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Replace your Radiator as a Preventative Maintenance..

14459 Views 46 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Alpine003
Normally, I'm not the type that's too anal on PM unless it's something that can cause catostraphic damage or leave you stranded.

In this case, the radiator in the MDX should be a PM IMO as there are both transmission fluid and coolant running through the same unit. For warmer climate peeps, you can elect to go the external tranny cooler mod that has been outlined by Skirmich. For peeps living in snow states, it's gonna be a personal toss up on whether you want to maintain the factory setup. I'd rather not get into a debate about that in this thread though.

I would say if you're after the 8-9 yr period, you are pushing it depending on where you live.

If you wait til after the fact, you'll have to flush out both systems(tranny and coolant) which will cause you more headaches in labor and material costs down the line. You can do it as a PM which will set you back ~$300 for OEM Radiator or ~$160 for a Denso unit which also makes OEM radiators for various cars. I'm not sure about the other popular alternative which is Spectra as they seem to have a few different lines for the same car. I'd rather just stick to a Japanese OEM manufacturer personally.

It could cost you potentially more in towing fees if you get stranded from this or if you decide to keep driving it to the nearest shop, you're at their mercy. If you drive it home and it's far, you could be looking at a transmission repair or replacement cost.

So bottom line is if you're driving or don't notice the intermix and continue driving it, you could potentially damage your transmission.

I'd say this is a pretty good case to PM the radiator IMO.

In my case, I lucked out as it slowly started leaking(from passenger front corner) in my driveway. When I went to move it and let it run, the internal line must've ruptured and whole bunch of fluid spilled over out of the coolant reservoir tank.

It's pretty easy to diagnose this vs. say blown head gasket, cracked cylinder head by the color which should be strawberry milkshake like since tranny fluid is normally a reddish color.



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You can easily pry it open with a flat screwdriver.. Consequently you can take the core to a recycling center for a few bucks.
Hey Alpine003,

I'm currently having a slow coolant leak from the radiator and the dealer quote me over $900 for the parts and labor. Currently I'm just topping the coolant until i got some time to replace it. Do you think I can get away with just replacing the radiator and filling it back with coolant without having to deal with the transmission fluid?
Since you have replaced the radiator and flush the transmission fluid, I wondering how difficult was it?
If the transmission's coolant lines didn't corrode/break and intermix with the coolant, you can just replace the radiator and coolant. You'll easily know when you drain the radiator and see if it's pure coolant or any kind of pinkish shake like mix or color that comes out of the coolant.

Is the leak actually coming from the radiator? If so, you maybe ok. The tell tale signs of a intermix would be to check your coolant resorvoir tank and see if it has any pinkish color in there or the if levels of your resorvoir tank is unusually high and/or overflowing.
If the transmission's coolant lines didn't corrode/break and intermix with the coolant, you can just replace the radiator and coolant. You'll easily know when you drain the radiator and see if it's pure coolant or any kind of pinkish shake like mix or color that comes out of the coolant.

Is the leak actually coming from the radiator? If so, you maybe ok. The tell tale signs of a intermix would be to check your coolant resorvoir tank and see if it has any pinkish color in there or the if levels of your resorvoir tank is unusually high and/or overflowing.

Yeah the leak is from the radiator. I don't see any pinkish color, just green or whatever coolant color it is. Do you remember how long it took to do the remove and replace process for the radiator? Did you happen to have a repair manual or you just wing it and found how things are taken apart? I've been putting it off since I wasn't sure if there was anything "special" require to know before doing the R/R and online I wasn't able to find anything/anyone doing replacing one until your post. Thanks
Yeah the leak is from the radiator. I don't see any pinkish color, just green or whatever coolant color it is. Do you remember how long it took to do the remove and replace process for the radiator? Did you happen to have a repair manual or you just wing it and found how things are taken apart? I've been putting it off since I wasn't sure if there was anything "special" require to know before doing the R/R and online I wasn't able to find anything/anyone doing replacing one until your post. Thanks
This is one of the more pain in the arse radiator replacements I've done. Don't let the spacious engine compartment fool you. I would set aside a whole weekend to do this to be on the safe side.

I didn't look at any manual and just winged it.

Here are some quick notes on some parts of it(not entire instructions for removal):

- Remove upper shroud, grill, and lower bumper shroud. You'll need to remove several plastic push-pin rivets. For the bottom, you just need to remove the center piece only.

- Remove hood hinge lever

- There are electrical connectors on the sides of the radiators that must be disconnected and one sensor on the bottom of the radiator.

- The lower nut which holds the bracket that holds the ATF cooler can be reached from the lower opening of the front bumper(took me awhile to figure this out).

- It's a pain and may take you a few tries to remove and reinstall the lower radiator/atf hoses because the stupid cross beam is in the way.

Basically they really designed it badly from a r&r perspective. The radiator is wedged in between the upper cross frame and the body.
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This is one of the more pain in the arse radiator replacements I've done. Don't let the spacious engine compartment fool you. I would set aside a whole weekend to do this to be on the safe side.

I didn't look at any manual and just winged it.

Here are some quick notes on some parts of it(not entire instructions for removal):

- Remove upper shroud, grill, and lower bumper shroud. You'll need to remove several plastic push-pin rivets. For the bottom, you just need to remove the center piece only.

- Remove hood hinge lever

- There are electrical connectors on the sides of the radiators that must be disconnected and one sensor on the bottom of the radiator.

- The lower nut which holds the bracket that holds the ATF cooler can be reached from the lower opening of the front bumper(took me awhile to figure this out).

- It's a pain and may take you a few tries to remove and reinstall the lower radiator/atf hoses because the stupid cross beam is in the way.

Basically they really designed it badly from a r&r perspective. The radiator is wedged in between the upper cross frame and the body.
How did you remove both fans? I managed to remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, two ATF hoses attached to the radiator, and what seems like hundreds of wire harnesses and mounting clips. I removed the brackets for both the radiator and condenser. I don’t have enough wiggle room to remove the fans on either side of the upper cross frame. Did you remove the brackets for the hard piped ATF line at the bottom of the radiator to remove the fans?
You're Preventative maintenance is to bypass the radiator and add an external cooler. As seen in the link below. It is much easier and cheaper. I wouldnt bother the radiator unless it fails.

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-2g-...013-166/diy-install-atf-cooler-2g-mdx-946052/
How did you remove both fans? I managed to remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, two ATF hoses attached to the radiator, and what seems like hundreds of wire harnesses and mounting clips. I removed the brackets for both the radiator and condenser. I don’t have enough wiggle room to remove the fans on either side of the upper cross frame. Did you remove the brackets for the hard piped ATF line at the bottom of the radiator to remove the fans?
There should be 4 bolts you remove altogether at the bottom of the radiator. IIRC, two of them hold on the actual fans as they have brackets at the bottom of them. Did you do that already?
There should be 4 bolts you remove altogether at the bottom of the radiator. IIRC, two of them hold on the actual fans as they have brackets at the bottom of them. Did you do that already?
Yes. I was able to get everything loose from the foundation and the radiator but I can’t get the fans out. Not enough space to pull them from either side of the upper cross frame. Without the fan off, you can’t get the radiator off.
Just to bump this. If you do suffer intermix, plan on replacing both upper and lower radiator hoses and they will eventually collapse over time from the ATF fluid that softens the rubber on the hose.
Can we have a survey? Out of all the MDX sold from 2007-2013, how many actually had coolant and ATF mixed due to radiator failures? And where are the unfortunate owners located? It seems that this is more likely to happen in cold and rusty areas. But want to find some solid pattern here.
Well mine was originally from upper Michigan so I tend to agree that it would be more common in states that see's snow often.

The other factor would be how well it was maintained meaning scheduled coolant system flush and replacement. The PH imbalance over time and degradation of other additives/properties in the coolant could have an effect on the metal wear as well.
Did you save your transmission?
Can we have a survey? Out of all the MDX sold from 2007-2013, how many actually had coolant and ATF mixed due to radiator failures? And where are the unfortunate owners located? It seems that this is more likely to happen in cold and rusty areas. But want to find some solid pattern here.
knock on wood. :grin:
It's been over a year that the dealer told me I needed to replace the rad due to the fittings rusting out.

I keep my eye on them and so far no leaking of trans fluid.
I plan to replace the red in the spring, way too cold to be working in my driveway in this weather.

Just west of Toronto, Ontario.
Did you save your transmission?
Yes I saved it. It shifts even better before but now I notice a very slight delay in "hooking" up when coasting slow and you press on the gas but it only does it here and there. I'm thinking some intermix could still be trapped in the Torque Converter, even though I flushed it with the engine running via the onboard atf pump.

Northof49, just keep an eye on any leaks on the passenger front side and keep an eye on your coolant overflow tank for any intermix or higher than normal levels. These are one of the first visual indicators.
My 2008 MDX had the intermix of ATF and radiator coolant. Started overheading in rush hour traffic and the hood overflowed with milk-shake foam. Total loss. I am in Calgary, Canada. The MDX had all maintenance minders done on time. This should have been a RECALL!
My 2008 MDX had the intermix of ATF and radiator coolant. Started overheading in rush hour traffic and the hood overflowed with milk-shake foam. Total loss. I am in Calgary, Canada. The MDX had all maintenance minders done on time. This should have been a RECALL!
You are number 4 here. No. 1 Alpine003, No 2 & 3 AcuraAddicted (Funny he is still addicted to Acura after this.) TedMech (not sure about spelling). All in places using salt in the winter. Seems to become more frequently recently.
The first 3 yrs or so my car was in Georgia, and it is now in NE. Is the corrosion eating from the inside or the outside?
It is from the outside.. There is an amazing In-depth analysis fo the failure over at the Ridgeline Forums (We use the same ATF Warmer Design). Basically the ATF tubes leading into the ATF Warmer have a retaining system that does not depend on nut threads to get tight, Denso in all of its mighty glory decided to install a bevel spring which is basically a washer with an indentation that gets tighter with pressure so with a simple nut, The bevel spring pushes the atf tube against a rubber o-ring inside the radiator and this creates the necessary tension to keep the system air tight.

In freezing states where they leave salt on the road this bevel spring gets rusted and rusted so in time the rust is so invasive that the spring finally snaps or loses tension.. Obviously without this tension the atf tube is allowed to move inwards the radiator which creates a leak allowing ATF to mix with Coolant.. The new aftermarket Denso Radiator fixes this issue by using a single nut design (No more bevel spring to create tension) this design is much superior to OEM so.. IF you are replacing the radiator? Using the OEM Radiator is the worst thing you can do. Use Denso Aftermarket or Any other aftermarket option rather than OEM.
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There is something interesting on Amazon. If we search DENSO 2213237, the rad can be had for $134+tax, free shipping. What is interesting is that the professional install is only $129. In my case, it is provided by ZipIn Out Auto Services. It is not super close to me, across the bay. But it seems that they will show up in front my door to do the job.

https://www.yelp.com/biz/zipin-out-auto-service-newark

So for about $265, Jeff Bezos takes care it for us nice and easy. Is it a good idea? I am typically a DIYer, but it looks this one is not that easy. (It could be cheaper eslewhere.)

Also there is a 3-yr warranty on the parts for $26 sold by Warrantech. Not sure whether this is needed.
The DIY is pretty hard but not impossible.. But hey if you got the money? Go for it!
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