right?

The MDX is a complex and moody animal.

The fogs are not directly ground to negative. The fog negative go through the combination light switch such that it cuts out whenever the highbeams are applied.

To bypass this feature, I jumped the fog negative to the harness negative at the combination switch harness connector. No splicing or dicing, just stripped 3/8" off the ends of a gauge-matched 2" wire, opened the connector pin retaining flap, and shoved the stripped ends into the cavities, and secured them place with mini-cable ties to the piggy-back original wires [see my pics in the "always on accessory socket" thread]. Now, the fogs stay on even when the high beams are on. I don't want to give color codes because I have an '01 and the '03 might have harness changes to accomodate the autoheadlights.

Mods to the foglight switch in itself will not alter the fog cutout feature during highbeaming.
 

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Just to add to the complexity

Even with no mod (OEM setup), I have noticed that the fog lights do not always go off when the high beams are turned on.

If you pull the turn signal/high beam stalk toward you as if you were flashing your high beams and hold it there, the high beams are on and the fogs stay on. When you let go, the high beams turn off.

If you pull the turn signal/high beam stalk further you will hear the click of a switch and the fogs turn off. When you let go of the stalk the high beams stay on, the fogs stay off.
 

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Re: Sorry, it won't . . .

TheyCallMeBruce said:


The MDX is a complex and moody animal.

The fogs are not directly ground to negative. The fog negative go through the combination light switch such that it cuts out whenever the highbeams are applied.

To bypass this feature, I jumped the fog negative to the harness negative at the combination switch harness connector. No splicing or dicing, just stripped 3/8" off the ends of a gauge-matched 2" wire, opened the connector pin retaining flap, and shoved the stripped ends into the cavities, and secured them place with mini-cable ties to the piggy-back original wires [see my pics in the "always on accessory socket" thread]. Now, the fogs stay on even when the high beams are on. I don't want to give color codes because I have an '01 and the '03 might have harness changes to accomodate the autoheadlights.

Mods to the foglight switch in itself will not alter the fog cutout feature during highbeaming.
Could you please tell me where to find the 'combination switch harness connector' that you referred to. A pic would be very helpful.

Thank You,
 

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Hey all,

Just did this mod and all went well. I did notice one piece of undesireable behavior and I wanted to bounce it off the board to see if this is expected. After completing the mod, the indicator light (green) on on the fog light switch does not work. Was this powered by the red/white (cut) wire? Or do I just have something wrong?

Not a huge deal, but annoying nonetheless.

Thanks,
Ken
 

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Just did this mod this weekend. The green indicator still works for me.
 

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Just rewired my fogs so they now operate with both low and high beams, as detailed by PsychoKnight, above. Simple fix, 30 minutes, great results! Here's the details for '03 & '04 X's:
I have an '04 X and used the service and electrical manual to sort this all out.
You have to get to the connector for the combination light switch. It is located beneath the upper steering wheel column cover trim piece. Getting that trim piece off is the trickiest part of the whole procedure. The service manual just says to remove it, but gives no clue on how to do it.
You remove it by separating it from the lower trim piece. First lower the steering wheel to its lowest position. Then squeeze the side of the lower trim IN, relative the upper trim piece, and it will separate. There are 3 molded clips on each side, and two across the front, behind the steering wheel. It takes a LOT of finesse. I tried several times, and almost gave up. If you pry them apart, you run the risk of damaging the molded clips on the lower trim piece. The upper trim piece lifts off. Leave the lower trim piece attached (by 3 screws).
The connector for the combination light switch is located to the extreme left of the steering column, attached to the back of the combination light switch. On the '04, the connector is colored a neutral color. On the '03, the connector is grey. Separate the connector from the combination light switch by squeezing the clip on the top part of the connector, and wiggle it free. The connector for the '04 & '03 does NOT open to expose the pins, as was the case with PsychoKnight's X. Instead, find the white/blue wire in the #2 top cavity (the #1 cavity is empty), and splice that to the black wire just below it. Any Radio Shack or auto parts store has wire slice connectors that splice two wires together. Just position the two wires in the connector, and squeeze with a pair of pliers to splice. No cutting of wires necessary.
Snap the top and bottom trim pieces together, readjust the steering wheel and the job is complete. If you are a bit shy slicing wires, etc., any radio install shop can do it very easily.
I don't have a scanner to show the connector in the service/electrical manuals. The relevant pages for this procedure are from the '03/'04 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual:
1. Page 110-13 (Wiring Diagram)
2. Page 201-6 / Photo 39 (Location Of Combination Light Switch Connector)
3. Page 202-55 / #285 (Combination Light Switch Connector Terminal View)

Enjoy
:26:
 

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Thanks highcountry!! :29:
 

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Gregc said:
I hate to bring this up, but this Mod could cause very serious problems. Connecting Red/Black wire to the Wht/Red wire connects 2 different circuits fused by 2 different sized fuses. The fuse for the Red/Black wire is 15a fuse 10 (this is the fuse for most running lights and the Multiplex control unit) on the passenger's side. The fuse for Wht/Red is a 20a fuse 43 (this is the fuse for the right side headlamps). Adding these 2 values together brings you up to 35amps. That means when the headlights are on you have 2 paths to get 12volt power at a total of 35 amps. This could be very dangerous if a component shorted out or drew too much current. The wires could overheat and start a fire, or you could damage the Multiplex Controller. This mod would be better if you cut the Wht/Red wire and used one of the Scotch-lock connectors to connect the switch end of the Wht/Red wire with the Red/Blk wire. That would acomplish what you want without cross wiring the circuits. You would need to insulate the cut end of the Wht/Red wire. Should work fine that way. For those that have cross wired the circuits, simply cut the Wht/Red wire past your connection and insulate both sides and you should be good! Never just tie 2 circuits together, you are inviting trouble.


Greg in Atlanta
You are very correct. This mod can have serious implications if something was to go wrong.

Don't know why anybody would want to do this anyway. they must live in very foggy country.
 

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G Colton, this procedure has ZERO "serious implications" because you are not connecting two separate circuits together. All this procedure does is supply an additional separate ground path for the fog lights relay. No added circuits, amps, volts, etc, etc. Electrical loads on the car's circuits are not effected.
Finally, you would understand the value of flooding the roadway with as much light as possible, if you shared some of these isolated mountain roads with all manner of wildlife as I do, daily. Because the MDX's fog lights throw a wide illuminated pathway of light, think of them not as 'Fog Lights', but as 'Flood Lights'.
 

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Ok guys, my 05 X has different color wires than the '03. I wanted to have the fogs come on with either the parking lights, or the low beams. Has anyone attempted this yet? If necessary I can list the wire colors, but was hoping someone has already sorted this project all out.
 

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05 Wiring

Is the 05 X wiring the same as the 04? I'm planning to do this mod and want to make sure before I start.

Thanks.
 

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Is the 05 X wiring the same as the 04? I'm planning to do this mod and want to make sure before I start.
DITTO....
 

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Hi all,

The first post in this thread was originally posted by me waaaaay back in 2001 on acura-tl.com (now part of the Acurazine.com conglomerate). There had been multiple requests for this mod (including myself), so after some studying of the diagrams in the FSM I came up with the mod. It was done dozens of times without incident, including my '02 TL-S (which I still have BTW). I just bought a brand new '05 MDX for the wife, and I will probably do this mod to this vehicle as well.

GregC's correction about the mod is spot on. Originally I just tied the two circuits together, so the fog relay would draw power when it got the 12V feed from the taillight circuit (taillights, dashlights, etc), as opposed to waiting for the 12V from the lowbeam circuit. The wiring can certainly handle the load since the relay still draws the high power from the original source side--the 12V feed from the taillight circuit is just an on/off switch that tells it when to work and when not to. The original mod was done with the intention of making it very "undoable" by just removing the jumper and being back to stock, in case you ever wanted to do that. However, as GregC pointed out, the proper way to finish this mod is to make the cut he suggested, thus killing the relay 12V feed from the lowbeam circuit side. Obviously, it will make the mod harder to "undo" since you would now have to splice in a bridge wire to rejoin what you snipped. It definitely makes the circuit safer on paper, but in reality it's probably a non-issue. I'll be doing this mod on the '05 MDX shortly and I'll let you know if I snip the original feed or not. :)
 

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I actually had a 2003 TL-S that I did this mod to. It was easy and very useful. I used the fogs as DRL's.

Keep me posted as you do this mod to your 05 X.

Thanks.
 

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Any photos ?

Sorry I am too stupid.

I couldn't find the phillip screw in my 05 X to release the underdash kick panel. anyone has photos ?

and im trying to open the steer wheel column upper cover. been trying many times. turn on signal, low, high beam, rain wiper and horn many times. everything moved but the cover just like a rock. ill keep trying.....
anyone has other trick? or photos. Is 05 same as 04?


:confused: :(
 
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