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Discussion Starter #1
Please confirm if this has to do with the 2010+ re-flash. On my 2010 with 110k, acceleration starts fine, but then the transmission shifts quickly and then if feels like a slight pause before acceleration resumes. It seems a little better in S mode. If I got WOT or near it, its not a problem.

Compared to my J35 5AT Ridgeline, it feels like the acceleration on the X flattens around the 1-2 shift. Once the X is up to speed it feels fine. Its new to me, but there is no punch mark on the vin plate so I am thinking its not flashed yet. I also know I need to do a 3x3 trans change.

Is this a fluid/flash issue, or something different?
 

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Mine shifts like garbage unless my foot is planted to the floor. Has from pretty much day 1. It gets in 2nd (and then 3rd) gear so fast it lugs at anything less than WOT. Seems to be the nature of the beast. I have had the ECM reset and it shifts nice for a few days but then goes back to it's lazy shifting ways.
 

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I heard the 6AT had this problems, It will try to even start in 2nd most of the times when not driving hard and when you absolutely smash it, it will bog down between 2nd and 3rd because it will shift way too early making 2nd gear useless.

Have you take it to a dealer and asked if there isn´t any more updates to the ECU Program?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well the dealership tells me my VIN is not eligible for the TSB. Either it was not included in the original group or it was done and removed form the list. Should I take this information to the bank or try another dealer?
 

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Did you have the reflash? Or is there no reflash for a 2012?
My understanding is that the '12-'13 models came with programming somewhat similar to the reflash of earlier models. I say somewhat similar because the normal auto shifting seems to be the same, but "S" mode is different on the '12-'13.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So other than change the fluid (3x3), it doesn't look like there is too much I can do. The more I drive it, the more I get used to it. It just wants to shift 1-2-3 in the first 25mph. It feels like the clutch is trying to lock up also to drive efficiency. Its just different then the 5AT in my RL. Sport mode helps, but also you need to push down the pedal a little right away to signal to the computer to carry 1st and 2nd more. But then you need to back off it or you will be at 6.5k like you were running a drag race. If you get it right, it carries the gears longer, say into 4k but the shifts are still smooth.

Bottom line is you can adapt to it, but the shifting logic is a little obnoxious at first.

I wonder if a sprint booster may help, because it will send a more aggressive throttle input signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did the 3x3 atf change. It definetly shifts better but the issue is still the same. I got to drive the Ridgeline today, and the gear spacing is a bit wider, which feels smoother but lacks the performance of the shorter 6spd gearing. The rl shifts into 2nd at about 20-25 mph, at 25 the X is in third.

Like I said it takes getting used to but once you learn it, it is manageable.
 

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There isn´t a sport mode you can ride on normally? or its a tad too aggressive for DD??

The Automatic shifting behavior of my 5AT is OKAY-- I don´t like it but I guess its meant to be efficient.. I got used to drive in SS most of the time in my TL-S since I had plenty of mods on it, riding on the stock Automatic shifting pattern was rather boring so I tend to drive on SS most of the times..

The MDX is no different now, I get in and put in Drive but as soon as I get out of my street I engage SS to pretty much get an entire different car, Its like my "Sport" Mode but without the Automatic Shifting. The cool part is that If I ever get bored I just put into the grandma mode and cruise around... I like the MDX, but I like it more on SS 100% of the Times.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree. I just leave it in sport mode until I get on the highway, then into d.

Works pretty well. Like I said just different then the 5at I am used to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK some updates on this...

I disconnected the battery for a while when I installed the trailer harness. After I noticed it shifted a bit different. It carries gears a little longer in D. It has been good since then and that was two weeks ago.

Also I have just gotten used to it. With very light throttle it still shifts up gears 1-3 very fast. Its different than the 5at, which seems like it would carry 1st through an intersection most of the time.

50% reset the computer helped
50% I just got used to it

I pretty much leave it in D all the time now and just click the paddle if I want to override. This works very well.
 

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I have same problem with shifting until I have new Michellin Premier LTX V-rated. It seems, the new tire with good traction and stronger sidewall improve how the power is sent to the road and the transmission responds accordingly.
 

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I've put about 11,000 miles on my '12 MDX since I purchased it in December. Of the 11,000 miles, I have probably only driven 50 of them not using manual mode in sport. The shift mapping is complete garbage and although this is nothing more than an assumption, I would think that a lot of the transmission and torque converter issues stem from the transmission constantly trying to upshift. It seems that without manual shifts, the engine is always at too low of a speed to maintain full lock up in the torque converter, which would cause it to overheat prematurely. Because 6th gear is so tall, I generally don't even use it unless I'm going at least 55mph, unless I'm at a slight downhill grade. When you're trying to do much more than coast below 2K rpm, you'll notice the tach fluctuating every second or so by 100-200rpm. This is the torque converter locking and unlocking, which is annoying at best but can also cause the ATF to heat up much more quickly than it should, and consequently cause premature wear to the torque converter. My fuel economy is easily 1-2mpg less then most other drivers are achieving, but that's the price for having a transmission last longer as well as provide a more enjoyable ride.

As far as the immediate shift into second gear, that's pretty normal if you don't have the gas down a bit more than usual. The pause in acceleration is do to the engine management system cutting the throttle to allow for a smoother shift. Keep in mind that these vehicles have fly-by-wire throttles so even though your foot isn't easing off the throttle, there will be a momentary lull in actual throttle application. I generally ease off the throttle a bit when upshifting, but even if I don't back my foot off the pedal, there is still a slight reduction in throttle until the gear engages. The only time I don't really notice this is at WOT, but it's still probably happens just a hair.

Even when I'm not driving in a spirited manner, I like having full control over the transmission. I do not want the transmission upshifting in the middle of a turn unless I tell it to. I also prefer to keep the engine speed up a bit higher when going up a hill. If I'm stuck behind a slow poke while merging onto the interstate, I commonly hold 3rd gear at 4K until I can hammer on it and get up to speed. Anytime I know I'm going to be mashing the throttle, I always manually downshift so I'm already in gear. The only time I can't do this consistently is if I need to downshift to 1st. But with a little practice, I'm able to blip the throttle enough to initiate a downshift to 1st without looking like a maniac, but if you don't hammer the throttle within a couple of seconds, it auto shifts back up to 2nd.

I've also found that unless you do it just right, the automatic downshifts will skip 2nd gear (this is in sport manual mode). If you don't slow down to less than 5mph or so, it leaves it in 3rd gear, which makes for some really sorry acceleration. On occasion, it will hit 2nd on its own, but I routinely pop it down to 2nd gear after a slow turn. Some people may argue that it's better to leave it in Drive and allow the transmission to shift on its own, but I wholeheartedly disagree. For normal driving, I let the transmission downshift on its own when I'm slowing down, but you obviously don't want to do this if you need any level of acceleration.

I'm about to do a muffler delete on the resonators and replace the rear mufflers with Borla XS. It'll be interesting to see how the reduced back pressure affects the lockup on the torque converter. On my 850 R, it allowed a bit more slip, but I also had a 3500rpm stall in it, so that probably had a lot to do with it.
 
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