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Thanks for the great tips! I wish I had them available when I started this job.

good luck
 

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I really appreciate the good advice I have found here.

Lowering the back of the subframe was the ticket. I put a jack under the removeable crossmember and backed out the bolts 1" as you suggested.

Getting those fittings loose from the ps rack was one of the most difficult crappiest jobs I can think of. I had crows feet and plenty of extensions. It was still baby steps until they each came out. Just as much trouble trying to get them in. There is just no room! Maybe my arms are a bit shorter than some?

Dropping the back of the subframe let me pull out both hoses from the passenger wheel well. I kept them connected together with the middle bracket up which lives up over the driveshaft. This way I could be more certain of getting the spaghetti back in the way Mr. Honda intended.

It was successful. I recommend buying all new hoses and clips - this is not a job a guy wants to repeat!

Thanks a Million habbyguy!
 

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An important note.. if you drop the back of your sub-frame, be certain to unplug the power steering pressure switch. There does not seem to be enough wire slack to accomodate the drop.
 

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Just finished this job over the weekend. Total PITA that took 6hrs over 2 days.

Dropping the subframe 3/4" was the easiest part of the job (air impact). It's everything else that was a beast.

Some tips:

1. Order OEM parts (fitting sizes are the same).
2. Order new clamps, return line, LP fitting, and 10mm bolts for clamps.
3. Crowfoot flare 19 & 17 a must, wobble extensions, kroil penetrating oil, and 10mm long ratcheting wrench.

I snapped the rusty bolt on the RH lower clamp, so I had to remove the rack clamp and extract the broken bolt.
 
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