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So my 2011 MDX has every warning light on and is cycling thru Check trailer stability assist, Emissions system check, SH-AWD, and VSA check warning lights. Seems to be running fine. Battery is at 12.3 volts when off and 14.3 while running. Also went to Autozone and had them plug in a code scanner and got 77-1, 41-01, PO306. However they couldn’t tell me what they meant except PO306, cylinder #6 misfire. Wondering if anyone knows what’s going on. Thanks in advance, Mark.
 

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So my 2011 MDX has every warning light on and is cycling thru Check trailer stability assist, Emissions system check, SH-AWD, and VSA check warning lights. Seems to be running fine. Battery is at 12.3 volts when off and 14.3 while running. Also went to Autozone and had them plug in a code scanner and got 77-1, 41-01, PO306. However they couldnâ€t tell me what they meant except PO306, cylinder #6 misfire. Wondering if anyone knows whatâ€s going on. Thanks in advance, Mark.


Disconnect the battery and lets see what happens


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Thanks for the reply. Forgot to say I did that also. I disconnected negative side and tightened up both sides after 20 mins. All lights were gone for about 30 miles, then everything came back.
 

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Try a new battery. Or at least charge your current one fully and take it to Autozone for a test.


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Try a new battery. Or at least charge your current one fully and take it to Autozone for a test.


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I had experienced every similar problem 2-3 times within the last year while cruising on the freeway and all the sudden the engine started to hesitate and all sorts of light came on. I stopped the car and turn off the engine and started again and it ran fine. To clear the misfire codes I disconnected the battery.

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It is starting and running normal. My wife’s determined to take it to the dealership. I know a battery costs a s*** load there.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Forgot to say I did that also. I disconnected negative side and tightened up both sides after 20 mins. All lights were gone for about 30 miles, then everything came back.


Change the spark plugs. Cheap way to diagnose the problem.


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All Acura really hate low and intermittent power. You will get a lot of red/yellow lights and warning codes with power issues. The battery would be the easiest to double-check, it could also be the alternator putting out low voltage, grounding issue, or an issue with the terminals to the battery.

I've only got around 120,000-130,000 miles from my TSX and RDX alternators (right at 120K in my MDX). Both times, I was getting X-Mas tree of warning lights and vehicles eventually dying on the road because the alternator was slowing failing. It wasn't putting out enough voltage to charge the battery and power the vehicles at the same time. It would steal power from the battery until the voltage dropped too low and X-Mas light warning would start. Battery charger would give me enough power to drive to the shop instead of having to tow.
 

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You really cannot trust dealers and send your car there w/o expecting to spend a ton of money. They don't work for customers' best interest. The plugs on these cars can be changed fairly easily just by yourself. If you have never changed it, the plug should be changed no-brainer because it is something you have to do anyway. Maintenance item. The valve adjustment seems to the icing on the cake for the dealer.
 

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As for a battery, if you are thinking of changing it out.

Costco has the best price that can't be beat.
 

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I think if it were my vehicle, I'd start by replacing the battery. It seems to be a trend with newer cars that when the battery starts to go all kinds of weird electrical things start to happen. Years ago, the battery was known to be bad only when the engine would crank slowly or not at all. Not so much anymore. My thought is that the dealer diagnosis might be correct and you may need plugs and a valve adjustment, but that may also have nothing to do with the issues you are experiencing with the warning lights.
 

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My dealership has a bad habit of fixing the symptoms first instead of the cause. When my alternator was going out on my RDX causing low power, warning lights, and slow starts, the dealership wanted to replace my Interstate battery instead of troubleshooting further to determine it was a dying alternator. Went to Interstate battery since I was under warranty and they figured out it was the alternator for free in under 5 minutes.

My dealership saw dirty build-up around my RDX power steering pump and recommended replacement pump. I pressure wash the area last February to see where and how much oil is leaking and it hasn't shown signs of build up yet.
 

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So I replaced the plugs, Disconnected the battery. Started car all lights are off ran like a champ . Took it for test drive after about 10 minutes lights came back on and seem to be running a little rough at a stop sign. Seems like an intermittent issue. Not really sure why adjusting the valves would make things better. Any thoughts?
 

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So I replaced the plugs, Disconnected the battery. Started car all lights are off ran like a champ . Took it for test drive after about 10 minutes lights came back on and seem to be running a little rough at a stop sign. Seems like an intermittent issue. Not really sure why adjusting the valves would make things better. Any thoughts?


Check your EGR. Remove the EGR see if a carbon got stuck like this in this picture



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So I replaced the plugs, Disconnected the battery. Started car all lights are off ran like a champ . Took it for test drive after about 10 minutes lights came back on and seem to be running a little rough at a stop sign. Seems like an intermittent issue. Not really sure why adjusting the valves would make things better. Any thoughts?
If it is still only one fixed cylinder (#6) misfire, there are many choices.
1. Check whether it will spark. Even if new plug, if the coil/wire is bad, it is still a problem.
2. Check that fuel injector.
3. The cylinder lost compression (very unlikely)
Basically, that cylinder can suck air, not sure about how much fuel it gets, not sure about how much compression, not sure it definitely gets spark. So check those three items.

Also you can check long-term fuel ratio to see whether you have a too lean or too rich condition in general. But this is not specific to one cylinder. If it is a random misfire for other cylinders, then it is a different issue.
 
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