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Discussion Starter #1
For those who have done replacing the rear shock for 2007-2013, is there anything special about the upper bolt? Is there a nut hidden behind it or is the bolt screwed directly into the body frame? What is the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? Thanks.
 

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Nothing special. I think it bolts into the frame. My issue was the lower bolt that had rusted to the sleeve. That was a pain to remove. Good luck!
 

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For those who have done replacing the rear shock for 2007-2013, is there anything special about the upper bolt? Is there a nut hidden behind it or is the bolt screwed directly into the body frame? What is the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? Thanks.
The key is WD40!!. When I did mines I strayed all the bolts that I was removing and let it sit for about an hr. All bolts/nuts came out with no issues. 2 bolts on lower control arm, 1 nut for sway bar link and one bolt on top.
 

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Liquid Wrench will help even more. Put it on the offending bolt and hit it few times with a hammer then wait and re-apply. Nothing can resist the LQ.
 

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Nothing special. I think it bolts into the frame. My issue was the lower bolt that had rusted to the sleeve. That was a pain to remove. Good luck!
This was my issue as well. This is what I expect to see typically on a Honda Civic rear lower control arms but wasn't expecting it on the MDX. It still puzzles me why they don't just use a dab of anti-seize during the assembly process on this part. All Honda's and Acura's with rear lower control arms seems to suffer from this issue.
 

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This was my issue as well. This is what I expect to see typically on a Honda Civic rear lower control arms but wasn't expecting it on the MDX. It still puzzles me why they don't just use a dab of anti-seize during the assembly process on this part. All Honda's and Acura's with rear lower control arms seems to suffer from this issue.
Locking compound is used to keep bolts from loosening and especially if they are not very long.

If the bolts are long enough then anti seize and the tension on the bolt will keep bolt from self loosening and will much better than locking compound. If the bolt is short then it is more likely to loosen with thread locking compound.

This may not make sense to some viewing post but there is no reason to bore most on the theory, testing and experience....

If there is little concern for damage during removal then heat will readily help on most bolts/nuts with rust or locking compound.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I noticed Acura doesn't have the nut for the lower bolt available for purchase. Is there a hidden part number?
 

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I don't think there is a nut. It is integrated into the knuckle, control arm, etc.
 

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I don't think there is a nut. It is integrated into the knuckle, control arm, etc.
I believe this is correct IIRC with the MDX, the nut often comes off as it's normally spot welded to the control arm and the reason why some think this is a separate part. This has happened to me before on other models.

In terms of backing out, I've never had any issues after applying anti-seize to the dozen or so Honda/Acura's I've worked on. Obviously due to liability reasons, the factory would never do that.
 

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Glad I saw this topic since I'm considering replacing mine.

Question: How do you know you need to replace them? Was the rear end bouncing or making noise to indicate the shock was bad?

Also, what replacement brand is best?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, mine is leaking fluid all over. The fluid looks fresh too; hardly any dirt on it. However, its still damping the rough road well. The rear damper doesn't exhibit any noise over bump, or bounce. I have no option because I am replacing it with the ADS shock.
 

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Well, mine is leaking fluid all over. The fluid looks fresh too; hardly any dirt on it. However, its still damping the rough road well. The rear damper doesn't exhibit any noise over bump, or bounce. I have no option because I am replacing it with the ADS shock.

Ok, fluid leaks...got it. I have a 07 Base...assuming it's the same as yours, do you have an item # for the ADS shocks? Mine isn't too bad, just starting to ride kinda like a boat. With a 180k on the clock it can't hurt to replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They don't always leak fluid. My front damper exhibited clunky noise over bump or pothole when it gone bad. ADS is only available for Sports model [2007-09], Advance model [2010-13].

For '07 base model part number is 52610-STX-A04 ($92.59)
 

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Ok I see. "ADS" is the auto dampening systems for those mentioned models. I read on another thread about folks losing the ADS for standard shocks and struts due to cost. Hopefully replacing all four will restore a smoother ride on the X.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you do it yourself, for about $700, you get all four regular corners replaced. Maybe next 3-4 months I'll replace the last rear ADS. Then I would have four corner new ADS. I hope they give me another 60K miles of service. Otherwise, I will go for the ADS-to-Regular.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just replaced the left rear shock and stabilizer link and bushing. It wasn't too bad. I was having a little difficulty aligning the lower bolt when I reinstalled the new shock. It took awhile to figure it out. I torqued the upper and lower bolt to 58 lb-fts. Does this sound right?

As I removed the right rear tire to install the stabilizer link and bushing, low and behold, the shock on that side is also leaking. Holy mother of God, all four dampers failed within 65-68K miles. Just unbelievable!
 
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