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It’s time for A1 service and I was wondering which oil and filter makes sense to use .

Is that much difference between 0W20 or Mobile 1 . Am I gaining anything for switching to full sythentic .

Dealer has done oil change so far and now I think it’s time for me to do DIY at least for oil ..
 

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I see no point in using Acura's semi-synthetic oil when 6Qts of Mobil 1 can be bought at Costco for less. Specifically, I buy the Mobil 1 0W-20 "AFE" (Advanced Fuel Economy) oil, which around here is about $35/case but is regularly on sale for under $30. It probably performs a bit better than OEM, certainly no worse, so why even consider the OEM?

I also use FRAM's XG7317 Ultra synthetic oil filter, which again may be better but certainly not worse. I keep a stock of the aluminum sealing rings for the drain plug, which should be replaced each time (purchased a dozen from OemAcuraParts.com).

At the same time you should replace the engine air filter. I have been using the Ecogard XA10486 (I can never find the FRAM part). Also, replace the cabin air filter using FRAM CF10134, which has carbon and baking soda to keep the smells down.

Walmart carries the FRAM line at competitive prices so no need to order off of the internet for some things. Others may need ordering. I keep enough for one or two future services so I don't have to chase parts when the time arises.
 

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I always recommend full synthetic. Mobil 1 0W20 AFE is affordable and readily available. Personally, I use Mobil 1 0W20 EP, for a little more peace of mind with the MID not recommending changes for ~10k miles.


I've normally used Mobil 1 M1-110 filters. They used to be among the best. However, they're manufactured by Champion Labs, who filed for bankruptcy, and I'm worried quality may suffer. I did an oil change for a family members vehicle, yesterday, and I exchanged the M1-110A they brought me because there was some glue on the base plate that didn't look right.


I'm undecided what filter I will switch to... Maybe Napa Gold / Wix. But I will avoid FRAM, for sure.
 

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What I do -

- Use Mobile 1 Adv Fuel Economy 0W20 full synthetic purchased at Walmart in a 5 quart jug for $23 or so. I've never seen 0W-20 in a blend anywhere other than at the Acura dealer in Acura branded containers. I think full syn is better than a blend.

- Use OEM Honda oil filter purchased from a dealer (either local or online - online's cheaper unless you talk the local into price matching). These aren't expensive - maybe around $6-7 or so.

- Use OEM Acura engine air filter.

- Use OEM Acura cabin filter.

- I rotate my tires myself at the same time I change the oil.

- I now change the oil filter from the passenger side wheel well opening. It's much easier than doing it from underneath and I don't spill a drop of oil this way. I use a 'form-a-funnel' to catch and direct the oil from the filter location to a catch pan.

The above two points are tied together - i.e. while I have the right front jacked up and the wheel off to change the oil filter I just continue with moving it around on the tire rotation.
 

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Personally, I use Mobil 1 0W20 EP, for a little more peace of mind with the MID not recommending changes for ~10k miles.
Checking around, a few reviewers had lab tests on the oil at 10k miles, and the AFE was estimated to be good for another 2k miles, and the EP for another 7k. It seems to me that the AFE is plenty good enough when following the MID recommendations, but for those who want to stretch out oil changes the EP would be a better choice. Interesting alternative but I'll stick with the MID and AFE.

But I will avoid FRAM, for sure.

I gather that some people have a low opinion of FRAM filters, perhaps with some justification. However, the Ultra Synthetic oil filters have been doing extraordinarily well with oil lab tests at 10k miles, and at least one reviewer offered that he would not use the less expensive FRAMs but was much impressed with the Ultra. So if going with FRAM it looks like the Ultra Synthetic is a good choice. YMMV


As for the cabin air filter, it turns out that the original filter that shipped on the car had a carbon-impregnated filter, which is not what is sold by Acura parts. I certainly don't see any problem with the FRAM, but then again this isn't particularly complicated or high tech.
 

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Mobil 1 0w-20... either AFE or EP. Buy from wal-Mart or amazon. If you look intermittently, you can always get 5 quarts for less than $25.

I’ve used the M1 filters too, but usually use the Acura OEM filters. Can buy 5-6 from eBay for only $5-6 each.

Note: if you change your own oil (agree with the form-a-funnel to help drain into pan) then go ahead and change your rear differential, front gear box, and transmission fluid too! Super easy, saves a ton of money, you know it gets done correctly, and I can lift the car and change the fluids faster than taking to dealer and waiting around. And yes to cabin and engine filters. Why anyone would pay the dealer for this stuff is beyond me???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Note: if you change your own oil (agree with the form-a-funnel to help drain into pan) then go ahead and change your rear differential, front gear box, and transmission fluid too!

True for the 6-speed tranny, but the 9-speed in the 2016 and later is not easy and not recommended for DIY. There is not even a dip stick. The process is to very slightly overfill the transmission, then warm it up while on the lift using a limited number of gears, then open a drain plug on the side to drain off the excess. It is very sensitive to the ATF temperature, so that is critical. This is where Acura hiding the transmission temperature in a proprietary packet on the OBD2 really rankles. Even my mechanic told me to take it to the dealer...
 

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I gather that some people have a low opinion of FRAM filters..
While I'm only using OEM Honda oil filters on the MDX, I've been using Fram oil filters on my other vehicles for many hundreds of thousands of miles over the course of over 45 years of driving and have never had an issue with a Fram oil filter, and this includes more filters per given mileage range since all my other vehicles have had change intervals of 3000 miles and 4500 miles. I still use them in my other (very old) vehicles. Note that I fairly recently donated one of the vehicles that had over 225K miles of Fram oil filters and the engine was still going strong. My daily driver has at least several hundred thousand miles on it, all with Fram oil filters, and it's fine - and it's been well over 100K miles since I last rebuilt the engine in it.

I'm actually not an advocate but Fram has worked well for me for many years and miles and has been in the business a long time and I think can manage to design and make an oil filter reasonably well. The other major manufacturers are likely fine as well, and one can't go wrong with an OEM filter where the manufacturer has a lot at stake in warranty work and reputation if it doesn't work well and the manufacturer has the engineering and QA resources to specify the requirements and source inspect the supplier.
 

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While I'm only using OEM Honda oil filters on the MDX, I've been using Fram oil filters on my other vehicles for many hundreds of thousands of miles over the course of over 45 years of driving and have never had an issue with a Fram oil filter...

I'm actually not an advocate but Fram has worked well for me for many years and miles and has been in the business a long time and I think can manage to design and make an oil filter reasonably well.
Honeywell, the parent company of FRAM, currently manufactures the Honda/Acura OEM filters. So that is why I avoid the A02 Honda/Acura filters, now. Before they switched to Honeywell, I liked the A01 filters.


It's a common belief that FRAM is crap. I'm not alone in that.


Come to think of it, I'm only aware of TWO engine failures that were conclusively proven to be because of bad oil filters. Both used FRAM filters. That is anecdotal, of course. There are probably more than 2 engine failures due to bad oil filters. Also, FRAM sells a LOT of filters, so even if they were comparable quality to everything else on the market then they'd be more likely to have a failure.... But that's all beside the point. Of the failures I know about, FRAM was always involved. There is also a lot of teardown videos that show sub-par materials and construction of the FRAM filters. Some argue that the FRAM construction/materials are "good enough" and that better-built filters are just over-built... Maybe. But they're all around the same price, so I'll take over-built rather than good-enough... Especially with all the speculation that good-enough, isn't.


As for the "they make a lot of filters, therefore they must know what they're doing" argument.... Again, maybe. Chrysler makes a lot of cars -- they also generally suck. Popularity RARELY correlates favorably with quality. Also, a company may KNOW how to make a good product, but that doesn't mean they DO it. In fact, I'd argue that many "value/cheap" products are designed by people who have an excellent understanding of HOW to build something well -- and they use their expertise to design something that cuts every corner possible, to get the cost down. Basically, the argument is that someone who builds something cheap/crappy that usually doesn't fail is probably a bigger expert than someone who just over-builds the product to ensure there are no unacceptable failures.


Anywho... Oil threads... Fun stuff.
 

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Checking around, a few reviewers had lab tests on the oil at 10k miles, and the AFE was estimated to be good for another 2k miles, and the EP for another 7k. It seems to me that the AFE is plenty good enough when following the MID recommendations, but for those who want to stretch out oil changes the EP would be a better choice. Interesting alternative but I'll stick with the MID and AFE.
The cost difference is only between $0 and 5 per oil change, so I feel better with the EP and the extra peace of mind. That said, I can't fault anyone for choosing AFE -- it certainly should be sufficient.


I gather that some people have a low opinion of FRAM filters, perhaps with some justification. However, the Ultra Synthetic oil filters have been doing extraordinarily well with oil lab tests at 10k miles, and at least one reviewer offered that he would not use the less expensive FRAMs but was much impressed with the Ultra. So if going with FRAM it looks like the Ultra Synthetic is a good choice. YMMV
Yes, I've taken apart both the FRAM "Orange Can of Death" and the FRAM Ultra. The Ultra is a considerably better filter. I choose to avoid FRAM because I dislike the company, and I don't want to support them while they intentionally put the Orange Can of Death into the market. I try to vote with my wallet, when I can.


As for the cabin air filter, it turns out that the original filter that shipped on the car had a carbon-impregnated filter, which is not what is sold by Acura parts. I certainly don't see any problem with the FRAM, but then again this isn't particularly complicated or high tech.
Interesting. I'll have to pay attention to that when I change my cabin filter. It's odd that Acura would use a different part in the factory than what they stock for the dealers.
 

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As for the "they make a lot of filters, therefore they must know what they're doing" argument....
What I'm saying is that a company that's long-lived and does a large amount of business usually has the knowledge and resources to do a decent job - i.e. in the area of engineering the design, having the appropriate tooling for the build, having appropriate test equipment, the experience provides for the ability to have performed process improvements, etc. It's no guarantee but it's generally the case.

As for Chrysler - (anecdotes) I owned a Jeep Cherokee and a Dodge Durango and both were good vehicles. I kept the former for over 100K miles and the latter for over 200K miles. The Fram filtered engines in both were still going strong and the transmissions in both were the originals as well - something that apparently can't be said for a number of Acura vehicles of the same vintage (from what I read on forums).

Back to the filters - I've read some of the blog posts regarding Fram by random people who aren't automotive engineers. I guess I have more confidence in the manufacturers and specifiers and engineers than some of the random people with opinions do. I think if Honda chose Honeywell as their supplier for this part they involved their own engineering and QA groups in doing so and at the end of the day determined the part would function for the purpose in the vehicles they put their name on and back with their warranties. I'm sure out of millions of filters in use in harsh environments by users all across the board, including some who might never actually change the oil filter and including in applications where internal components of the engine are wearing, including degraded valve stem seals, bits of gasket material and gasket sealer, metal components, water, etc. there'll be some handful of filter failures and they likely tend to follow the market trend - i.e. if Fram has 60% of the market (I totally made up that number) then I wouldn't be surprised if around 60% of the failures are Fram.

The Fram oil filters I use in my old cars only need to last around 3K miles. The filters in the MDX need to last up to 10K miles. In neither case do I need them to last 50K or 100K miles. One noticeable difference in the MDX is this tiny Honda oil filter - it's about half the size of the filters I've used in my other vehicles, which means less filter area which is a factor - but one I'll assume Honda engineers have determined is acceptable.

Note - Apparently the Fram/Autolite groups were sold to the Rank Group holdings, a private company out of New Zealand, around 2011 so they're not part of Honeywell anymore.
 
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