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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys so I've doing a lot of research and buying stuff for my X because of some of the issues I've been having. I made a post about the steering issues, and oil pan disaster and I really appreciate all the responses and advice I got.

This is my upcoming DIY project once I gather all the parts.

1. Replace timing belt, water pump, and the recommended pulleys.
2. Replace the serpentine belt
3. Replace the o rings on the oil pump
4. Replace oil pan (because of a metal piece inside). Already have the pan.
5. Replace rusted nuts and bolt in the exhaust area and install heat shield (all the heat shield rusted and fell off)

Parts already order and have

1. Oil pan
2. Serpentine belt
3. Nuts and bolts, and heat shield (will buy locally from auto part store)
4. OEM fluids (will be getting from dealer)

Parts I don't have

1. Timing belt kit (see picture for the kit I'm going to order)
2. Oil pump o rings (need recommendations)
3. Is there anything I'm missing?

I did a lot of digging on this forum and other places and everyone suggest to get the AISIN timing belt kit. I also got the Gates brand serpentine belt instead of the Bando brand. Is there anything missing on this kit that I should get? Is there anything else I should take care of while doing this job?


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If you are planning to keep your car for a long time (5 years or more) and want peace of mind, go with OEM, especially when it comes to really important stuff, like TB components (you don't want them to fail ever) - they are not significantly more expensive than aftermarket parts.
 

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I used to be a firm believer in OEM parts but the quality isn't consistent once the vehicle is out of production.

Honda OEM's are better than most. If you can afford them, they're usually the safest bet but not required with the brands you selected. I can't speak to aftermarket o-rings. I always get OEM if they're available or go to NAPA.

The parts you have listed look good for the job, but double check the FSM. I would change the oil filter and look for opportunities to change worn bolts and washers while it's apart.

Good luck and have fun with it!
 

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You probably need to change drive belt tensioner and idler pulley etc. They often fail. So you don't have to go there again for a long time. Gates are fine

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Your choice for the TB kit is a good one (Aisin), but I would not risk purchasing from Amazon or Ebay as there have been a rash of issues regarding knock-off parts. Amazon and Ebay simply do not have control over their sellers and their supply chain. You can buy the Aisin kit on RockAuto for a very similar price and be assured that they know who they are buying from.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your choice for the TB kit is a good one (Aisin), but I would not risk purchasing from Amazon or Ebay as there have been a rash of issues regarding knock-off parts. Amazon and Ebay simply do not have control over their sellers and their supply chain. You can buy the Aisin kit on RockAuto for a very similar price and be assured that they know who they are buying from.
I haven't thought about rockauto. I'll go ahead order it from rockauto.

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh, and as you are removing the oil pan and TB, don't lose this perfect opportunity to change the oil pump gasket, it's prone to leak with high miles and you can only replace it with TB and oil pan off.
Yeap it's on to do list. I wasn't going to do it at first because I didn't know how, but I found a video on youtube and have access to alldata and shop manual.

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Discussion Starter #10
You probably need to change drive belt tensioner and idler pulley etc. They often fail. So you don't have to go there again for a long time. Gates are fine

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Isn't that included on the TB kit?

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No, he is referencing the DRIVE BELT/SERPENTINE tensioner and idler pulley, not the timing belt. The drive belt is much more accessible vs. the timing belt, but if you have the funds for the extra parts it will be easier to do the work when you're in there for this job.

Agree on the oil pump gasket, they are very prone to leaking.

Not sure how many miles you have or when services were last performed, but consider doing your spark plugs (get the NGKs). If you're at 150k+ miles, also consider replacing your spark plug ignition coils as preventive maintenance.

Lastly, if you're tackling any other fluids, here is a list I posted on a separate thread that you may find useful:

Coolant: Acura/Honda Type 2 (it is blue and pre-mixed so you don't add water). Need 1.93 gallons for a change.
Rear Differential: Acura/Honda AWD Fluid (DPSF). Also get new drain and fill plug washers. Need 2.6 quarts for a change.
Front Differential (Transfer Case): SAE 90 or SAE 80W-90 viscosity hypoid gear oil, API service classified GL4 or GL5 only. Need .4 quarts for a change. Get new crush washers for both the drain and fill bolts.
Transmission: Acura/Honda Brand ATF-DW1. If doing a 3x3 drain and fill you will want 10-11 quarts. Also get a new crush washer for the transmission drain bolt.
Power Steering: Acura/Honda power steering fluid. If using the turkey baster method, you'll want 4 bottles to cycle through. Each bottle is 12oz.
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 full synthetic OW20 if you can find it, else Mobil 1 5W20. FYI you'll get 1,000 opinions on engine oil. Just get a good any major brand full synthetic and you'll be fine.
 

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Not to hijack the thread but I would like to know what brand of the ignition coil you guy recommended: OEM which I believe is Denso, Denso or NGK. I saw good deal on Spark plugs.com for NGK and Denso so I am thinking between those two. Any recommendations? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No, he is referencing the DRIVE BELT/SERPENTINE tensioner and idler pulley, not the timing belt. The drive belt is much more accessible vs. the timing belt, but if you have the funds for the extra parts it will be easier to do the work when you're in there for this job.

Agree on the oil pump gasket, they are very prone to leaking.

Not sure how many miles you have or when services were last performed, but consider doing your spark plugs (get the NGKs). If you're at 150k+ miles, also consider replacing your spark plug ignition coils as preventive maintenance.

Lastly, if you're tackling any other fluids, here is a list I posted on a separate thread that you may find useful:

Coolant: Acura/Honda Type 2 (it is blue and pre-mixed so you don't add water). Need 1.93 gallons for a change.
Rear Differential: Acura/Honda AWD Fluid (DPSF). Also get new drain and fill plug washers. Need 2.6 quarts for a change.
Front Differential (Transfer Case): SAE 90 or SAE 80W-90 viscosity hypoid gear oil, API service classified GL4 or GL5 only. Need .4 quarts for a change. Get new crush washers for both the drain and fill bolts.
Transmission: Acura/Honda Brand ATF-DW1. If doing a 3x3 drain and fill you will want 10-11 quarts. Also get a new crush washer for the transmission drain bolt.
Power Steering: Acura/Honda power steering fluid. If using the turkey baster method, you'll want 4 bottles to cycle through. Each bottle is 12oz.
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 full synthetic OW20 if you can find it, else Mobil 1 5W20. FYI you'll get 1,000 opinions on engine oil. Just get a good any major brand full synthetic and you'll be fine.
Oh boy...I did not know this. All the parts are well within my budget of $600 so I'll order the whole kit from rockauto. As far the oil pump gasket/seal is this the one (see picture) or do I need to use hondabond HT and make one?


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Discussion Starter #14
Oh boy...I did not know this. All the parts are well within my budget of $600 so I'll order the whole kit from rockauto. As far the oil pump gasket/seal is this the one (see picture) or do I need to use hondabond HT and make one?


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Seals and gasket. Looks like I need to do more research on the oil pump.

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Before you remove the oil pump gasket/seal, closely examine how far it is pushed in.
Is it exactly flush with the outer edge of the engine's edge or is it slightly pushed in past the out edge?
 

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I used the same AISIN kit (amazon) on my 07 MDX last year (110k, now just 120k) but used Bando serpentine (not as critical) and also ordered Gates T329 Timing Belt which is the OEM but ended up not using so now I need to sell it (used the one came with aisin kit instead). Tech friend I used for TB had real hard time setting it up right though, but maybe that was just him (needed 2 people)...
Make sure to replace the coolant (zerex has a blue Acura one) since you're gonna drain it all. He only drained the engine (when changing the water pump) and I had to do the radiator flush later!

One thing I ended up doing recently was replacing the radiator with newer Denso design (see DIY: Replace the Radiator and Flush A/F on 2G MDX and DIY: Install ATF Cooler 2G MDX) as preventive maintenance to prevent coolant+atf from mixing possibly destroying your transmission.
I also cleaned up the EGR valve and piping, but those where much worse and clogged up on my Prius with 150k than my MDX with 120k).
 
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