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You didn’t answer my other question.


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I never soaked it longer than 12h, so I dont know if there will be any benefit of soaking it 24h...
 

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Discussion Starter #142
most oil sold over the counter is the same, the additive packs and durability are what differ. If you use M1 EP 15K miles, you'd certainly get 15K miles on a brand new honda/acura. With something with 100K+ miles and the way the J37 trashes oil, you'd be lucky with 10K on the EP. The oil burns off because it's breaking down. Folks with J37 using conventional or semi-syn get a lot of burning due to high side loads, shearing and the way the piston rings are. A higher quality oil that's FULL SYNTHETIC such as amsoil or Penz Ultra Plat will resist that greatly. I bought Penz Ultra Plat from walmart.com, each bottle was $22 for a 5 quart and got 4 of them. On my 4G TL after 9K miles I've burned 1/8th quart. On my 07 MDX 6K on ultra plat and I've burned about 1/3rd quart.

If you want to make oil filter cleaner during change, use a sandwich ziplock on the filter after you crack it loose, will catch oil and prevent fingers from getting greasy. Seal up ziploc and recycle at autozone.

Make sure you are using a good oil filter! Fram XG7317 from walmart about $9 works very well vs the same price for honda filter at dealer locally or M1 filter for $15. Filters down to 20 microns with 99.9% efficiency since it's synthetic media and constructed much better than regular fram filters.
This one?



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yep, those filters are very good, multiple folks on bob the oil guy and youtube have cut them open with impressive innards. Make sure you prefill the filter with a bit of oil to avoid dry startup after oil change! Also good oil like Pennzoil Ultra Plat 5W-30:

 

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Discussion Starter #144
yep, those filters are very good, multiple folks on bob the oil guy and youtube have cut them open with impressive innards. Make sure you prefill the filter with a bit of oil to avoid dry startup after oil change! Also good oil like Pennzoil Ultra Plat 5W-30:

That penz ultra is very expensive $37


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I dont know if he is brave or stupid, cranking engine with liquid in cylinders and plugs installed.
 

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It will clean, did you see picture I have added couple posts ago? it will clean spark plugs too, carbon will become brittle and will come of easy...
 

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Dz, I don’t expect the mopar CCC to clean the top chamber.
Would you agree? Because the ccc can’t reach to the top.


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Dude, take a step back and relax! You are way overthinking this. Imagine a dirty cereal bowl with stuck on cereal. You soak it in water to loosen the crud and rinse the bowl out, then use soap and sponge to clean, right?

Same theory; remove plugs and pour in cleaner and let it soften up the carbon. If you pour to the top of the spark plug well (not the tube, but where the plug sits in cylinder) depending on how the engine is (which piston is at top dead center) you'll be able to clean a few of the valves and upper head. After a few hours suck it back out and repeat. You can crank the engine slightly (1/2 crank with wrench) to move the pistons to expose the other valves as others will be at top dead center... or install old plugs and burn/eject the carbon out. I'm not sure if oil has to be changed afterwards but I would certainly do so to avoid any sort of oil contamination after 30-40 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
It will clean, did you see picture I have added couple posts ago? it will clean spark plugs too, carbon will become brittle and will come of easy...
I am curious. How does it get cleaned if it doesn’t get soaked or contacted with mopar ccc? Does the vapor from the cccc do the cleaning?


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Yes, thats why i told you to install spark plugs back during soaking process.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Dude, take a step back and relax! You are way overthinking this. Imagine a dirty cereal bowl with stuck on cereal. You soak it in water to loosen the crud and rinse the bowl out, then use soap and sponge to clean, right?

Same theory; remove plugs and pour in cleaner and let it soften up the carbon. If you pour to the top of the spark plug well (not the tube, but where the plug sits in cylinder) depending on how the engine is (which piston is at top dead center) you'll be able to clean a few of the valves and upper head. After a few hours suck it back out and repeat. You can crank the engine slightly (1/2 crank with wrench) to move the pistons to expose the other valves as others will be at top dead center... or install old plugs and burn/eject the carbon out. I'm not sure if oil has to be changed afterwards but I would certainly do so to avoid any sort of oil contamination after 30-40 miles.
Ok. The method you describe here is if you want to clean the upper head (valves) and top piston at the same time by moving up each piston to TDC and pour the ccc until it fills up at the spark plug hole and let it soaks for one hour or so. And repeat for the rest of the cylinders. It going to take a while.

The other method is just for soaking all the top pistons overnight.

Look like I have to do this in two stages.


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Ok. The method you describe here is if you want to clean the upper head (valves) and top piston at the same time by moving up each piston to TDC and pour the ccc until it fills up at the spark plug hole and let it soaks for one hour or so. And repeat for the rest of the cylinders. It going to take a while.

The other method is just for soaking all the top pistons overnight.

Look like I have to do this in two stages.


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Yes but there will be 0 benefit on the MDX to clean upper area as our cars are Port Injected and intake valves get pretty clean! Just do the soak and you'll notice a huge difference once the rings and pistons are cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #156 (Edited)
It looks like the pistons are sitting at an 30-35 degrees angle and the bore diameter is 90 mm. I would probably need to pour 1/2-3/4 of a can to completely submerge the top piston.

I need to figure out how to get all this pistons somewhere at reasonable position so it will have enough space (volume) to pour the ccc to completely submerge the the top piston. Probably just a stick method and crank the pulley to see all the pistons position.


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Yes but there will be 0 benefit on the MDX to clean upper area as our cars are Port Injected and intake valves get pretty clean! Just do the soak and you'll notice a huge difference once the rings and pistons are cleaned.
He is talking about face of valves not the back. There are few reports floating in this forum about burned valves...Carbon on fronts = to hot spots.
 

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It looks like the pistons are sitting at an 30-35 degrees angle and the bore diameter is 90 mm. I would probably need to pour 1/2-3/4 of a can to completely submerge the top piston.

I need to figure out how to get all this pistons somewhere at reasonable position so it will have enough space (volume) to pour the ccc to completely submerge the the top piston. Probably just a stick method and crank the pulley to see all the pistons position.


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Just soak it man, dont try to invent bicycle. 4 cans will be enough. Like i said before, try to use common sense. Pistons sitting at the top fill completely, for pistons sitting low try dispense equal amount in between cylinders. Moving crankshaft is beneficial for compression rings, but dont mess with it.
flush it with bg 109 and will be good for now. Compression will be more equal in between cylinders, engine will have that "new" feel again. Dont do 15k on OC and there will be no need to change camshafts again LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Just soak it man, dont try to invent bicycle. 4 cans will be enough. Like i said before, try to use common sense. Pistons sitting at the top fill completely, for pistons sitting low try dispense equal amount in between cylinders. Moving crankshaft is beneficial for compression rings, but dont mess with it.
flush it with bg 109 and will be good for now. Compression will be more equal in between cylinders, engine will have that "new" feel again. Dont do 15k on OC and there will be no need to change camshafts again LOL
I want to make sure I don’t do a half-A job and shows no result in the end. Thanks man!


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Discussion Starter #160 (Edited)
I think I know exactly what is going on with my engine pings. I have engine ping or pre-ignition that most people don’t have. The main reason is that I don’t allow the car to sit long enough between starts and stops (or driving) for the oil in cylinder to drain or flow back to the oil pan. If I let the car parked or rested for over 45-60 minutes between starts and stops (driving) I don’t have pre-ignition problem.

So the excessive oil in the cylinder changes the compression ratio and thus causing pre-ignition until the knock sensor detects it and the ECU adjusted the compression ratio accordingly. I am going to hook up OBDII to monitor real-time compression ratio. We know the engine compression ratio is ideally 17:1.


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