Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
There are two screws underneath the light covers. Then it just pulls down (with some force).



But why would you want to power it from the overhead light console? It would be better to run a dedicated power wire that only operates when the key or accessories are on. Otherwise it will drain your battery.

Others have installed them before. Just search the forum for “dash cam”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Previously had a ford and it shutdowns all consumers including overhead light console after 30 minutes of idle and that worked just fine for me. And it is actually the nearest place to get the power.
Though it would be nearly similar to MDX, which has more features. Will try to experiment with overhead light, do you think it will work all night if I forget to switch it off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
I just had a BlackVue 900 dual channel installed in my MDX last week. It’ll run off the battery until it gets to a certain voltage and than shut off. I usually get about 4 hours of parking mode this way.

We ran the wires between the liner and windshield down the driver pillar to the fuse box and tied into a constant and accessory there. Was pretty quick and easy. Took about an hour to install front and rear along with running wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Mine has a park mode as well. But it senses motion and/or jarring and then automatically records for 10 seconds and shuts off again. The internal battery to the camera can do this without being on a power source.

An hour to install everything is quite quick! Especially when it involves dropping the headliner to run a wire to the back. I did that on mine too but I took much longer than an hour for sure. If it’s just a front facing camera, then an hour is good if you’ve done it before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
We ran the wires between the liner and windshield down the driver pillar to the fuse box and tied into a constant and accessory there. Was pretty quick and easy. Took about an hour to install front and rear along with running wire.
What routing did you use for the rear camera? i.e. headliner/top or under the lower door trim and carpet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
What routing did you use for the rear camera? i.e. headliner/top or under the lower door trim and carpet?


Routed the cable along the driver side along the top in the door jam. The rubber sealer just pulls down and gives you easy access to the headliner. Then for the hatch just followed the factory wiring into the bundle. Can’t see the cables at all. Only place you can see any cables is along side the factory camera on the windshield since I mounted it below that.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Only word of caution with that is to be sure you are not in the way of the side curtain airbags. They deploy down the side windows of the vehicle and you don’t want a wire running across their path that could alter their trajectory in any way.

I actually dropped down the headliner enough to run my wires behind the curtain (as in further away from edge toward the inside of the vehicle) so that it would not be in the way. This required removing the B-pillar trim as well, which has a grommet you have to replace once you remove it. It’s designed to work in conjunction with the side curtain air bags and must always be replaced with new when you remove it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
We just removed the T at the top of the pillar between the front seat and the back and continued running it across the top of the rear door. I don't remember seeing anything in this area related to the air bag though, but maybe I wasn't looking close enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
I assure you, they are there. Lol

It runs up the A-Pillar all the way back to the C-Pillar.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,107 Posts
A consideration - instead of mounting a dual cam unit and having to run the cable from the back to the front, just order 2 single cam units and mount them independently where the rear cam would only need to tap into power. Dash cams aren't terribly expensive depending on which ones one buys. I have two Viofo units and the functionality on them is fine.

I have a dual cam unit but the rear cam is still sitting in the box but this is for a convertible that has no rear window since I keep the top down for the majority of the year.

For the MDX I have just a single cam in front but might think about doing another for the rear. I kludged the front in a way where it's not mounted to the windshield and is portable. It sits on the dash in a cradle I made for it and is just powered with the included wire that hangs down from the dash a very short distance and plugs into the accessory outlet. There's no need to mess with trying to tap into some wiring in the mirror area. It's actually not really in the way hence why it's still like this after some years.

The vast majority of the time there's not much to see on a dashcam. They're there for the exceptions of when something unusual happens either on an impact or a capture but since they hold hours of video before wrapping it's not imperative to really hit the capture button immediately which is why I think an independent rear would work if one wants to avoid running a wire to the front. An alternative would be a wireless one at the rear but I haven't checked those out.

I don't know why a dash cam function wouldn't just be built in to a vehicle like the MDX. It wouldn't be very expensive if designed-in and could possibly be dual purposed with the already existing front camera that's use for the safety features and even if they charged an extra $50-100 for it on top of the proverbial $50K many are paying for the vehicle I doubt many would call that a deal breaker and would very much view it as a positive. They might even save money via insurance if any companies give a break for this as they should. Some other vehicles have such a thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I actually dropped down the headliner enough to run my wires behind the curtain (as in further away from edge toward the inside of the vehicle) so that it would not be in the way. This required removing the B-pillar trim as well, which has a grommet you have to replace once you remove it. It’s designed to work in conjunction with the side curtain air bags and must always be replaced with new when you remove it.
How is the headliner attached along the sides. I've heard of magnets or something near the rear of the sunroof. I'm always cautious to mess around with it for fear of messing something up.

For the grommet, is it one of those single-use fasteners that you have to hit with a mallet or fist to release (and destroy)? I can't see any fasteners on the B-pillar trim of my 17.


Here's a video from a 2015 that looks applicable:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
There were no magnets that I saw. The headliner isn’t really attached anywhere, rather it’s held into place by all the parts that are attached to the vehicle.

I didn’t actually “remove” the whole headliner, that’s a bit misleading. But I did remove the overhead console, the sun visor (which by the way is not obvious), the hand holds above drivers and rear drivers door, rubber door gaskets, as well as the A-pillar and B-pillar trim. Yes, the B-pillar grommet is removed by hitting the right spot and destroying it. Had to dig around on the Honda Tech site to figure that one out. I also removed the rear light over the 3rd row (which also an ANC microphone) and the trim peice along the top rear of the headliner. With all that removed I could pull the headliner down far enough to run the wire for the rear camera and zip tied it to existing wiring in the headliner. I didn’t want to remove the C-pillar trim since it also has one of those grommets you destroy to remove. With the headliner down that far, you can clearly see the side curtain SRS system to avoid it. (Note: very good idea to have the battery disconnected for this)

I also ran additional wires at the same time to the rear and to the roof. Took advantage of it all at one time.

https://www.mdxers.org/forums/94-third-generation-mdx-2014-present/169544-aux-led-driving-lights-light-bars.html#/topics/169544

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
There are two screws underneath the light covers. Then it just pulls down (with some force).



But why would you want to power it from the overhead light console? It would be better to run a dedicated power wire that only operates when the key or accessories are on. Otherwise it will drain your battery.

Others have installed them before. Just search the forum for “dash cam”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What is the sequence to remove it?
I do not see any screws or clips under the eyeglass case.
113274

Those are just solid plastic, nothing to open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Just a word of caution, you will need an in-line 12V/5V transformer if you are connecting your camera to a 12V source.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Just a word of caution, you will need an in-line 12V/5V transformer if you are connecting your camera to a 12V source.
Yep, that is for sure, my camera requires 5v, but firstly I need to open somehow overhead light. And unfortunately I do not know exactly how.
I assume first stage is to remove individual lights, which are marked as A. But I'm slightly worried why I do not have any screws under eyeglass case.
I will then measure what power sources are available there, there are diode lamp and actually 5v might be available there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I used the power from the auto dimming mirror
Your photo shows a cable coming in from the left that is plugged into what appears to be a USB power source. Is that the power cord to the camera, and is the USB power source an existing source or one that was added during your install?
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top