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I have read many of the posts regarding when to change our oil the first time and what type of oil to use, and appreciate all of your comments and suggestions, but am faced with the following dilemma.

I just reached 6000 miles (have enjoyed every mile!) and am about to go on a trip. The majority of my driving has been on the highway, so I have not felt that conditions were 'severe' enough to warrant changing it at 3,000 miles, allowing the original oil perform as intended. I was planning to change it at 7,000 miles, as several of you have recommended, but might reach or exceed that mark (but not by much) before returning. The trip will be mostly highway driving, and therefore should not be hard on the engine. (I'll be changing the VTM fluid when I return.)

So, do you think I should change the oil before going or after I return? Which would be better and why?

Also, to help performance in the long run, I plan to use a synthetic oil, which several of you have suggested. The question is, which one to use? Some of you use Mobil 1 and have been satisfied, but I was wondering if anyone has used Castrol's full synthetic oil, and how the two compare. I just met someone who uses both Castrol Syntec and Mobil 1 and feels they perform about the same. In my last car, I used only Castrol regular oil and felt it performed adequately, and so I'm partial to using it now. Is anyone familiar with the comparison between these two and/or other synthetics? Any suggestions (and websites) would be welcome.

Thanks :)
 

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how long did it take you to reach 6000 miles? If you are driving with the original oil at more that 4-5 months, then i would recommend that you go ahead and change the oil. That oil has probably been in your mdx for at least a month prior to you buying it.

With regards to synthetic- I would say there is no need to go synthetic in a MDX. if you drove a s2000 or any other high performance sports car, or did alot of towing then MAYBE i would consider it. personally, i would recommend that u just make sure you change your oil every 3750-4000 miles. I guess it all depends on how long u plan to keep the vehicle. If i was planning on keeping the MDX for >125000 miles(or similarly long time period) THAN the synthetic would help. check out http://www.s2ki.com and search for motor oil recommendations. they have had similar discussions before.

regarding which synthetic is the best- MOBIL 1. the castrol is a synthetic and conventional blend. i.e. it is NOT purely synthetic. it would be cheaper to do your own oil change with 75% conventional oils and 25% mobil 1 than to use the castrol.

btw, it is highly unlikely that u can notice a difference in performance between a conventional oil and synthetic in a brand new engine.

good luck and hope this helps:)
 

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Oil Change Recommendation

I would advise you to change it before you exceed 7500 miles.

Best price I've found on Mobil 1 is $2.94 a quart at Target.

Just some trivia for those wondering about the advantages of Mobil 1:

Mobil AV-1 is their equivalent product for reciprocating aircraft engines. It used to be the ONLY one with a STC (Supplemental Type Certificate) authorizing it's change interval at 200 hours. Conventional oils are (or were) only authorized by the FAA for 50 hours.

For those of us who DO want to drive well into the six-figure realm, I would go with a good PURE synthetic.
 

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Oil costs less than engine repairs! Change it before the trip. IMO, 7500 miles is too long with conventional oils. They start breaking down immediately with subjected to high heats, and produce by products (acids) that do not help with engine life. All car manufactures say 7500 is OK, but it is to keep up with the Jones's. If Lexus was 7500 and Acura was 3000....would that influence buying decisions.

I belive that Synthetics are a good investment once the engine is broken in, There is no doubt that they lubricate better, and do not break down easily. There is probably a gas mileage difference, but you will not see it. Some cars run slightly cooler and smoother with synthetics, but on the Acura I would not expect to notice that either (I saw it on a Ford explorer).

I used Castrol Syntec for years and love it. Great product. It is a synthetic, but that also have a product called "Blend" that is a mix. Get the Syntec if you go Castrol (note: it does have some petroleum products in it, so in some resects it is not completely synthetic, but as far as oil life and function most studies I have seen consider it so)

I started using Mobil 1 when I got my Porsche....it comes from the factory with the stuff. Castrol used to be thier oil of choice, but they decided it was not high enough quality (truth is, Mobil made them better financial offers than Castrol so,,,). Mobil 1 is the original, I understand it is a "pure" synthetic....for what that is worth. Great product as well, can't go wrong with either one. just do not use Quaker State!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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My Two cents on motor oil.

For what it is worth, my father passed down its tradition to me.

http://www.amsoil.com/

I use it in every thing I own with an engine,

MDX; Amsoil series 2000 0w30, (stock Honda oil filter)

Buell X1; Amsoil 20w50, (Fram HP10 racing oil filter)

Craftsman Lawn Mower; Any extra on hand Amsoil, (no oil filter)

Great stuff you only need to chage you MDX's oil once every 12 months or 35K miles with one filter change at the 6 month mark topping off with fresh oil.

Aloha & Mahalo

Nick
 

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Re: My Two cents on motor oil.

The Amway of oils... 35K is too long for any oil. I use mobile 1 and change at 7,500 miles. This is likely too conservative but provides an excellent safety factor and meets warranty requirements.

Nxtr06 said:
For what it is worth, my father passed down its tradition to me.

http://www.amsoil.com/

Nick
 

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Amsoil is good stuff. Has been around motorcycle racing for years. But 35,000 miles??????? No way, how do the generated products, like the acids and "dirt" (metal etc) get removed? "Pay me now, or pay me later......" 7k or so is the MAX you should leave any oil, unless the miles are generated with continuos driving. Oil just sitting is exposed to moisture and everything else. JMO
 

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Rob, most articles I've read say wait until 3K-5K before the switch. With a good synthetic, friction is minimized enough that some parts may not wear in properly.

That said, which is what I will do with my MDX, my Porsche came with Mobil 1 from the factory. They said the Porsche tolerances were tight enough to warrant that approach.

Would advise a wait for the MDX to 3K or so
 

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Mcclendons Porsche...

While I think Honda (Acura) gives us more for the money, it's indisputable that Porsche makes fine automobiles and exceptional powerplants that move them along.

Though the Porsche was DELIVERED with Mobil 1 in the sump, I guarantee you that the folks at the factory broke it in with something else. Mobil 1 is just too slippery for rings to seat, for journal surfaces to polish themselves properly, so on and so forth.

Wait until 7500 miles before switching to Mobil 1 so all the "Good Grinding" can proceed and assure you of a tight motor later on. If I recall correctly from the Owner's manual, it actually cautions you to wait until the 7500 mile interval to change the oil in the rear axle to ensure a proper break-in.

One member has informed me that he's using a (gulp), 0W-30 oil in his MDX?! Anyone else out there have any thoughts on that?
 

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Delta,

Understand your comment on the synthetic, but according to Porsche, their initial fill is synthetic only. Its due to manufacturing tolerances and current machining capability. Belive it or not, the new Vettes are the same! They break-in at factory with M1

That said, waiting a little closer to 4K (or 7.5K) is a good idea IMO. Agree 100% with you there.

On the rear end, I hate to use experience with an Explorer but......
I found that Ford ships with a special additive in the rear over and above the "oil". The additive was critical in make the rear end smooth (I had limited slip, and without the additive, it jerked badly). Acura is probably doing the same...heavy weight rear end oil with an additive for break in.

I know Mobil makes 0-30W, but I would have to live in a cold climate

:eek: :eek: to try it. BTW, from you name, are you an F-16 type????
 

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I just can't believe it...

McClendon,
Could you point me in the direction of where you got the information that they're breaking-in engines at GM and Porsche with Mobil 1? I'm having a hard time with that...

As to your experience with a, yech, Fix-Or-Repair-Daily, Positrac rear end, Limited Slip Differentials have ALWAYS to my knowledge, had a "Friction Enhancer" additive specified for the fluid. Was/is needed to get the wet clutches to grab each other properly.

Positracs are strange beasts. If you don't believe me, jack up one side of a regular rear-ended car with the drive wheel of one side on the ground. Start it and then put it in gear. TA-DA, the wheel OFF the ground moves.

Try the same thing with a Positrac (Limited Slip) car and you'll run it off the jackstand.

Naaaahhhh, I don't work military jets. I work in Delta's Engine Shop on the Pratt & Whitney 2037 Line. Powers the 757. Motor uses Exxon Turbo Oil 2380. Do NOT make the mistake of a guy I heard about who put it in his car!
 

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oil chang interval

I am sure synthetic oil lasts much longer than conventional oil, but Acura wants the oil changed @ 7.5k (or 3.75k for severe), no matter what oil is used.

Page 262 of 2001 Owner's Manual: "When using synthetic oil, you must follow the oil and filter change intervals given in the maintenance schedule."

To keep up with warranty requirements, I think this should be the maximum interval, no matter what.

Personally, I like to change between 3.5k and 4k. I use conventional name brand 5w30 and Honda filter. I buy the Honda filter at the Honda dealer, saves a buck plus.
 

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Ditto ...

... follow the manual.

Oil is cheap folks!
 

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I've read studies that indicate the Mobil One is the best off the shelf synthetic you can buy. Castrol was well down the list. Valvoline full syn oil ranks pretty high also.
 

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I used Castrol Syntec for years and love it. Great product. It is a synthetic, but that also have a product called "Blend" that is a mix. Get the Syntec if you go Castrol (note: it does have some petroleum products in it, so in some resects it is not completely synthetic, but as far as oil life and function most studies I have seen consider it so)

I started using Mobil 1 when I got my Porsche....it comes from the factory with the stuff. Castrol used to be thier oil of choice, but they decided it was not high enough quality (truth is, Mobil made them better financial offers than Castrol so,,,). Mobil 1 is the original, I understand it is a "pure" synthetic....for what that is worth. Great product as well, can't go wrong with either one. just do not use Quaker State!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [/B][/QUOTE]

I tend to agree with you. Castrol is the way to go!!! Here's my opinion on it. If Honda Racing put Castrol in there Formula one race cars, motorcycles and SCCAA cars...Then why shouldnt we use it in our cars???

Castrol is a GREAT product! Love the stuff. I used to use Castrol 5W30 SYNTEC in my 91 Integra. Now I used it in my S2000. Am currently using Castrol mix in my Acura MDX. Its an expensive oil...but worth every penny.
 

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Oil Change Instructions

Oil Change instructions for Women:
1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the last oil
change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a properly maintained
vehicle.

Money spent:
Oil Change $20.00
Coffee $1.00
Total $21.00


Oil Change instructions for Men:

1) Go to auto parts store and write a check for $50.00 for oil, filter,kitty
litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree.
2) Discover that the used oil container is full. Instead of taking it back to
O'Reilly to recycle, dump in hole in back yard.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: get hot oil on you in process.
12) Clean up mess.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Look for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; poke oil filter with screwdriver and twist off.
16) Beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Finish oil change tomorrow.
18) Next day, drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer. No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket
surface.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Discover that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard, along with
drain plug.
27) Drink beer.
28) Uncover hole and sift for drain plug.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor.
30) Drink beer.
31) Slip with wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December (1992)
36) Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood flow.
38) Beer.
39) Beer.
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush one of the jack stands.
44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during step 23.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
48) Car gets impounded.
49) Make bail.
50) Get car from impound yard.

Money spent:
Parts $50.00
DUI $2500.00
Impound fee $75.00
Bail $1500.00
Beer $25.00
Total $4150.00

-- But you know the job was done right!:p
 

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elf89 - that is a classic. I love it. I have a saying about home improvement ... It only costs twice as much as paying to have it done.. but I get to own a lot of neat tools.
 
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