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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have changed brakes and rotors a bunch of times on all sorts of cars including my 03 MDX and now my 06 mdx. I have seepage on both ends up front and was told I need to replace them. I purchased the 2 best front axles I could find my question is would I need any additional tools to do this job? Also I have a small oil leak that I was told is coming from the top of the engine is that possibly a valve cover gasket? The mechanic said to start at the top replace a gasket then see if you have a leak still then work my way down replaceing gaskets.. he said it's not a huge worry because it's a small amount.. sounds like a lot but I am not purchasing a new car I need to fix this any help.would be greatly appreciated!
 

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As for gaskets, I don't recommend just throwing parts at it. Clean your engine bay well, so there is no built up grease/grit/grime/dirt/oil. Then check it regularly to see where it's coming from. Zero-in on the leak, and solve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Whoaa thank you Soo much!!! Will do! I am also replaceing the rear shocks which I already have purchased as well, I was told those are easy.. we'll see I want Bluetooth so bad I'm a music nut, but I can't see adding a stereo when I haven't fixed major issues first.
 

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So I need to drain my transmission fluid?
If you're doing both sides, yes. The left half shaft acts as a seal and fluid will leak out if you remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The bolt bent and messed the threads up the but partially goes on but stops at that slight bend my finances are extremely limited after parts and 280$ in tools I needed... What can I do to fix this?? Is it possible to replace just this bolt portion? If so how do I remove the ball joint from this lower control arm? Thank you again for all of your help sir!!!!
 

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The LCAs on these are meant to be one part AFAIK, so the ball joints aren't really replaceable on their own. I mean, you might be able to pop it out and press in a new one, but I'm not even sure where you'd get a replacement ball joint by itself and I think you'd end up spending more to get the tool necessary to press it in than you would on a new LCA (which should run you ~$60 according to the current prices on Rockauto).
 

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Lower ball joints ARE replaceable. Moog part number K80281. However, pibcak is correct that you'd need a press and caps and snap ring pliers, so more tools you probably don't own.

That said, replacing the whole control arm isn't a bad idea -- and it's certainly an easier DIY job. The downside is it costs more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Oh, we assumed you were taking about the balljoint in the LCA... The pictures are pretty close, so it was hard to tell you're talking about the tie rod. Outer tie rods can absolutely be replaced, and there's a good chance your local parts house would carry it.

Couple tips:

  1. Count the number of revolutions it takes to remove the outer tie rod. When installing the replacement, screw it on the same number of turns.
  2. You MUST take your vehicle and have an alignment performed after removing/replacing/adjusting the tie rods.
 

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Here you go... just make sure that you select only a LOWER control arm (they're very obvious visually, too).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acura,2006,mdx,3.5l+v6,1432637,suspension,control+arm,10401


And FYI, you generally want to replace both LCAs at the same time, and you WILL need an alignment after (usually in the $40's on special or Groupon around here).


And also - whatever it was that you did when you bent / munged the old ball joint threads... don't do that again. ;-)
 

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Here you go... just make sure that you select only a LOWER control arm (they're very obvious visually, too).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acura,2006,mdx,3.5l+v6,1432637,suspension,control+arm,10401
And FYI, you generally want to replace both LCAs at the same time, and you WILL need an alignment after (usually in the $40's on special or Groupon around here).

And also - whatever it was that you did when you bent / munged the old ball joint threads... don't do that again. ;-)
You need to look at OPs pictures, again. That isn't the LCA.

And where the heck are you getting a decent alignment for $40? They're 2-4x the cost, here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah I think I found the part I need

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...925173,cs:1&ved=0ahUKEwiog-u56_fdAhUM16wKHZpt

Except the one I'm getting is at AutoZone for 26$ tomorrow

I thought it was the Lca as well I don't know **** learning as I go def learned to be more careful when securing that damn separator tool, the drivers side sperated with no issues at all

Tomorrow morning I'm going to swoop that tie rod end and try to just replace it that lock nut from the videos I've seen seems stubborn but I'm sure I'll get it I bougyt good tools for this axle change and it's paying off just now I see how friggin useful those pressure drills are instead of ratchets

When removing the old axle though I hit the outer top part where that giant 36mm nut was w a hammer but i guess that rotor needs to be angled to get it out?
 

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The trick to loosening tie rod ends and ball joint taper connections is to hit the chunk of metal (in this case, the steering knuckle) that they go into, NOT the control arm or tie rod. That will "shock" the interface, and hopefully release the taper. OTOH, if you're replacing the control arm or tie rod end anyway, you can always use a pickle fork, which will damage the grease boot, but who cares?

I'm struggling to interpret some of TMR's comments (punctuation is your friend...) but in general you can break loose a tie rod end without any real hard-core tools - just a wrench to remove the nut and a hammer to hit the casting it's attached to.

I'm not the least bit sure what's being attempted with that "axle removal"... you do normally have to rotate the steering knuckle to get clearance to pull the splines out of the knuckle. You don't have to use a hammer, though I have CAREFULLY used a hammer to free up an axle when the splines are corroded, but ONLY lightly tapping the bolt after backing it out enough to provide the necessary movement / clearance.

Bottom line, if you're tearing up / bending stuff, you're using the wrong techniques.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
All finished, I had actually installed it properly, the new drivers side axle had a bad boot but I took it back and put the new new one in all is perfect.. now to get that oil plug bolt out.... Valvoline stripped the F out of it.... Any suggestions on cheap but non fm related Bluetooth lol
 

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