Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

81 - 100 of 103 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
The 2010-2013 piston rings are not multiple staggered, just one thick ring?

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
Correct example setup I was shown had a group of rings that were all individual installed following a purposely staggered approach as to be sure they did not align creating a gap. Acura's main oil ring is two rings combined that when installed can't be staggered because they are one thick oil ring. I am assuming this was done purposely for some reason I am unaware of... Maybe due to updated cylinder surface coating change that requires more oil I don't know? Maybe Acura is secretly buying stock in oil companies don't know? Whatever the reason it was poor thought out failure and that happens however the sad deal is the the cost of said failure was pushed down directly to the poor suckers that bought these cars. Took a Judge and peeps with attorneys to establish any accountability to the issue. Probs not a good business model if you want return customers....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,963 Posts
I see. Thanks.

we have a 2010 Odyssey LX.... No VCM...Upgraded with 18"MDX wheels & thinking about upgrading to MDX front & rear calipers pads & rotors...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #84
The 2010-2013 piston rings are not multiple staggered, just one thick ring?

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
Ring and a spring
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
Oil rings job, is to return oil, back to oil pan. When they become slugged/clogged it cant find its way back to the pan and gets burned. People have to understand, block got nothing to do with this oil consumption. Faulty piston and oil ring design is to blame. It can be cleaned with powerful automotive chemicals or with dmso, but if damage was done to the block nothing can help.No ring replacement will fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
So I've got the B1 coming up, I was going to ask the dealer to run some BG109 in there and then do the oil change. Do you think that will help with the oil consumption?
(Now burning 1qt per 800-900 miles, 65k miles, no other issues.).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
So I've got the B1 coming up, I was going to ask the dealer to run some BG109 in there and then do the oil change. Do you think that will help with the oil consumption?
(Now burning 1qt per 800-900 miles, 65k miles, no other issues.).
I really doubt, that 1 can will give any good results. But it will help maintain its original state for sure.
You can try: Do 2 cans at once for one hour. 40min 1200-1500 rpm. remaining 20min at idle. And I would suggest adding it on fresh oil, and then replacing with fresh one after flush,
When bg109 is added, oil temp should be at operating temp.

Few months ago I did similar flush to a TL with 50k miles. His burn rate was about 1,5-2 quarts per 5k mile change interval. He done close to 3500 miles and haven't burnt any oil.
This is the procedure:

You will need:
(2) oil filters.
(3) 5-Quart jugs of oil ((2) 5-Quart of cheap 5w-30 and 1 jug of your regular, favorite oil).
(3) cans of BG 109 EPR.
(1) can of BG 115 MOA .
(1) can of Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush.

Procedure:

1.Start with the old oil in engine, bring to operating temperature. Add Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush and let it idle for 30min.
2.Drain the oil, replace filter, fill 4.5 quarts of fresh 5w-30 oil.
3. Bring engine to operating temperature.
4. Add 1.5 can of BG 109 EPR, idle engine for 20min, after that set engine rpms at 1200-1500. Let it run additional 40min.
5. Drain oil.
6. Fill 4.5 quarts of 5w-30 fresh oil.
7. Bring engine to operating temperature.
8. Add 1.5 can of BG 109 EPR, idle engige for 20min, after that set engine rpms at 1200-1500. Let it run additional 20min.
And 20min variable rpms, 1000-2000rpms.
9. Drain the oil, replace filter, fill 4.5 quarts of fresh oil (regular oil), add a can of BG MOA 115.
10. Congratulations, you are done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
It is known by now, that there are couple manufactures dealing with the same issues. Same oil consumption, same cause.
Accidentally, I have found a clip on youtube. He is talking about most likely Toyota Camry engine.. But it has exactly same issue as 10-13 MDX.
Anyways, it is a good educational video for peeps out there, who dont understand, why theirs MDX's consume oil.
Oil rings looks almost exactly the same and piston have similar design (like most pistons hahah) minus the teflon coating on the sides...
Video:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I really doubt, that 1 can will give any good results. But it will help maintain its original state for sure.
You can try: Do 2 cans at once for one hour. 40min 1200-1500 rpm. remaining 20min at idle. And I would suggest adding it on fresh oil, and then replacing with fresh one after flush,
When bg109 is added, oil temp should be at operating temp.

Few months ago I did similar flush to a TL with 50k miles. His burn rate was about 1,5-2 quarts per 5k mile change interval. He done close to 3500 miles and haven't burnt any oil.
This is the procedure:

You will need:
(2) oil filters.
(3) 5-Quart jugs of oil ((2) 5-Quart of cheap 5w-30 and 1 jug of your regular, favorite oil).
(3) cans of BG 109 EPR.
(1) can of BG 115 MOA .
(1) can of Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush.

Procedure:

1.Start with the old oil in engine, bring to operating temperature. Add Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush and let it idle for 30min.
2.Drain the oil, replace filter, fill 4.5 quarts of fresh 5w-30 oil.
3. Bring engine to operating temperature.
4. Add 1.5 can of BG 109 EPR, idle engine for 20min, after that set engine rpms at 1200-1500. Let it run additional 40min.
5. Drain oil.
6. Fill 4.5 quarts of 5w-30 fresh oil.
7. Bring engine to operating temperature.
8. Add 1.5 can of BG 109 EPR, idle engige for 20min, after that set engine rpms at 1200-1500. Let it run additional 20min.
And 20min variable rpms, 1000-2000rpms.
9. Drain the oil, replace filter, fill 4.5 quarts of fresh oil (regular oil), add a can of BG MOA 115.
10. Congratulations, you are done.
I want to say first and foremost thank you sir for sharing this procedure! I am shocked at how hardcore and expensive this process will be however for those of us that have these cars we have little to no choice. My wife's TL has 52k and I will be following this procedure. I would assume after this procedure then you just flush every 3 rd oil change? Important to note if this is not aggressively addressed then you will scar cylinder thus causing damage that can't be fixed. I just did on my MDX. Unbelievable!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
I want to say first and foremost thank you sir for sharing this procedure! I am shocked at how hardcore and expensive this process will be however for those of us that have these cars we have little to no choice. My wife's TL has 52k and I will be following this procedure. I would assume after this procedure then you just flush every 3 rd oil change? Important to note if this is not aggressively addressed then you will scar cylinder thus causing damage that can't be fixed. I just did on my MDX. Unbelievable!
This will not work for everyone, if car was burning oil for 5 years and you are well over 100k.... great chances are that this will not help.
But, if the mileage is low and the engine was maintained with normal oil change intervals, this should work really good.
Keep in mind this is light/medium duty flush, there are more aggressive ways to flush engine. There is a guy on Acurazine forum... he flushed his car with DMSO. This will clean everything, it just destroys sludge and carbon and it will not damage seals (but it will harm some types plastics and strip paint).
Other good alternative is BG103 dynamic engine cleaner.... it packs more punch to sludge compared to BG109.

I will be flushing every oil change, by adding one can of 109 before oil change and run it for an hour. (you can get them cheaper on ebay, I bought 10-pack for $110)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
This will not work for everyone, if car was burning oil for 5 years and you are well over 100k.... great chances are that this will not help.
But, if the mileage is low and the engine was maintained with normal oil change intervals, this should work really good.
Keep in mind this is light/medium duty flush, there are more aggressive ways to flush engine. There is a guy on Acurazine forum... he flushed his car with DMSO. This will clean everything, it just destroys sludge and carbon and it will not damage seals (but it will harm some types plastics and strip paint).
Other good alternative is BG103 dynamic engine cleaner.... it packs more punch to sludge compared to BG109.

I will be flushing every oil change, by adding one can of 109 before oil change and run it for an hour. (you can get them cheaper on ebay, I bought 10-pack for $110)
Totally understand. Wife's car not exhibiting excessive oil burn (yet) and my MDX now has used 21k motor in it just installed last week. I run the recommended synthetic oil in cars and planned on changing oil every 3k is that overly aggressive or can I change at 5k? I bought BG109 4 can deal on Amazon for 80 bucks last week. "K CHING" If I google "BG103 dynamic engine cleaner" I am getting no hits is this a typo? Run the car for an hour before oil change holy crap this is a logistical nightmare unless I want to change it myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
Totally understand. Wife's car not exhibiting excessive oil burn (yet) and my MDX now has used 21k motor in it just installed last week. I run the recommended synthetic oil in cars and planned on changing oil every 3k is that overly aggressive or can I change at 5k? I bought BG109 4 can deal on Amazon for 80 bucks last week. "K CHING" If I google "BG103 dynamic engine cleaner" I am getting no hits is this a typo? Run the car for an hour before oil change holy crap this is a logistical nightmare unless I want to change it myself.
I change my oil myself. Going to dealer is a waist a time. I can change oil in 20 min and dealing with dealer, wait time, travel time..... It actually much more convenient to do oil changes at home.

Cheaper option on Ebay:

BG103:

114540
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I change my oil myself. Going to dealer is a waist a time. I can change oil in 20 min and dealing with dealer, wait time, travel time..... It actually much more convenient to do oil changes at home.

Cheaper option on Ebay:

BG103:

View attachment 114540
Have not done my oil changes since I was a kid however given this situation I now have no choice but to go out and buy a nice Jack and some stands and begin doing it myself. This level of fluid change/babysitting process will require it.

Engine flush is an interesting topic as depending on what shop you talk to some believe there is a chance of this causing great harm to engine. Your old school OEM certified coolaid drinkers follow the book to the letter and most manuals say DO NOT DO THIS. Then the very next sentence they say you never need to change spark plugs and your synthetic oil will now last over twice as long. (7k) :rolleyes: If you call Acura they still telling customers to get Oil changed on these motors every 7k. Love the Acura but really pissed they require this level of devotion if your end goal is to drive a car a couple years without new car payments. (wait maybe that is their goal in the first place)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Following along. Definitely curious to see your results. I burn approx 1qt every 1,000 miles on a 2011 with similar mileage. I’ve used a full bottle of Lube Controls FP60 per instructions through the gas tank with no discernible results. I’ve added 1oz of their LC20 with each of the last two quarts of oil I’ve added to the engine. Again, no discernible results. When the next oil change is due I’ll add the full recommended dose of LC20 to see if that does anything.
From what I’ve seen so far, it seems the upper portion of the motor may not necessarily be the issue since the FP60 had essentially zero effect. If I notice any improvement using the LC20 in the oil then that would indicate to me that this carboning issue is coming from below and a “traditional” fuel additive or top end Seafoaming-type of treatment may not be the solution.
We had a similar problem and dealer suggested oil consumption test -- it confirmed the excess use. I had extended warranty still in force and contacted Acura directly -- they ended up replacing the bottom of the engine. Turns out that I was just ahead of a recall on certain engine numbers, so I would press your dealer or Acura for more info. This is not a unique problem. BTW, engine ping was evident in our engine as well, and new engine has eliminated it. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
So I've got the B1 coming up, I was going to ask the dealer to run some BG109 in there and then do the oil change. Do you think that will help with the oil consumption?
(Now burning 1qt per 800-900 miles, 65k miles, no other issues.).
my mechanic recommended BG EPR when i started burning oil. i was burning about 1qt every 1500 miles at that time.
after the EPR, i'm now losing about 1/2 qt every 5k miles. i started burning oil around 80k miles. we put the BG EPR in around 107k miles and i am now at 127k miles.
the dealer ran their oil consumption tests between 90k-100k and i was not burning the required 1qt every 1k miles so they told me to go fish.

i change my oil every 5k with synthetic and i also use bg moa every change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
my mechanic recommended BG EPR when i started burning oil. i was burning about 1qt every 1500 miles at that time.
after the EPR, i'm now losing about 1/2 qt every 5k miles. i started burning oil around 80k miles. we put the BG EPR in around 107k miles and i am now at 127k miles.
the dealer ran their oil consumption tests between 90k-100k and i was not burning the required 1qt every 1k miles so they told me to go fish.

i change my oil every 5k with synthetic and i also use bg moa every change.
Yes it appears the use of this product or this "type" of product should have been sent out by Acura as a service bulletin a long time back. If left unchecked besides burning oil like it is free I believe rings eventually become overloaded with Carbon and eventually damage cylinder wall. These products are expensive along with synthetic oil and high octane fuel required for this engine however there is no other choice. The problem is without an OEM recommendation some/most mechanics/shops that guzzle the factory cool-aid will argue with you about performing a motor flush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Alright. Wife's mdx has 85k on it and it's burning a little over a qt every 5k. What were your results after everything? What would you recommend for my car?
Thank you!!.
Very informative!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
Alright. Wife's mdx has 85k on it and it's burning a little over a qt every 5k. What were your results after everything? What would you recommend for my car?
Thank you!!.
Very informative!
My results.. no measurable oil loss in last 2500 miles..... If you are burning only QT in 5k.. Try BG EPR procedure listed couple postings before. Or if you want to try more nuclear stuff, BG 103 works even better... But i think you should be good with EPR.
 
81 - 100 of 103 Posts
Top