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Discussion Starter #1
I’m curious if this has been an ongoing issue for anyone else? 3 months ago I noticed metal on metal sound from my rear left. I didn’t hear the squealing to give me a heads up to change pads and seemed to happen suddenly. Had pads and rotors replaced hey mentioned the calipers may and the mechanic said the caliper may have been getting “stuck” but shouldn’t be an issue now and he did not change it. 3 months later, I’m in the same situation! I’ve seen threads about asking sure a piston is not stuck and checking for over greasing. Any additional thoughts for permanent fix? I know have access at home to lift the car and work on it myself.
 

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Check caliper and brake hose

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1. Do a full brake fluid change/flush at all 4 wheels.

2. With the bleeder screw open on the caliper, retract the piston to push out any remaining debris. Close the bleeder, pump the pedal enough to get the piston back out to the position where it clamps the old pads against the rotor. Repeat a few times. You should be able to feel less resistance retracting the piston as it clears out debris.
 

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What happens is the brake caliper as mentioned can get stuck as road grime and rust build up that prevents the caliper to slide in and out of it's housing. As your repair man said it should be fine now as he most likely cleaned it up for you and saved the seal from getting destroyed which would require a new caliper!
 

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Your caliper is sticking and you are essentially applying some slight braking force all the time.

Your rubber brake hoses (there are 2 for the driver's rear and 2 more on the other side) may have deteriorated or internally collapsed. If they deteriorated there is now rubber residue gumming up the inside of your caliper. If they collapsed the brake fluid is not making it back towards the brake reservoir, when you take your foot off of the brake pedal.

Either way, I believe that your hoses need replaced and the caliper flushed, as Bluepill mentions above.

On my 2007, last Summer I installed Stop Tech stainless steel braided brakes hoses on all 4 corners. The 2 fronts were $61 (set) and the 4 on the rear were $75 (set). The hardest part was getting the "u" shaped retaining clips out and back in to their slots.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I really appreciate the responses, everyone. Thinking I’ll replace all four hoses and flush the brake fluid throughout.
 

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I have been here before with my 2009 MDX.

Glad to hear you have your own 'repair man' and/or perhaps you're skilled enough to work on cars yourself?- however if you're like me (clueless with car repair/mechanics etc.) then be very wary in having an Acura dealership service dept. fix your MDX's brake related issue...

Never EVER trust the Acura STEALERSHIP- they're only good on you (and your wallet) in very limited circumstances (examples provided below):

A.) getting a FREE loaner car to buy you more time for the following:
- Search this forum (this is a great forum we have here @www.mdxers.org- much better help available than I'm able to find for either my Mercdes SUV or Audi sedan on similar forums!)
- IDENTIFY and price out the parts needed- online
- Search YELP/Google for a good independent mechanic (I found a guy who used to be master mechanic for Acura, then opened up his own shop- very reliable for the past 10 years!)

Oh, and if you need to buy more time with loaner, just do what the STEALERSHIP does to us/most of its customers- give them the same Yo-Yo treatment they're prone to delivering their customers (i.e. racking up diagnostic fee's without ever actually/thoroughly addressing the problem at hand and then occasionally recommending unnecessary/high priced service items to meet their repair/sales quota's to bring in more revenue), and let them dangle on your very own yo-yo string...I once took my Acura stealership provisioned 2012 (new at the time) ZDX loaner, on an unsanctioned cross country journey to Florida (+1300 mile trip!) for 3 days beyond the time my '09 MDX was ready to be picked up POST diagnostic fee's for the horrendous battery drain incident (which the Acura Stealership 'mechanic' at the time claimed that they just could not figure out the cause of problem, but instead the SALES INCENTIVE driven Acura Service Advisor conveniently left me a boneheaded voicemail- recommending replacing my battery, alternator, and positive battery cable to resolve mysterious battery drain- ALL for the discounted stealership fee of $1400 out the door....LOL~ year right...sucka's!) instead of entertaining this fool's crazy suggestions, I left him a return voicemail or two letting him know that I was out of town (just neglected to mention that I was out of town with his ZDX loaner....bwahahahahahah!!!)

Several days later, I simply returned my well traveled ZDX loaner, declined the ABSURD, ASININE service suggestions (actually told the fool- 'hmmm let me think about tonight and then call you back...LOL....sucka!!!!) and then followed the tips from this forum (although six years has already passed, i still vividly recall actually finding the HFL removal suggestion here on this forum via my iPhone 5- all while at a bar in Ybor City, FL sipping on a Midori Sour!!!) and yanked my HLF module out after returning from FL- PROBLEM SOLVED (and $1400 saved + free miles from ZDX loaner for weekend MIAMI getaway with my girlfriends- DISCLAIMER I would not recommend doing this by the way- I was just really pissed with accumulated anger built up from having been VIOLATED/SUCKERED by Acura Stealership Service departments at the time...)...this particular dealership was so poorly managed, they never, EVER once said a SINGLE word to me (even upon more return visits to get more LOANER car usage throughout several years afterwards!!!) upon return of loaner in as to why their relatively new (at the time) ZDX loaner had an additional, unaccounted for 1,300 miles on the odometer upon return!!!! idiots!)....i do think these morons eventually caught on as the last time I was there they now have a mileage quota/limit on the Loaner Vehicle Agreement that has to be signed by the customer which I had never seen before....LOL!

B.) Identifying potential SPECIFIC parts and/or fixes to resolve your MDX's problem (make sure to call Parts dept. to get the part #'s so that you can price them online- never EVER buy parts directly from the Acura stealership. unless your filthy rich.

C.) Free coffee/car wash

Oh and here's a link below- detailing my journey with a frozen caliper this past summer- turned out to be a faulty brake line...(stealership did stick it to my wallet me on all four's on this one though....perhaps they were extracting revenge for my ZDX loaner Miami excursion, or maybe, and more likely they were just being a STEALERSHIP!)

Smoke coming out from ONE of my '09 MDX wheels! (stuck caliper?)
https://www.mdxers.org/forums/74-second-generation-mdx-2007-2013/165625-smoke-coming-out-one-my-09-mdx-wheels-stuck-caliper.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry to see that you had the same issue! Very helpful reading your own thread. I will update as soon as we service this upcoming week. By the sounds of things I’m hoping to flush or replace tubes and likely caliper. At least worth a try.
 

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good luck :29: what really IRKS me about my experience this past summer is the fact that I allowed the imbecile stealership service advisor to bend me over on all 4's (figuratively speaking)....

after due diligence/research, I clearly recall the very first thing that I had suggested to him as likely necessitating replacement was the brake lines/hose- but NO this moron was quick in immediately refuting my suggestion/request and ended up getting me to replace (and PAY about $930!!!!!) a caliper, turn the rotor, and get new front brakes- which in the end, DID not resolve the problem (issue was only resolved after MDX had been brought back to stealership with caliper still occasionally seizing up, and these Acura BONEHEAD mechanics finally replaced the brake line/hose)...in retrospect, I blame myself 100% for facilitating the bamboozling of my wallet/money by these diagnostic fee loving idiots!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Calipers and slide pins looked good and moved freely. Brake fluid was about due so flushed the system and there was some crud in the line. Hoping this is all there is going on thanks again everyone for the advice.
 
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