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Since last 16k miles(i.e. the time i started keeping log), independent mechanic, i bring in oil and filter and give them to change. I am sticking with 15k mile interval for full drain and replace filter as per oil specification( Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic oil + Mobil 1 filter). Will be now switching to 10k miles or 1 year whichever happens earlier. I check regularly and top up if the oil is low.
 

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I ended up trading mine in... The dealership were asshats... I told them there was something weird going on with the oil - the MDX had around 22,000 miles on it - they were trying to blame me for causing the oil burning.....
 

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I too may ultimately end up trading ours as our oil consumption remains high. Various additives have yet to yield positive results.
The local dealership said they couldn’t do any oil consumption test due to a “leak” that was nonexistent or dripping anywhere. They were more than happy to offer to charge to fixe it BEFORE conducting an OCT.
We received paperwork this week regards class action filed for this very issue however, it only appears to cover out of pocket costs for repairs. I didn’t see where it may force the hand of a dealer to perform the work on an obviously affected vehicle.
 

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So, mine is finally in the shop for the warranty repair (parts were backordered). I asked for a new timing belt prior to them beginning the job, which I had planned. However, when they had the engine apart they called and strongly suggested I also replace the tensioner (+$278), oil pump seal (+$558), and rear engine bolt? (+$134). I opted for the tensioner and oil pump re-seal jobs after doing some quick forum searching, and both seemed legitimate, although expensive. I hope I'm not getting hosed.

Furthermore, they are adjusting the valve lash, which they said is included as part of the repair procedure. But when I requested that the adjustments be notated, they acted surprised and said no one had asked for this before. Obviously, the main reason I insisted on the notes was to verify the work had actually been performed - which leads me to this point...
Playing this song and dance with the dealership service dept is like walking a tightrope...on one hand you want the warranty work completed (and done right), but you also don't want to get screwed with BS work...you have to be polite, but stand your ground when something seems amiss - in which case you're basically calling them lairs - and have to continue working with them. I hate it.

A few Q's:
1. Would it be going too far to ask for the old parts back? I want to be certain they complete the job, but I'm sure they'll think I don't trust 'em.
2. Is there any warranty on the repair work?
3. Is the dealer supposed to reimburse for the mandatory oil change ($75) for the oil consumption test?
 

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However, when they had the engine apart they called and strongly suggested I also replace the tensioner (+$278), oil pump seal (+$558), and rear engine bolt? (+$134).
1) Tensioner should ALWAYS be replaced along with the TB, pulleys and water pump.
2) Oil pump seal is advisory, yes. Make sure $558 includes the new oil pump as well.
3) What the hell is a rear engine bolt?

Furthermore, they are adjusting the valve lash, which they said is included as part of the repair procedure.
Well, I would hope that valve clearances are at least checked after removing and reinstalling the heads...

A few Q's:
1. Would it be going too far to ask for the old parts back? I want to be certain they complete the job, but I'm sure they'll think I don't trust 'em.
2. Is there any warranty on the repair work?
3. Is the dealer supposed to reimburse for the mandatory oil change ($75) for the oil consumption test?
1) Not at all. Tell them that you are curious as to what the old parts condition was before replacing them. Nothing wrong with that.
2) In my case Acura always provided 1 year warranty for any work they have done on my car, but you should ask them about the warranty to confirm.
3) I do not know.
 

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1) Tensioner should ALWAYS be replaced along with the TB, pulleys and water pump.
2) Oil pump seal is advisory, yes. Make sure $558 includes the new oil pump as well.
3) What the hell is a rear engine bolt?

Well, I would hope that valve clearances are at least checked after removing and reinstalling the heads...



1) Not at all. Tell them that you are curious as to what the old parts condition was before replacing them. Nothing wrong with that.
2) In my case Acura always provided 1 year warranty for any work they have done on my car, but you should ask them about the warranty to confirm.
3) I do not know.
Wow - I really appreciate the info and quick response AA!

Concerning the oil pump seal job, I don't think they're actually replacing the entire pump, but from what I've read, there's quite a bit of additional labor in cleaning up the mating surfaces and resealing...but you're right $558 sounds pretty high having the car already apart...what do you suggest I do if they did not replace the oil pump?

Also, since you seem very knowledgeable, do you recommend driving hard immediately after picking up the MDX to correctly bed/seat the new rings?
 

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Concerning the oil pump seal job, I don't think they're actually replacing the entire pump, but from what I've read, there's quite a bit of additional labor in cleaning up the mating surfaces and resealing...but you're right $558 sounds pretty high having the car already apart...what do you suggest I do if they did not replace the oil pump?
Oh, so that was done already. Nothing you can do now, as everything has already been put back together, and the majority of the cost is labour. Did you do it at official Acura? If yes, they should have replaced the pump (that's what they do in these cases, which for me makes sense, as the pump is inexpensive and you want to make sure you won't have to go back and redo it). Just look at your write up, everything that was done should be there, including parts and cost.

Also, since you seem very knowledgeable, do you recommend driving hard immediately after picking up the MDX to correctly bed/seat the new rings?
Definitely not. New pistons and rings - I would want to break them in first.
 

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That's actually how you break them in :) Some high RPM driving, compression braking, etc. Helps the rings seat better. Google the "motoman method".
completely disagree.
 

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SO I have a 2011 MDX with 96,000 on it. Just found out about this letter today, as I bought it in 3/2019 after the letters were mailed. I burn 1 quart every 1000 miles and have noticed that since last summer. I'm going to call the Acura dealer Monday, but here are my concerns
1) I'm not ready to do the Timing Belt,etc yet. . . I'm waiting probably 10k more... . SO ....
2) Is this really worth doing to save the $100.00 per year it's costing me to put a quart of oil in every 1000 miles? IS it going to prolong the engine's life? By reading this forum, it seems like it's an incredible hassle getting the dealership to honor this recall and to do it FOR FREE and then are we sure it'll work and not make something worse?

Did anyone else just decide to deal with the quart every 1000 miles? Thanks, ERIC
 

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Timing belt is 7yrs or 105K miles whichever comes first. Just saying.

I cannot say for certain that oil consumption harms engine or not, but my '11 had been consuming oil since 65K; now it's 124K. However, I was qualified for repair and scheduled to bring it in June 2020.

I think the warranty extension for the oil comsumption for your model year had expired. It is 8 yrs/125000 miles whichever comes first. As for the recent settlement letter, the out of pocket claim is expired today (02/28/2020).


Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
 

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Timing belt is 7yrs or 105K miles whichever comes first. Just saying.

I cannot say for certain that oil consumption harms engine or not, but my '11 had been consuming oil since 65K; now it's 124K. However, I was qualified for repair and scheduled to bring it in June 2020.

I think the warranty extension for the oil comsumption for your model year had expired. It is 8 yrs/125000 miles whichever comes first. As for the recent settlement letter, the out of pocket claim is expired today (02/28/2020).


Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
Hey Eric, Im exactly the same as you. 2011 63,XXX. Burning between 1/2 and 1qt oil per 1,000 miles. Dealer in central NJ who ive been with for 9 yrs was giving me the run around, just topping it up for me and sending me on my way. I just check it and add oil. Drives great too. Im not sure what to do with it. Have no issues as of now apart from adding oil. The dealer has gone down hill the last 2 times ive been, failed to do oil changes correctly etc. There is no way i trust them to rush through an engine job. I know theyll screw it up. Im just adding redline. Ill get the mechanic to add BG EPR when i do my next oil change and ill just try and keep the carbon/cat clean. Or ill trade. Not sure.

In any case we've missed the deadline for the dealer to do it for free, also the warranty deadline is up. It's taken me 9 years to get to 63,000, id be happy if i just have to add some oil to get to 124,000 like nzone above. Id even consider paying for the piston job. If i pay $2k and it lasts another 9 years it's better than buying a new suv?
 

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Hey Eric, Im exactly the same as you. 2011 63,XXX. Burning between 1/2 and 1qt oil per 1,000 miles. Dealer in central NJ who ive been with for 9 yrs was giving me the run around, just topping it up for me and sending me on my way. I just check it and add oil. Drives great too. Im not sure what to do with it. Have no issues as of now apart from adding oil. The dealer has gone down hill the last 2 times ive been, failed to do oil changes correctly etc. There is no way i trust them to rush through an engine job. I know theyll screw it up. Im just adding redline. Ill get the mechanic to add BG EPR when i do my next oil change and ill just try and keep the carbon/cat clean. Or ill trade. Not sure.

In any case we've missed the deadline for the dealer to do it for free, also the warranty deadline is up. It's taken me 9 years to get to 63,000, id be happy if i just have to add some oil to get to 124,000 like nzone above. Id even consider paying for the piston job. If i pay $2k and it lasts another 9 years it's better than buying a new suv?
I think with your situation , only driving 7,000 miles/yr , I'd just top it off every 1000 miles and be happy! I drive 20,000-25,000/yr and got the car with 76,000 on it. I still think if it's not doing any damage burning the 1 quart/1000 miles I'll just top it off. BUT if I hear that's really shortening the life of the motor I'll have to rethink. . I had a 2006 Honda Pilot prior to this and sold it with 230,000 mile on it and it never burned an ounce of oil. . .Sigh

Eric
 

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Hey Eric, Im exactly the same as you. 2011 63,XXX. Burning between 1/2 and 1qt oil per 1,000 miles. Dealer in central NJ who ive been with for 9 yrs was giving me the run around, just topping it up for me and sending me on my way. I just check it and add oil. Drives great too. Im not sure what to do with it. Have no issues as of now apart from adding oil. The dealer has gone down hill the last 2 times ive been, failed to do oil changes correctly etc. There is no way i trust them to rush through an engine job. I know theyll screw it up. Im just adding redline. Ill get the mechanic to add BG EPR when i do my next oil change and ill just try and keep the carbon/cat clean. Or ill trade. Not sure.

In any case we've missed the deadline for the dealer to do it for free, also the warranty deadline is up. It's taken me 9 years to get to 63,000, id be happy if i just have to add some oil to get to 124,000 like nzone above. Id even consider paying for the piston job. If i pay $2k and it lasts another 9 years it's better than buying a new suv?
I think with your situation , only driving 7,000 miles/yr , I'd just top it off every 1000 miles and be happy! I drive 20,000-25,000/yr and got the car with 76,000 on it. I still think if it's not doing any damage burning the 1 quart/1000 miles I'll just top it off. BUT if I hear that's really shortening the life of the motor I'll have to rethink. . I had a 2006 Honda Pilot prior to this and sold it with 230,000 mile on it and it never burned an ounce of oil. . .Sigh

Eric
 

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If it helps, i have 2011 with 68k miles, i will continue to check and top up. I am using Mobile 1 EP Fully synthetic oil. Burning around a quart every 1k miles. Depending on my usage will either keep doing that or sell the car at some time as the problem is not going away no matter what you do.

Apparently even the warranty work will not 'fix' the problem as they have not changed the faulty design of the ring. You will just get more life as the counter kind of resets.

And yes my NJ Stealer was also topping off engine oil for a long time and I only realized recently when I started testing the oil consumtion and checked my old receipts from when I was in US.
 

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Ok so My latest oil check has got me worried. I did a check today and saw no oil on the stick :eek:. Tried 3 times, same result. Quickly topped it up but to me surprise it was at top mark in just 2 quarts, whats going on?

Here is the history since my last full oil & filter change

66374 - Oil & Filter changed - measured to half mark on stick, oil was light color
67275 - Oil was near lower bar, so added half quart which was slightly above half mark
68796 - No oil on stick, showed light color, topped up 2 quarts, oil checked showed little dark.

I dont see any oil spill on the ground. The driveway is at a slight angle so I dont know if thats the reason for low level but thats how I always measure so it has been consistent from that point.

What should I do? Looks like just topping off may not be a viable solution for too long...
 
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