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thanks for reply.
a moment ago, i removed glove comparment, and checked how it was mounted. then i adjusted postions of the plastic things ( dont know how to call them) which is mounted on the metal brace and glove box is mounted to. i just moved a litlle bit. now it looks much better.
of course, the gap does not affect anything. it is just me who is good at picking bones from eggs. :=)
 

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on post number 4/5 where are the 2 screws that are really hard located at?
As many of us have discovered one can simply swing the glove box down without removing both of these screws. I put a folded up towel on on the floor to hold the glove box up a bit, take off the metal bar and pull the filter out that way.
 

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Excellent instructions and results. Two extra tips that may help...

1. To cut the platic brace, I heated a putty knife with a propane torch. Pushed into the plastis on either side it cut through like butter. Very cleanly too.

2. Don't tell your wife you are cutting a piece of the dash in her car until after you are done.
 

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If you choose Midway as the seller for $7.10 and buy 2 the total is under $20 shipped. Forget how often these get changed if it's worth it to save a few bucks and buy two.
 

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Cabin Filter Replacement

Thank you to everyone who took the time to go into detail and post photos to make this a much easier job. I just finished with a 2004 MDX touring and thought a few comments might help others:

1. Removing the fuse box cover (not the fuse box door) makes removal of the outside hinge screw a whole lot easier. The screw is well recessed and only an inch or two above the cover. Removing it with the cover in place would be hard, but getting it re-started while holding the glove box in place without dropping it inside the cover would be even more of a challenge. Removal of the fuse box cover was not as easy for me as for others. Note that the top corner hinge of the fuse box door on the engine side is not strongly attached. I broke this plastic hinge (more like a small tab) while removing the cover, but with the fuse door closed, it still remains firmly in place. To remove the cover, remove the fastener that screws into the carpet at the front side. Then slide the back of the cover towards the front of the vehicle while pulling outward. It will feel as though the cover has another fastener in it, but there is nothing else to loosen. There is a plastic clip at the top rear of the cover that is released by pushing the top aft corner forward while pulling it away from the panel. There is also a plastic alignment post that is part of the back of the cover near the bottom that pulls straight out. When reinstalling, I found it helpful to get the bottom aft part back under the trim and then gently pull the trim out to get the rest of the back edge of the cover behind it.

2. The glove box stop tabs were very snug and I opted to leave them in and angle the box to remove and reinstall, lifting the passenger door side out first on removal. Once removed, I put the glove box on the back seat to prevent any surface scratches.

3. Instead of separating the damper, I removed the screw. The damper will retract, but I could easily reach it and pull it back out for re-attachment.

4. The plastic part that needs to be removed has openings in the inner edges where it needs to be cut so that it is not a solid continuous piece. The part that needs to be cut is pretty thick and my Dremel did a great job here. At least one contributor said that only one side of the plastic piece needs to be cut, and I replaced the filter after cutting only one side. But it was apparent after replacing the filter that the cut side would be loose and possibly rattling. As others noted, the plastic does not appear to serve any purpose since the metal brace is directly behind it, and instead of reattaching the cut side with adhesive, I cut the other side and removed it.

5. If you choose to put the removed fasteners on the carpet, and you vacuum the debris out after removing the filter, don't suck any of them up if you put the vacuum nozzle down. I did this to remove some stuff the vacuum didn't, but luckily nothing got sucked up.

Again, thanks to the many others who contributed here and especially to the first poster in the thread who went into such great detail with pictures. If anything I've posted here does not work for your particular MDX, please respond with a correction.
 

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thats odd, and alot more work than necessary, on my 08 i emptied my glove box, and opened it all the way by pushing in the sides from the bottom and it pops ou and you can pull out the filter and change it, takes me 10 min tops, i also put dryer sheets in there as the smell of the heating and ac is not so nice and acura said oh well alot of cars are like that.
 

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Nice thread. My filter hadn't been replaced at 107,000, which isn't very comforting (I just bought my 2005 mdx two weeks ago). On the up-side, you guys saved me a lot of time and money with great instructions on replacing it.
 

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Is this the in-cabin air filter behind the glove box?? I replaced mine in the past but never had to cut off any piece?
 

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I've replaced with the new Fram filter yesterday and man did the old filter look beyond dirty. LOL! One thing I didn't do (smart or stupid) was put back the horizontal metal guard that way I can change the next filter schedule faster by simply just snap loose the 2 stoppers and 1 screw at the bottom left of the glove box. Thanks for the easy to follow guide.

What year is your car mealto?
 

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mealto, yea you have an easier way to get to your cabin filter...

http://www.mdxers.org/forums/18-maintenance/32983-2nd-gen-mdx-diy-changing-cabin-air-filter.html
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slightly back on topic

some manufacturers are now making charcoal impregnated filters... are they really better at eliminating odors as well?

I've ordered a charcoal filter for my nissan with no noticeable changes, but it was still cheaper than local brick-n-mortar stores ( rockauto.com )

going to look into it for the X as well if it's cheap enough
 

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New owner of old MDX

I purchased a 2003 MDx recently with 175k miles & among other things decided to change the pollen filter which turned out to be super dirty. I read the other posts & thought I'd post pics of the remarkable amount of leaves that tumbled out (unfortunately the flash didn't go off so I hope its viewable). Also if you're doing this I'd recommend cleaning the blower motor at the same time as you have to drop the glove compartment for both ... in my case the blower was making a lot of noise on high velocity & it had a bunch of leaves in there also when you're at the filter, the blower is right next to it so its only a few extra minutes to drop the motor if the way is open. After realizing how open this airway system is to being quickly re-contaminated, I removed the wipers, cleaned out the tray which had a ton of debris just waiting there to get into the filter again & sealed up the open wiper holes with silicone sealer & sealed other cracks that opened up when I lifted the tray so I shouldn't have to re-do this again for a long time now & the motor runs like new. This is a high mileage MDx but I love the car & maybe can get another 150k out of her.... hopefully will be worth the love !
 

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2001 MDX 144000 miles. Trans cooler in 2017
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Thank you Hockeyplayer for your thorough instructions.
I put the information together in one Microsoft Document "How to replace pollen filter" for reference. Of course credit to hockeyplayer. I can't attach the document on this forum, so if anyone is interested please let me know.
Hello hockey player please send a copy of how to replace cabin air filher too!
 
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