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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I finally decided to do my very first preventive maintenance item on my 2007 MDX and you guessed it right, it is the radiator. Will buy the rad from RockAuto. But what else to replace?

My car is made in Oct or Nov of 2006. So it is 12-1/2 years now. Do upper and lower hoses go bad on Honda vehicles often around this many years? Another item I can think of is the thermostat. It is quite expensive for what it is and compared to aftermarket options. So I am wondering whether I need to replace it now. If not, I shall touch the same place in 4 years when I do my 2nd timing belt job. So it is not like that I will delay it to infinity.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.
 

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Connecting hoses and various clips.

If this helps, here's the list of items Acura replaced for my 2008 MDX when they replaced the radiator:

19010-RYE-A52 (Radiator itself)
25210-RYE-000 (Pipe comp C ATF)
25211-RYE-016 (Hose 170mm ATF)
25212-RYE-006 (Hose 235mm ATF)
25215-RAA-006 (Hose 155mm AFT)
90635-RV0-003 ( 8 Clips Comp Oil Pip)
90511-PH7-003 (2 Clips water hose)
91501-S04-003 (5 inner fender clips)
 

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If you are going to the trouble to replace the radiator, hoses, and thermostat - do yourself a favor and use only Genuine Acura parts. The vast majority of aftermarket parts range from sub-standard to pure junk.

I am saying this as a guy who was an Acura/Honda/Toyota mechanic for 45 years.
 

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Definitely all of the hose clamps. My rad was replaced just before I bought it and the hoses are fine at 160K, but I have had several of the constant tension or spring clamps fail with the worst issue being the top radiator hose popping off while I was driving 75 mph on the highway and naturally pumping all of the brand new coolant out. I reconnected the hose and properly seated the clamp thinking the tech just didn't get it seated right on the rad job only to have it pop off a second time. That's when I realized the original clamp was weak. About the same time the clamp at the thermostat housing started leaking too.
 

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The upper 7/8's of the radiator holds engine coolant and the bottom 1/8 holds automatic transmission fluid.

There is a seal that separates the two compartments and you never know when it will fail.

Buy an external ATF cooler, put it in series with the MDX OEM ATF cooler, let the ATF drain out if the lower 1/8 radiator compartment, then plug off the two hoses to that lower compartment.

Now, when the seal fails, only a small amount of ATF residue will mix with your coolant. Just top off the coolant reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks like the dealer replaced a bunch of smaller hoses and clips to connect ATF to radiator. The two big hoses, thermostat and radiator cap are not changed. If so, maybe I can keep using them for a few more years. Thanks.

Connecting hoses and various clips.

If this helps, here's the list of items Acura replaced for my 2008 MDX when they replaced the radiator:

19010-RYE-A52 (Radiator itself)
25210-RYE-000 (Pipe comp C ATF)
25211-RYE-016 (Hose 170mm ATF)
25212-RYE-006 (Hose 235mm ATF)
25215-RAA-006 (Hose 155mm AFT)
90635-RV0-003 ( 8 Clips Comp Oil Pip)
90511-PH7-003 (2 Clips water hose)
91501-S04-003 (5 inner fender clips)
 

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I did replace only the radiator and just that...
The hoses looked very pliable and I had no issues with the constant pressure hose clamps…
So.. Yeah not what I would recommend but I had no issues ever since and its been a year now.

What I will say is that if you are touching the T-STAT only use HONDA OEM 2 Stage T-Stat, DO NOT MESS UP by going aftermarket, I have seen literally dozens of hondas on the shop having issues with aftermarket T-Stats.

Also add the radiator rubber feet to your list, By some reason mine were pretty deformed and I had no luck trying to shape them back together.




-If you are really planning in doing what is to me the most painful, boring and time consuming DIY ever in the MDX?
https://www.mdxers.org/forums/74-second-generation-mdx-2007-2013/157897-diy-replace-radiator-flush-f-2g-mdx.html
I say good luck my friend…

-If you are smart you will pay any kind of money to have this done by someone else.
 
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I did replace only the radiator and just that...
The hoses looked very pliable and I had no issues with the constant pressure hose clamps…
So.. Yeah not what I would recommend but I had no issues ever since and its been a year now.

What I will say is that if you are touching the T-STAT only use HONDA OEM 2 Stage T-Stat, DO NOT MESS UP by going aftermarket, I have seen literally dozens of hondas on the shop having issues with aftermarket T-Stats.

Also add the radiator rubber feet to your list, By some reason mine were pretty deformed and I had no luck trying to shape them back together.




-If you are really planning in doing what is to me the most painful, boring and time consuming DIY ever in the MDX?
https://www.mdxers.org/forums/74-second-generation-mdx-2007-2013/157897-diy-replace-radiator-flush-f-2g-mdx.html
I say good luck my friend…

-If you are smart you will pay any kind of money to have this done by someone else.
Yes a real PIA. (If you have a 5" pair of needle nosed pliers, to get the lower radiator hose clamp off & on.)
While your bumper cover is off, you could buy a $55 head light polishing kit and maybe replace your D2s bulbs (OSRAM or Morimoto).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am not sure about my IQ, never tested. But I am sure I am broke. So have to do this myself. Also it is hard to find someone I can trust. So I won't be sure about the quality of the job anyways.

But I shall follow your DIY guide carefully. I have a whopping luxury of three days to get this done. Let's see how it goes. BTW, I also have a set of fancy clamp pliers, the type that has a long cable. Maybe that will help a bit. Will see.

I did replace only the radiator and just that...
The hoses looked very pliable and I had no issues with the constant pressure hose clamps…
So.. Yeah not what I would recommend but I had no issues ever since and its been a year now.

What I will say is that if you are touching the T-STAT only use HONDA OEM 2 Stage T-Stat, DO NOT MESS UP by going aftermarket, I have seen literally dozens of hondas on the shop having issues with aftermarket T-Stats.

Also add the radiator rubber feet to your list, By some reason mine were pretty deformed and I had no luck trying to shape them back together.




-If you are really planning in doing what is to me the most painful, boring and time consuming DIY ever in the MDX?
https://www.mdxers.org/forums/74-second-generation-mdx-2007-2013/157897-diy-replace-radiator-flush-f-2g-mdx.html
I say good luck my friend…

-If you are smart you will pay any kind of money to have this done by someone else.
 

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Had mine done at my local Indi a month or so ago. After Acura telling me it needed to be done a few times over the past two plus years. :D

Rad
thermostat
upper, lower hoses
both trans hoses
A/C Condenser that had to moved to get the rad out, crumbled apart because of rust

There were a couple of other small items that needed to be replaced because the rust was soo bad.

In the end, I had to take it back three days later for a trans fluid leak.
one of the trans fittings was bad and the shop had to replace the rad with another.

The mechanic was pissed, saying he hates doing the same job twice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes a real PIA. (If you have a 5" pair of needle nosed pliers, to get the lower radiator hose clamp off & on.)
While your bumper cover is off, you could buy a $55 head light polishing kit and maybe replace your D2s bulbs (OSRAM or Morimoto).
Why do you have to take the bumper off? I thought the limiting factor is the condenser cannot be moved further enough to give space for the removal of fan and radiator. If removing the bumper can yield more space for the condenser, maybe I will do that too.

So I read schirmich's DIY and the key step seems to be that pull the condenser forward first, then pull the rad up a bit so that the fan can come out. Correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Had mine done at my local Indi a month or so ago. After Acura telling me it needed to be done a few times over the past two plus years. :D

Rad
thermostat
upper, lower hoses
both trans hoses
A/C Condenser that had to moved to get the rad out, crumbled apart because of rust

There were a couple of other small items that needed to be replaced because the rust was soo bad.

In the end, I had to take it back three days later for a trans fluid leak.
one of the trans fittings was bad and the shop had to replace the rad with another.

The mechanic was pissed, saying he hates doing the same job twice.
While mechanic was pissed, I would be scared in your situation. I guess the leak is from the ATF hose to rad, so why did he need to do it again. Just remove the lower shield.
 

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Yes a real PIA. (If you have a 5" pair of needle nosed pliers, to get the lower radiator hose clamp off & on.)
While your bumper cover is off, you could buy a $55 head light polishing kit and maybe replace your D2s bulbs (OSRAM or Morimoto).

I didn´t remove the bumper to replace my rad, Why you did this? AFAIK it gives no tactical advantage at all.
 

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While mechanic was pissed, I would be scared in your situation. I guess the leak is from the ATF hose to rad, so why did he need to do it again. Just remove the lower shield.
One of the ATF fittings on the rad was defective and would not seal. Had nothing to do with the hose or clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One of the ATF fittings on the rad was defective and would not seal. Had nothing to do with the hose or clamp.
Did the shop provide the rad? The shop did it free of charge the second time?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Did the shop provide the rad? The shop did it free of charge the second time?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Yes the shop provided the rad and the second time round was free. just an inconvenience with no vehicle for a day. Good thing the shop is just a 10 minute walk from work.
 

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Hi guys, I finally decided to do my very first preventive maintenance item on my 2007 MDX and you guessed it right, it is the radiator. Will buy the rad from RockAuto. But what else to replace?

My car is made in Oct or Nov of 2006. So it is 12-1/2 years now. Do upper and lower hoses go bad on Honda vehicles often around this many years? Another item I can think of is the thermostat. It is quite expensive for what it is and compared to aftermarket options. So I am wondering whether I need to replace it now. If not, I shall touch the same place in 4 years when I do my 2nd timing belt job. So it is not like that I will delay it to infinity.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.
Don't know if you've already addressed the Gorilla in the room also known as the REAR MAIN SEAL replacement?! Or perhaps, you're milelage is still low enough to warrant putting this off until later?

Rear main seal
https://www.mdxers.org/forums/74-second-generation-mdx-2007-2013/168858-rear-main-seal.html

Rear Main Seal failure at 190K, 2007 MDX
https://www.mdxers.org/forums/74-second-generation-mdx-2007-2013/157785-rear-main-seal-failure-190k-2007-mdx.html

Also, can't determine if this job would actually qualify as preventive maintenance, but for a repair item that the Acura Stealerships will certainly try to stick it to you for no less than $2500 US dollars (labor only, + about $17 for the actual part) its one that I'd imagine my aging 2009 Acura MDX (103K miles) may have to eventually need within the next 5 years or more???:surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My impression is that for cars that have run properly for 100k miles, just replacing engine oil more frequently with high quality high mileage fully synthetic engine oil will alleviate this problem a lot. The high mileage stuff can revitalize the seals. Also replace the ATF more frequently helps. (In my other cars, I also use high mileage fully synthetic ATF. But I dare not for MDX.) If anything goes wrong, a lot of people had success using some snake oil to solve the problem, like AT205. Scotty Kilmer said this many many times. So I am actually not that worried.

My next preventive job is to clean throttle plate, egr passage and adjust valve clearance. I shall do them after 2-3 years.
 

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I highly recommend the VALVE ADJUSTMENT on your 2nd gen. MDX!!! I recall having immediately noticed increased RPM and better fuel economy after the valve adjustment I had done on my 2009 MDX (by independent Acura mechanic who charged about 1/4 the Acura stealership asking price of about $1100!) this past Fall :29:!
 

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Don't know if you've already addressed the Gorilla in the room also known as the REAR MAIN SEAL replacement?! Or perhaps, you're milelage is still low enough to warrant putting this off until later?

Rear main seal
https://www.mdxers.org/forums/74-second-generation-mdx-2007-2013/168858-rear-main-seal.html

Rear Main Seal failure at 190K, 2007 MDX
https://www.mdxers.org/forums/74-second-generation-mdx-2007-2013/157785-rear-main-seal-failure-190k-2007-mdx.html

Also, can't determine if this job would actually qualify as preventive maintenance, but for a repair item that the Acura Stealerships will certainly try to stick it to you for no less than $2500 US dollars (labor only, + about $17 for the actual part) its one that I'd imagine my aging 2009 Acura MDX (103K miles) may have to eventually need within the next 5 years or more???:surprise:


RMS is not a preventive maintenance item, Under normal circumstances this could outlast the vehicle with proper maintenance (Oil changes).
My TL-S has been using its OG RMS for the past 220K miles, Knock on wood.
 
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