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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. My rear wiper fuse keeps on blowing and when it does, the rear wiper, non navi trip computer, and rear view mirror autodim stops working too.

The first time it happened was when the rear wiper wouldnt stop unless the engine is off, i tried putting on a new fuse but it just keep on blowing whener I turn on the engine

As of now I've disconnected the rear wiper motor and the fuse is working well,
I alreasy tried to connect a new wiper motor but the fuse blew again so I just disconnected it again.

Does anybody know anything about this?

Tomorrow i'll try to change the wiper stalk as it might be the problem due to the fact that the off position for the wiper doesnt work. Hopefully that will solve the problem.
 

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I recall some posts on this forum that it could be insulation on a wire (or wires) has become worn where the wiring harness goes from the body to the rear hatch and is shorting out.

Basically pull back the boot covering the wires (you might have a boot on the left and right and I don’t recall which sides goes to the rear wiper.) and check the insulation on the door side and body side. You might have to pull on the wires slightly to check where they enter the door or body. If you find a worn wire (and the wire itself looks OK) use electrical tape and re-wrap the wire. Reseat the boot(s).

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi yes you were right!

It is the wiring, ill try to save it with electrical tape first but if i fail, i have no choice but to change the whole wiring harness, is there any chance you know anyplace where I can buy that part?

113668
 

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Great job finding it. Here’s a link to the Acura parts site. There’s a diagram under electrical, wiring harness and you should be able to find the part number, then search online.


However, from your picture, that looks repairable with tape or slicing in new wires. You might show that picture to a guy/gal at your local hardware shop and ask for parts advice. Extra wire and connectors with crimps could do it. A crimp alone might do it but it could make that section bulky and stiff. Soldering s length of new wire and shrink tubing would be better but takes a little more skill and tools. (Not implying you’re unskilled or couldn’t learn). This video or one like it might help.


A wrecker or eBay might be the most economical but you’ll have to make sure the used harness is in good shape.

A car electrical ahop could fix it. I’d guess a repair at $150 if they repair, not replace it.

Good luck!
 

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That would be a 15 minute fix with a soldering gun and some heat shrink tubing. The best part is that it would be as good as new, and a LOT less hassle than swapping the entire harness out.
 
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