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I just fixed the P0847 error that came up in my 2008 MDX so I'll do a quick writeup on what I did. A few months ago I got this error and even though it's the 3rd clutch switch, I lost my 5th gear. I reset the code and the error didn't come up again. Just recently the error reappeared and this time it kept coming back no matter how many times I reset the code. Time to replace it.

I did watch an online Youtube video which kind of shows how it is done but a lot of steps were missing.

I ordered:
28610-RKE-004 - 3rd clutch solenoid
90471-PW7-A00 - 10mm O-ring gasket

Tools used:
22mm deep socket
1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive impact extension set (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPBD8)

1. Disconnect negative terminal of battery
2. Jack up the driver side front wheel and remove the wheel
3. Remove the fender liner in the wheel well. It's supported by a couple of those round plastic retainer clips. No need to remove the whole thing, just enough to access the transmission side of the engine. I'd say remove up to half way. You probably will need to remove the retainer clips under the bumper area as well. By doing this, you will have more room to reach the solenoid switch from the left side.
Once you do that, you should be able to pull the fender liner out and have it hang over your axle.
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4. Looking at the transmission area, you should now be able to see a couple of electrical cables. The 3rd clutch solenoid is going to be hard to see or access until you disconnect another electrical cable first. I marked that in the diagram below. Grip the connector tab to disconnect #1 and it will make #2 (the solenoid) more visible. In the photo, it has already been removed, but you will see that access to the solenoid switch is straight in front of you.
114768


Grip the connector and disconnect #2. You should now see the end of the solenoid switch where the electrical contacts are

5. To remove the solenoid, you will need a 22mm socket. Since the solenoid is so deep and with so little room to access with a wrench, I found it easier to use a 22mm deep socket. Then I connected the 9" extender, and then I connected another 6" extender, before connecting to my breaker bar. With the extension that long, I was able to unscrew the solenoid switch with just enough room within the wheel well.

6. You should now have been able to successfully remove the solenoid switch. A little bit of transmission fluid will begin to seep out of the hole and you may want to clean it up.

7. Now put the O-ring gasket with the new solenoid switch. Use the breaker bar again and do the reverse - screwing in the replacement solenoid switch. Honestly wasn't sure how much to torque this down, but I just tightened it till it felt secure but not overly tight.

8. Put the fender liner back in place and all the plastic retainer clips

9. Reconnect the battery

Congratulations! You've completed the repair and probably saved yourself a couple hundred dollars from getting it repaired at the dealership.
 
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