Since now, it is clear, that design of rings and "extended" oil change interval is the cause of oil consumption. I have decided to attack this problem on my own.
I have 2012 with 90K MILES.
I have "slight" oil consumption (Up to 1qt during 5k oil change intervals) .
I have already done engine flush with Liqui Moly on old engine oil and 2 flushes with fresh oil and BG 109. Added 44k in to the tank on the last to fill ups.
On my next oil change, will be adding more BG109, 44k. Addition to that, will do Intake and combustion chamber, valve, cleaning, piston soaking and maybe injector cleaning.
If this procedure will not help, I have some other ideas how to attack this problem.
Meanwhile attached few picks of 2 pistons after 1.5 tank of 44k. Carbon is melting ....
Following along. Definitely curious to see your results. I burn approx 1qt every 1,000 miles on a 2011 with similar mileage. I’ve used a full bottle of Lube Controls FP60 per instructions through the gas tank with no discernible results. I’ve added 1oz of their LC20 with each of the last two quarts of oil I’ve added to the engine. Again, no discernible results. When the next oil change is due I’ll add the full recommended dose of LC20 to see if that does anything.
From what I’ve seen so far, it seems the upper portion of the motor may not necessarily be the issue since the FP60 had essentially zero effect. If I notice any improvement using the LC20 in the oil then that would indicate to me that this carboning issue is coming from below and a “traditional” fuel additive or top end Seafoaming-type of treatment may not be the solution.
Since now, it is clear, that design of rings and "extended" oil change interval is the cause of oil consumption. I have decided to attack this problem on my own.
I have 2012 with 90K MILES.
I have "slight" oil consumption (Up to 1qt during 5k oil change intervals) .
I have already done engine flush with Liqui Moly on old engine oil and 2 flushes with fresh oil and BG 109. Added 44k in to the tank on the last to fill ups.
On my next oil change, will be adding more BG109, 44k. Addition to that, will do Intake and combustion chamber, valve, cleaning, piston soaking and maybe injector cleaning.
If this procedure will not help, I have some other ideas how to attack this problem.
Meanwhile attached few picks of 2 pistons after 1.5 tank of 44k. Carbon is melting ....
View attachment 113975View attachment 113976View attachment 113974
have you thought about removing the spark plugs and pouring some cleaner directly onto the tops of the pistons to let them soak overnight? A few folks on facebook have done this with 3.7L TL engines with carbon buildup and oil consumption.
have you thought about removing the spark plugs and pouring some cleaner directly onto the tops of the pistons to let them soak overnight? A few folks on facebook have done this with 3.7L TL engines with carbon buildup and oil consumption.
If you use 1/4 Redline SI-1 for every fillup, it does reduce oil consumption and keeps the burning rate linear. It is also nearly eliminated the soot in the tailpipe. All good stuffs, BUT it seems to varnish the upper engine reddish color. I think it may be mixing with oil.
If you use 1/4 Redline SI-1 for every fillup, it does reduce oil consumption and keeps the burning rate linear. It is also nearly eliminated the soot in the tailpipe. All good stuffs, BUT it seems to varnish the upper engine reddish color. I think it may be mixing with oil.
Redline SI-1 is a good product, but I am more BG guy. Redline SI-1 is more injector cleaner compared to BG carbon fighter.
You have to understand 44k is just icing on the cake. Want to "soften" carbon before major service.
My goal is to remove oil consumption completely, not to reduce it. Since I am not burning that much.
When I tried Redline SI-1, the goal was to eliminate the oil consumption because it has high dose of Polyetheramine (P.E.A). PEA has proven the ability to withstand high heat in the combustion chamber and dissolve carbon. The oil consumption was getting better, but I stop using at every fillup due to that reddish varnish.
BG 44K is fuel system cleaner as well, not sure what formula they used.
Don't waste money on BG 109 EPR. I have tried it x2 times with BG MOA. It does not get any improvement on oil consumption as it advertised that it would do. At least for MDX problem.
When I tried Redline SI-1, the goal was to eliminate the oil consumption because it has high dose of Polyetheramine (P.E.A). PEA has proven the ability to withstand high heat in the combustion chamber and dissolve carbon. The oil consumption was getting better, but I stop using at every fillup due to that reddish varnish.
BG 44K is fuel system cleaner as well, not sure what formula they used.
Don't waste money on BG 109 EPR. I have tried it x2 times with BG MOA. It does not get any improvement on oil consumption as it advertised that it would do. At least for MDX problem.
44k is PEA too. BG 109 is not a waist of money, it is more preventive maintenance product. It helps to keep engine clean, especially small opening like piston oil rings.
BG MOA is a great product too. Don't stop using it. If I would know that MDX will have this kind problem.... I would be using since bought it new.. And I am pretty sure, it would not have this problem.
The main benefit of MOA is to stop sludge and varnish forming inside engine. It neutralizes acids and have great cleaning properties.
44k is PEA too. BG 109 is not a waist of money, it is more preventive maintenance product. It helps to keep engine clean, especially small opening like piston oil rings.
BG MOA is a great product too. Don't stop using it. If I would know that MDX will have this kind problem.... I would be using since bought it new.. And I am pretty sure, it would not have this problem.
The main benefit of MOA is to stop sludge and varnish forming inside engine. It neutralizes acids and have great cleaning properties.
MOA has very high dose of calcium for cleaning power, but too much of it is not good either. There is no need to use MOA if you use Mobil 1, Pennzoil, and etc.
When you drain the oil after running BG 109, inspect the oil. It seems to have glitters in it, it is probably metal wear fragments. This and the fact that it did not do anything to reduce oil consumption, I stop using it...it has proven enough for me.
BG 109 activates on heat. The instruction suggests you pour it in, run the engine for 15 minutes at 1200 RPM. I tried exactly that on the first try. Since BG 109 activates on heat, for the 2nd try, I warmed up the engine to operate temperature, shut the engine, poured BG 109, and ran the engine for 15 minutes at 1200 RPM.
You can keep trying BG 109 or you can try...
If you want to use engine flush for maintenance purpose, try Lubegard Engine Flush. It is much safer.
If you want to try to unstuck piston rings, try this new product Throttle Muscle Engine Scrub Engine Flush. Some guy said it unstucked his Prius that burns 1qt/1000 miles.
MOA has very high dose of calcium for cleaning power, but too much of it is not good either. There is no need to use MOA if you use Mobil 1, Pennzoil, and etc.
When you drain the oil after running BG 109, inspect the oil. It seems to have glitters in it, it is probably metal wear fragments. This and the fact that it did not do anything to reduce oil consumption, I stop using it...it has proven enough for me.
BG 109 activates on heat. The instruction suggests you pour it in, run the engine for 15 minutes at 1200 RPM. I tried exactly that on the first try. Since BG 109 activates on heat, for the 2nd try, I warmed up the engine to operate temperature, shut the engine, poured BG 109, and ran the engine for 15 minutes at 1200 RPM.
You can keep trying BG 109 or you can try...
If you want to use engine flush for maintenance purpose, try Lubegard Engine Flush. It is much safer.
If you want to try to unstuck piston rings, try this new product Throttle Muscle Engine Scrub Engine Flush. Some guy said it unstucked his Prius that burns 1qt/1000 miles.
You should sell or trade in your car ASAP!!! I have never seen metal in my filter or in oil.This is very bad sign....
109 only works on hot engine. Since you said, that you have metal fragments in your oil, I would not waist money on engine flushing...
Back to 109. I am running only on new oil and minimum of one hour at about 1200-1500 rpms WITH NEW OIL FILTER. (filter was opened for inspection with pipe cutter)
I really don't want to get deeper in to using Mobil and Pennzoil ( This is what I am using) It is true to some degree what you stated. That is, if oil is changed at 3k miles in J37 engine.
This is first step of few steps I am planing to take, so stay tuned.
The glitters only occurred when using the BG 109 flush. Any other time there is no glitters.
I am not trading it, the car runs well. A little oil consumption here and there won't irritate me; inconvenience yes. I combat the oil burning rate as oil age, I change oil between 3000-4000 miles. Plus I got approved for pistons replacement (May 2020).
There is no way bg 109 caused any glitters to show up in the oil. Unless it was washed out with the sludge. I am afraid that you have engine damage. But I really hope that I am wrong.
Thats a good thing that you have been approved. Hopefully it will solve your consumption problem. Fingers crossed. Please report back.
Any chance to get pictures of your cylinder walls? Or maybe you can ask technicians to take pictures during "ring" service?
Did you ever send oil for testing?
The glitters only occurred when using the BG 109 flush. Any other time there is no glitters.
I am not trading it, the car runs well. A little oil consumption here and there won't irritate me; inconvenience yes. I combat the oil burning rate as oil age, I change oil between 3000-4000 miles. Plus I got approved for pistons replacement (May 2020).
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Hello: First time posting and I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
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