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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I had a mechanic change my transmission fluid and when I turned on the car after changing the fluid I started getting a check engine light and then eventually a sh-awd light.

Checked the codes it was p0154, ordered the oxygen sensor and replaced it a few days, cleared the code, but the code keeps coming back. Also had a few other codes come up before and after.

The first picture either came on before I changed the sensor or just after, not sure. Second picture is a code that came on after changing the sensor.

I have some lumpy idle issues at times (noticed when I first bought the car in february, after the engine warms up and its idling for a few minutes). I thought maybe this was the oxygen sensor.

Is this just a bad replacement oxygen sensor? What else should I look to check for diagnosis? Admittedly, I ordered the sensor off ebay (china). It had 6 pins (5 wires). Picture is of the sensor I removed.


Screenshot_20210709-213854_Torque.jpg
Screenshot_20210712-153953_Torque.jpg


20210709_210434.jpg
 

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The problem is that you replaced it with a cheap sensor. One thing I’ve learned with Honda is replace critical sensors with Honda oem parts or as another poster mentioned Denso.
 

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Also make sure you changed the correct bank. I think Bank 2 is the one close to radiator

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Double check. I am not sure.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I replaced bank 2, sensor 1, which is closest to the radiator. I think I will just order a Denso sensor and try again. The chinese ebay sensor guy agreed to a refund, so no loss other then valuable time...
 

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2022 MDX Aspec / 2019 Ridgeline Sport / 2007 335i Coupe
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The primary sensor is the sensor that is the most important to run correctly. The downstream one is just to check catalytic efficiency.

When replacing the primary sensor, I believe it is hooked into a bracket. Both sides need to be removed and then both connectors can connect fully. If you try to connect it while in the bracket, it will seat and hold but the pins may not mate and give you an open circuit. You can test the heating element of the O2 with a multimeter just to make sure it’s not an open circuit. If all is good, remove the connector from the bracket and seat it fully and then reset the engine light , check to see if the open circuit goes stays away, then mount the mated connectors back into the bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I went to put the OEM sensor back while I waited for the Denso replacement. I noticed that one of the other sensors was already replaced by some china sensor (I think all these chinese ones have bright blue wire loom). When I removed the sensor that I had replaced I also noticed that the white and grey wires were in swapped positions compared to the OEM sensor. I pulled those pins out and swapped them to match the OEM molex layout. Plugged it back in, cleared the codes and went for a 20 min test drive.

The codes did not come back..fingers crossed that this was the issue.

I wonder why the white and grey wires were swapped in the replacement...some shoddy manufacturing.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for these sensors?
 
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