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Discussion Starter #1
after getting inspiration from lausy's upgrade post, I decided to follow his lead and upgrade my front speakers... i bought the same ones he did, the Pioneer TS-1665 model which is rated at 180W peak, 50W normal at 4ohms, sensitivity 92 dB... these are 6 1/2 3 way speakers.... i also got a good deal on dynamat(the original)... here are some pics of my install

these are the components and tools i used
 

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Discussion Starter #2
here is a picture of the speaker area after removing the stock speaker.... there are 3 nubs you will need to remove for new speakers... you can see two of them near the top screw hole and one near the lower left screw hole... i used the pliers to rip them off and the boxcutter to cut off any hanging pieces...
 

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ok i followed carnut's advice and sealed the speaker... instead of using weather stripping I used dynamat that I got for 10 dollars at best buy designed for front doors... as you can see in the pic I had to cut the edges tgo make it fit in the area behind the grill... i advise using a boxcutter to make the cuts since you can h9old up the dynamat to the area to see what exactly needs to get cut off... once the area is covered with dynamat, mark off where exsiting holes you will use to mount the speaker... i could only line up one hole up top....

you can also see that i cut a hole in t he middle of the dynamat... i drew an circle on the dynamat using the cutout in the first picture..... i recommend using highlighter to draw that circle
 

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here is finished product... i drilled one extra hole at the bottom and used the existing hole up top.... to connect the wires I bought a wiring harness for acura/honda from circuit city for 6 bucks... you can see it in the first pic.... i didnt have a drill to make the extra holes so i used a power screwdriver which did the trick.... i dont think you need anymorte than two screws to mount especially since the dynamat provides a good seal....

another tip, do all of this work with the windows rolled fully down... this way you see if anything touches the window... you dont wanna go thru this then find out everytime you roll down the window, you knock a connection loose.. my apologies on the blurry pic....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
if anyone is interested here is a pic of the stock speakers... they are alpines 30W, 4 ohms and only one way.... im keeping them since my car is a lease and i will be swapping these back in once i turn the car in.....

the results of the upgrade??? AWESOME!!! the highs are really crisp now and the bass no londer drowns out the highs and mids... i already put in a JL sub so i was fine in the bass dept but now everything seems to be in balance.... i will probably do the rears at some point but I understand its a bit more involved so ill wait till carnut posts his pics....

the speakers ran me 55 at millionbuy.com(they're 95 in Best buy), 6 bucks for the harness, 10 bucks for the dynamat.... not bad for the improvement in sound... much thanks to lausy and carnut for the advice......
 

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Good work JLive !!!


I know who to call know when I want to do mine !! :D I have to admit I was suprised to hear that the factory speakers were alpine and not bose .. must be part of that cost savings thing. Go Figure. So you can tell a big difference with only the fronts? Looks good !!



TECK!
 

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One question jliveMDX. Why the 3-way speakers instead of woofers?. If We already have the tweeters you don't think that when they are apart you get a more realistic sound?.
 

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BellTeck said:
Good work JLive !!!


I know who to call know when I want to do mine !! :D I have to admit I was suprised to hear that the factory speakers were alpine and not bose .. must be part of that cost savings thing. Go Figure. So you can tell a big difference with only the fronts? Looks good !!



TECK!
Teck,
jliveMDX probably doesn't have the Touring Package. BTW, Bose speakers upfront for Touring were just 25W, 4ohms.
 

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Macky said:


Teck,
jliveMDX probably doesn't have the Touring Package. BTW, Bose speakers upfront for Touring were just 25W, 4ohms.
Your right Macky,

He even says he has a GG Base ... My bad. :rolleyes:

I still think the Bose system is not as bad as some say it is .. I agree at times more power is needed but a lot of that is the recording on the CD or tape ( if still used ). I make almost all my CDs and before the burn I go through a couple of tests and volume is one of them, treble/bass is another, cutoffs/skips, etc etc.. All of these things can be repaired or adjusted that can make a BIG difference in the quality of your system.


Sorry Jlive to get on a rant on your speaker thread .. looks good
:D


TECK!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yeah teck i do have a GG Base... wasnt impressed enough with the Bose to warrant the extra 2600..... even if I had the Bose, I'd still recommend an upgrade, there's just no way stock speakers will ever give the same output as an aftermarket brand... BTW, I agree with you on the impact the CD quality has on the overall sound... SOme CD's I put in sound weak, but then some just kick a$$.... Since I burn everything(thank god for the internet) I try to tweak it to get the best sound.....


mjaime - I already have a subwoofer installed.... Look at my post from earlier with pics.... It's a JL Audio 10 inch 10W0 powered by a Kenwood amp in an enclosure.. That provides the punch I need... the crisp highs I now get is worth the upgrade alone, plus I can get some more bass response from the front speakers...
 

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Great Pics! How do you get the grill off?

Great pictures, thank you!
1) What is the process of getting the grill/cover off to access the speakers.
2) Does the grill snap/pop/screw back on fairly easily?

Thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Digital, it's very easy to take the grill off.... If you look in the upper left corner of the driver side grill(under the armrest) and look around the edge you can see a little indentation where you can place a flat head screwdriver to pry up the grill... The grill is flimsy so you wanna be careful not to break it.... It snaps back in place real easy too.....


In the pic above it would be on the right side, under the armrest where the white hole is.....
 

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Jlive,
Excellent documentation. I'm glad you're happy with your upgrade. Sorry I couldn't post any pictures for the rears but it's not much harder than the fronts. You just have to use the box cutter to cut the rain shield and bent back the little nubs and you're done. It makes a bigger difference when you change the rears because you get a cleaner sound with amazing highs and better lows.
 

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Macky said:


Teck,
jliveMDX probably doesn't have the Touring Package. BTW, Bose speakers upfront for Touring were just 25W, 4ohms.
I just upgraded my front speakers with the same Pioneers and dynamat. I have the Bose system. My speakers look exactly the same as the Alpines except they have an adhesive label on them that says Bose and the part number.

Thanks much for all the advice and excellent documentation in this forum! I'm going to replace the rears next, and someday the amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hey omaha, did you use the dynamat like I did or did u put it behind the speaker opening???? the way u described it in the other thread kinda confused me.... or post ur pics if u dont mind....
 

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jliveMDX said:
hey omaha, did you use the dynamat like I did or did u put it behind the speaker opening???? the way u described it in the other thread kinda confused me.... or post ur pics if u dont mind....
Jlive, I got the Dynamat with the foil on one side. I didn't realize they had two kinds. Apparently the type with foil is for higher temp locations.

Anyway, for the front speakers, I installed it just like you did, except that I didn't cut out the middle. I just cut an "X" in the middle part and pushed it in so that it is stuck inside the cone part of the door panel. I didn't put any Dynamat behind the speaker on the outer door panel. I didn't think about that, but that might have its own advantages as well.

For the sub, I just cut a big rectangular sheet (approx 12' x 14") and stuck it to the inside of the outer vehicle panel behind the sub. I didn't use any around the sub frame.

I'm very impressed with the increase in sound quality! Pioneer makes some good automotive and marine speakers. I put some of Pioneer's best marine speakers in the boat last spring and the difference is amazing. :D

I can now hear the inadequacies of the rear door speakers, so they have to come out also. I'm not sure whether to go with another set of TS-1665's or go with the TS-G1645 two-ways for the rear. :rolleyes:

Regards,
John in Omaha
 

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Omaha

I have also replaced the OEM speakers with the same Pioneers (both front and rear). Now you get me interest in adding the Dynamat. I beleive you used the XTREME version. How many sheets of Dynamat (or size) do think I need for the front , rear, and subwoofer areas. Also, I think you have replaced the OEM sub. Can you tell me the model number? Many thanks!!:)
 

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Dynamat & Speaker Replacements

lungc_98 said:
Omaha

I have also replaced the OEM speakers with the same Pioneers (both front and rear). Now you get me interest in adding the Dynamat. I beleive you used the XTREME version. How many sheets of Dynamat (or size) do think I need for the front , rear, and subwoofer areas. Also, I think you have replaced the OEM sub. Can you tell me the model number? Many thanks!!:)
This was my first experience with Dynamat. I hadn't heard of it until I read about it in this forum. I checked the box and it was the extreme version. A one sheet roll that was 4 sq. ft. I have plenty left over to do the rear speakers. I can visualize how it might help dampen and reflect sound from an area such as the plastic door mounts, or the vibration of the sheet metal behind the sub. I can't speak with authority on its acoustic benefits. Perhaps someone else can.

On the sub, I was looking for a relatively low cost, high efficiency sub, due to the 2-ohm low powered Bose amp. I got the Pioneer TS-W28C. It is a long stroke design and also designed for small enclosures. I might replace the sub if/when I replace the amp. Any suggestions on amp replacement are welcome!

The Bose sub is light weight and 2-1/2" deep. I would guess it weighs quite a bit less than one of the 6-1/2" Pioneer TS-1665's. I was always under the impression that sound required air movement and loud, tight sound requires a lot of air movement pushed quickly by the speaker. The Bose sub's design seems to defy that logic.

I've attached pics of the removed Bose sub and of the Pioneer installed in the MDX.
 

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Deepest Sub?

Omaha

What is the deepest sub that will fit? I just ordered a Kicker, but it is 5" deep.
 

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Sorry about the late reply. I didn't measure distance, but I think you'll be OK. I would need to check the depth of the one I put in to completely verify, and will do that this weekend if you need.

Regards,
John
 
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