Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen,
I am going to replace the rear shocks pretty soon and I am thinking about replacing the rear spring coils at the same time. Is it easy to replace the spring coil? Any special tools required? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
no special tools, I recommend replacing the plastic ring the spring sits on and the rubber bump stops. My bumpstops disintegrated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
no special tools, I recommend replacing the plastic ring the spring sits on and the rubber bump stops. My bumpstops disintegrated!
I will take a look what you were talking about.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
csm

Are you referring to replace #7 & #8 in the diagram here?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
yep, 7 & 8. 7's orange bump stop was gone from disintegrating, the rear bottom holder (#8) was cracked on both sides.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,099 Posts
Can this be checked with wheels off? I thought my ride is a bit harsher than before.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
Can this be checked with wheels off? I thought my ride is a bit harsher than before.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Yes, look through the spring and you'll see the bump stop at the top; the lower mount won't be visible until the spring is off the car which isn't fun to do! The bump stops disintegrating caused lots of issues when fully loaded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,099 Posts
Is it dangerous to install the spring? Does it work like assemble the strut assembly? Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
Is it dangerous to install the spring? Does it work like assemble the strut assembly? Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
You can use a compressor tool to make it easier or use a pry bar and leverage to get them in and out. There needs to be about 2 inches of clearance made to get them out and in easily. Not as easy as on other SUV's but pretty straight-forward.
 
  • Like
Reactions: qqzj

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
If you know that your stabilizer links are not rusted and you’ve removed them yourself before then after that is easy. You will need another jack under for support and to put it back up. The gap to take it out isn’t that much so once there you have to rotate the spring for it to come out, follow steps like marking the top of the old spring, locating the notch where the spring seats, and make sure everything is clean before you do it cause any gunk in there will prevent it from rotating, put WD40 if you need to. I didn’t replace the rubber cause mine still good when I check but I replaced the plastic base cause you won’t see it if its good or bad. Order the bolts too in case they aren’t good anymore and they don’t cost that much. I have some pictures if you need them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,099 Posts
It's great if you can share the pictures!

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
If you know that your stabilizer links are not rusted and you’ve removed them yourself before then after that is easy. You will need another jack under for support and to put it back up. The gap to take it out isn’t that much so once there you have to rotate the spring for it to come out, follow steps like marking the top of the old spring, locating the notch where the spring seats, and make sure everything is clean before you do it cause any gunk in there will prevent it from rotating, put WD40 if you need to. I didn’t replace the rubber cause mine still good when I check but I replaced the plastic base cause you won’t see it if its good or bad. Order the bolts too in case they aren’t good anymore and they don’t cost that much. I have some pictures if you need them.
Thanks! I had installed a new stabilizer links a few months ago and they shouldn’t be hard to be removed again. How many miles when you replaced the coil springs? Looks like you only removed the stabilizer link from the stabilizer bar and leaving the other end still connected. That makes a lot easier!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Thanks! I had installed a new stabilizer links a few months ago and they shouldn’t be hard to be removed again. How many miles when you replaced the coil springs? Looks like you only removed the stabilizer link from the stabilizer bar and leaving the other end still connected. That makes a lot easier!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I replaced it summer 2019 at just around 215,000km or 133,000 miles. The springs still look good when I pulled them out, a bit of rust but I think they could still last another 12 years had I left them. The only reason I changed it is because my local shop at that time told me they cant do alignment cause the springs are sagging, which doesn’t make sense after I compared the old and new. Anyway, it’s done and it probably did help cause my alignment is still good after almost 2 years now unlike before where I need to do it every year. Btw, those new springs are OEM from my local Acura dealer, have read bad reviews about aftermarket ones so i bought original and Im planning to keep my mdx as long as possible anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I replaced it summer 2019 at just around 215,000km or 133,000 miles. The springs still look good when I pulled them out, a bit of rust but I think they could still last another 12 years had I left them. The only reason I changed it is because my local shop at that time told me they cant do alignment cause the springs are sagging, which doesn’t make sense after I compared the old and new. Anyway, it’s done and it probably did help cause my alignment is still good after almost 2 years now unlike before where I need to do it every year. Btw, those new springs are OEM from my local Acura dealer, have read bad reviews about aftermarket ones so i bought original and Im planning to keep my mdx as long as possible anyway.
Thank for the information. Same here they never able to get my rear wheels alignment. And they can’t adjust anymore to get in the green zone. Getting the he OEM springs as well.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,099 Posts
Thank for the information. Same here they never able to get my rear wheels alignment. And they can’t adjust anymore to get in the green zone. Getting the he OEM springs as well.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't think getting new springs will help you. Maybe I am wrong. But there are camber adjustment kits online specifically to adjust the rear camber of our cars. I guess they were invented for a reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,099 Posts
I don't know how you use your car. Most often, people get negative camber from carrying too much load in the trunk. The rear springs components may deteriorate to affect riding comfort, but they are less likely to change ride height and suspension geometry.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I don't know how you use your car. Most often, people get negative camber from carrying too much load in the trunk. The rear springs components may deteriorate to affect riding comfort, but they are less likely to change ride height and suspension geometry.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk
I used to load 6 or 7 people everyday doing Uber and it is probably that was the reason the springs are sagging a bit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,099 Posts
Let's know whether you can fix the camber after replacing the coil springs. Quite interesting.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
yeah, camber occurs from lowering and as well toe changes too when you lower the car via suspension change or sagging springs.

For sports cars and cars that have wear and tear, the way to get around the camber is to have the alignment adjusted to zero toe. This allows for good wear and good contact patch. BMW spec's -1.1 degrees camber on the rear on quite a few of their cars to have good traction and road feel. The key is zero toe.

Should fix the camber issues with new springs, new bushings in the arms as well if they are cracking
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top