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Will be receiving our MDX soon.

Is there still a standard breaking in procedure, i.e. driving at variable speeds, no extended driving at one speed, no driving over 55 mph for 1st 1,000 miles, no excessive hard braking....??

With our last Chrysler minivan, we were told that today's engines don't need to go thru a break-in period.

Also, should the engine oil be changed after the 1st 1,000 miles?
 

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Marfong,
I have the same question. In the manual, no mention of excessive speed and or varying RPM. The Manual states that quick acceleration should be avoided and stomping (sudden hard braking) on the brakes should be avoided. However my sales associates did recommend not to cruise on a constant speed (no cruise control for the first 600 miles), vary speed, do not go over 75 mph for the first 600 miles.

Its hard, especially here in the SF bay area not to go over 55mph (risk of getting shot at for going too slow) unless one take all the side street and avoid freeways. But I also heard stop and go is worse on the engine.... so I would also like to hear what the "newbies" should do to "baby" the MDX.

Incidentally when I bought my bimmer back in '84, no mention of break in period - in the manual or from the sales associates...

Marfong, sorry I couldn't be more help but just to let you know you are not the only one who is confused by the "break in" period.

mike
 

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The only break-in recommendations seem to be on p. 194 of the ('01) Owner's Manual. There's no mention of top speed or varying speed, but varying speed for the first 500-600 miles has been considered a "good thing to do" for many decades. My understanding is that this really refers to varying engine rpm. Therefore, might I suggest that you do what I did for the first 600 miles (in addition to the p. 194 recommendations): On the highway, use Cruise Control when you wish, but shift back and forth between D5 and D4 every 10 minutes or so to vary the engine rpms. If you're driving in town, the rpms are varying all over the place anyway, so you shouldn't have to bother except when you're "cruisin'."

Enjoy that MDX!
 

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New cars these days you don't really need to break-in that much. The car engines are well-built and should be able to use it fully in the beginning. But it doesn't hurt to follow the break-in process. The least you can do is not pushing the car to go very 3000 rpm. In terms of the brakes, you don't have to worry about that. I have to slim on my brakes hard once before 1,000 miles to avoid an accident in front of me....that was a close one.
 

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Here is a break-in procedure that is a blast from the past.
After the first thousand miles (during which I avoid constant speeds) I take a well warmed up car to a quiet stretch of freeway. I slow down to about 40 mph and accelerate moderately fast (no hard accelearation!) to 80 mph and then let the car coast back down to 40mph.
I do this up to 10 - 12 times. Keep an eye on your rear-view mirror or turn up the volume on your radar detector is you have one.
The theory is that it forms the rings in the cylinders, and the coasting period allows them time to operate without stress under full lubrication. In older carbureted cars I think it worked best becasue the coasting period would suck more fuel past the rings, washing away the oil and allowing faster break-in. Modern fuel-injection would basically cut off fuel delivery when there is no demand.
I have done this on several new cars over the years, and have never had a oil burner. Keeping some well up to 150,000 miles.
It's probably not necessary on the latest vehicles. But most important is using good oil, regular changes, and letting the vehicle warm up gradually on cold mornings while driving it. These are probably the most important elements of long engine life.
 

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I agree. One of the most important point is that you should warm up your car every morning before driving your car out of the garage or wherever you are.
 

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Different schools of thought

First of all, you it will be a tough item to put a definite procedure to it. If you own the vehicle I would break in for 1000 miles under 55mph and varing rpm's when driving. I wouls replace oil and filter at 3000 miles then going forward every 3000 miles or 3-4 months. If you lease most prople are following the dealer 3750 miles oil change without filter then 7500 oil and filter change. If you own it for the long run better off safe than sorry once the damage is done you cannot go back. There is no such thing as changing too often, any mechanic will tell you. But if you are leasing you will not have for the long run so it wouldn't really matter. The SUV will becoame someone else's headache, no yours. If you own for a long period of time I don't want mine to burn oil at 45,000 miles, so I am extra careful now. Remember how much you spent on this toy and I think that will tell you how to treat it!!!!!:D
 

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andrewip said:
I agree. One of the most important point is that you should warm up your car every morning before driving your car out of the garage or wherever you are.
I don't agree you should do all the 'warming up' in the garage, at idle or revving it up with no load. If it is very cold out its probably a good idea letting it idle a minute or two. The transmission gets little warm up sitting in a garage, and it will take the engine longer to warm up than if you drive it moderately with a light load for several miles.
 

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Break-In Recipe from my Company's division that builds powerplants:

1. 500 Miles: Oil change and Filter. I keep the filter, and cut it in half. Look for metal particles in the filter material.

2. 1000 Miles: Oil change and filter. Replace tranny fluid.

At this point you can pretty much bet you've flushed out any crud left over from manufacturing. Yes, there's a good bet there is some crud in the engine.

3. 3000 Miles. Oil change and filter again. At this point you pick up the regular maint. cycle. Switch HERE to a synthetic oil if you wish.

4. Use a synthetic oil if you live way up North, or way South, or drive like an unchained banshee.

5. Mobil 1 is their preference (and mine), but pricey.
 

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dbarry I think your taking a little to far

I don't think 500 is quite long enough. You need to keep the break in lube in engine for at least 3000 miles. Most impoetant is not exceeding 55 mph in first 1000 miles and try to vary rpm's and don't use the cruise control yet. Once you hit the 1000 miles take it up as fast as you like at this point and continue the break in for another 2000 miles till you hit the 3k point and do oil and filter. then follow regular 3k or 3months. I also tend to warm up before I drive, in my case I have the auto start by clifford so I don't have to wait in SUV for it to warm up!:D
 

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This is a Honda, not a Ford

Do the oil change at 7500 miles and don't worry about it. For the first 130k miles I changed it every 3k miles in my Accord, then after contacting Honda, they told me it is not needed until 7,500 miles. I've been doing that for the last 110k miles. I still don't burn any oil, don't leak any oil and don't notice any loss of power over the last 13.5 years. The body is still going to go long before the mechanicals. The clutch is still original, too. Still going strong as a daily driver and delivering 35 mpg.

The MDX is to be my backup vehicle in the event that the Accord ever croaks.
 

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No Break-In Lube

Our engine folks say break-in lube isn't used anymore on new gasoline engines.

The point is to flush any manufacturing dirt from the new engine and transmission.

I guess another point is how long you intend to keep you MDX. If you're leasing, who cares?
 

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Re: dbarry I think your taking a little to far

paul123 said:
I also tend to warm up before I drive, in my case I have the auto start by clifford so I don't have to wait in SUV for it to warm up!:D
I hope you don't consider the engine and drive train fully warmed up after letting it sit and idle for a while, and then think it's ok to drive it hard as soon as it starts to move, just because it's warm enough for your tush.
 

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Tush?

My tush never counts. Only the wife's tush counts.
 
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