You can easily pry it open with a flat screwdriver.. Consequently you can take the core to a recycling center for a few bucks.
If the transmission's coolant lines didn't corrode/break and intermix with the coolant, you can just replace the radiator and coolant. You'll easily know when you drain the radiator and see if it's pure coolant or any kind of pinkish shake like mix or color that comes out of the coolant.Hey Alpine003,
I'm currently having a slow coolant leak from the radiator and the dealer quote me over $900 for the parts and labor. Currently I'm just topping the coolant until i got some time to replace it. Do you think I can get away with just replacing the radiator and filling it back with coolant without having to deal with the transmission fluid?
Since you have replaced the radiator and flush the transmission fluid, I wondering how difficult was it?
If the transmission's coolant lines didn't corrode/break and intermix with the coolant, you can just replace the radiator and coolant. You'll easily know when you drain the radiator and see if it's pure coolant or any kind of pinkish shake like mix or color that comes out of the coolant.
Is the leak actually coming from the radiator? If so, you maybe ok. The tell tale signs of a intermix would be to check your coolant resorvoir tank and see if it has any pinkish color in there or the if levels of your resorvoir tank is unusually high and/or overflowing.
This is one of the more pain in the arse radiator replacements I've done. Don't let the spacious engine compartment fool you. I would set aside a whole weekend to do this to be on the safe side.Yeah the leak is from the radiator. I don't see any pinkish color, just green or whatever coolant color it is. Do you remember how long it took to do the remove and replace process for the radiator? Did you happen to have a repair manual or you just wing it and found how things are taken apart? I've been putting it off since I wasn't sure if there was anything "special" require to know before doing the R/R and online I wasn't able to find anything/anyone doing replacing one until your post. Thanks
How did you remove both fans? I managed to remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, two ATF hoses attached to the radiator, and what seems like hundreds of wire harnesses and mounting clips. I removed the brackets for both the radiator and condenser. I don’t have enough wiggle room to remove the fans on either side of the upper cross frame. Did you remove the brackets for the hard piped ATF line at the bottom of the radiator to remove the fans?This is one of the more pain in the arse radiator replacements I've done. Don't let the spacious engine compartment fool you. I would set aside a whole weekend to do this to be on the safe side.
I didn't look at any manual and just winged it.
Here are some quick notes on some parts of it(not entire instructions for removal):
- Remove upper shroud, grill, and lower bumper shroud. You'll need to remove several plastic push-pin rivets. For the bottom, you just need to remove the center piece only.
- Remove hood hinge lever
- There are electrical connectors on the sides of the radiators that must be disconnected and one sensor on the bottom of the radiator.
- The lower nut which holds the bracket that holds the ATF cooler can be reached from the lower opening of the front bumper(took me awhile to figure this out).
- It's a pain and may take you a few tries to remove and reinstall the lower radiator/atf hoses because the stupid cross beam is in the way.
Basically they really designed it badly from a r&r perspective. The radiator is wedged in between the upper cross frame and the body.
There should be 4 bolts you remove altogether at the bottom of the radiator. IIRC, two of them hold on the actual fans as they have brackets at the bottom of them. Did you do that already?How did you remove both fans? I managed to remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, two ATF hoses attached to the radiator, and what seems like hundreds of wire harnesses and mounting clips. I removed the brackets for both the radiator and condenser. I don’t have enough wiggle room to remove the fans on either side of the upper cross frame. Did you remove the brackets for the hard piped ATF line at the bottom of the radiator to remove the fans?
Yes. I was able to get everything loose from the foundation and the radiator but I can’t get the fans out. Not enough space to pull them from either side of the upper cross frame. Without the fan off, you can’t get the radiator off.There should be 4 bolts you remove altogether at the bottom of the radiator. IIRC, two of them hold on the actual fans as they have brackets at the bottom of them. Did you do that already?
knock on wood. :grin:Can we have a survey? Out of all the MDX sold from 2007-2013, how many actually had coolant and ATF mixed due to radiator failures? And where are the unfortunate owners located? It seems that this is more likely to happen in cold and rusty areas. But want to find some solid pattern here.
Yes I saved it. It shifts even better before but now I notice a very slight delay in "hooking" up when coasting slow and you press on the gas but it only does it here and there. I'm thinking some intermix could still be trapped in the Torque Converter, even though I flushed it with the engine running via the onboard atf pump.Did you save your transmission?
You are number 4 here. No. 1 Alpine003, No 2 & 3 AcuraAddicted (Funny he is still addicted to Acura after this.) TedMech (not sure about spelling). All in places using salt in the winter. Seems to become more frequently recently.My 2008 MDX had the intermix of ATF and radiator coolant. Started overheading in rush hour traffic and the hood overflowed with milk-shake foam. Total loss. I am in Calgary, Canada. The MDX had all maintenance minders done on time. This should have been a RECALL!